Engine removal?????

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plskthompson1

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Okay, I need some help from the masters. I know a few of you here have removed and replaced the engines in your wings, now it's time to help a brother out. :beg:

I want to pull the engine and see what the problem is before I decided to replace or rebuild her. I know it's gonna cost me less to replace the engine than to find a new bike, and I really like my wing, but I don't know for sure that the engine that is making so much noise couldn't be rebuilt for less than the cost of finding a good replacement engine.

So, I need step by step, like I'm 2yrs old, to help me pull the engine out.

Thanks ahead of time.

P.S. Pics would be nice if you've got them.
 
I'v had my motor out.
but I didnt get any pics.
its not as hard as I thought it would be...
I'd say start with sidecovers tank skin and take the battery out.
if you have floorboards, engine gaurds, lower fairing covers, lower cowle or extra lights and such, remove those.
I'd probly drain coolant, and start removeing the carbs and intake.
theres a circlip{snapring} that holds the driveshaft on the output shaft its kinda a bugger to get right, I didnt have much trouble getting it off... but its worth buying a new one. and you'll want to have the right snapring pliers to put the new one on..
also the rubber boot that covers the circlip .. mine was torn and I had to get one on ebay.
next I'd get the horns,radiator,and fan off and out of the way.
unhook the ignition/charging wires and you should be down to just mounts holding the motor in.
the top front mount is a bit tricky for me to get out, but after that your down very close.
next thing I can think of would be the footpegs and the bottom frame rail on the left side of the bike..
I might be wrong... but I think at this point the motor is ready to slide out. comes out the left side of the bike with a short wiggle..
and for me it was light enough to handle on my own.. but safer to have a helping hand!

ok guys I probly forgot something... chime in
 
jim pretty much covered it ....engine removal class dosnt get ant better than having to do it.....grting the drive shaft loose is big

everything else is pay attension to how you do it so you know how to put it back.......
 
Jim hit it pretty good. Start at the top and work your way down! :smilie_happy:
When removing the carbs, I slide my gas tank back 1" because for some reason, my carbs get hung up on the vacuum advance and cannot clear the frame. Slide the tank back and they pop right out. I do remove the #1 and #3 intake pipes and sliders before sliding out the carbs. Technically, you can leave them on the engine since you are pulling the whole thing, but I always pull them to avoid complications and cut down on the weight. (Of course, I had my 12 year old daughter as my helper on this last engine install and I had to give her a break somewhere. I didn't want her to have to spot the engine with the carbs on it. Her skills are good, but she is a little shakey with that much weight!)

I also remove the top bolts and radiator shroud over the engine before the bottom bolts. To get to the shaft seal, pull the rubber boot back as far as you can and shine a flashlight in first to see the circlip on the drive universal at the trans. If you cannot see it right away, turn the back wheel slowly while looking in to spot where the circlip opens. This will help when you try to remove it. You have to use 90 degree tips to reach the clip and remove it. I found getting it out easier than going in! When going in, I put a spot of grease on the shaft to help hold it in place while I moved it into position for locking it in.
 
I had mine out in less than 45 min.Put a floor jack under it and after everything is unbolted,roll it out the left side.I pulled mine with the carbs in place.It`s easier than you`d think,you`ll be suprised.
 
Thompson, Do you have a manual? I believe all 3 of the manuals have a section for engine removal.
It will help ALOT to read through that.

The guys forgot to mention, remove the left frame removable section.

When I need just the engine out I unbolt the carbs from the heads and bungy them up tight.

The driveshaft clip was my worst nightmare before I got one of these.

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I think the timing belt covers must come off for the engine to go down and clear the frame.

Other than that, just start removing the parts that are in the way till the engine is out.
Label the wires and parts as needed and take lots of pics!
 
just so you know im currently putting in a 1200 motor in my 1000 and going tohave to work some things out to do this but it dosent seem to bad to me so you might want to consider this also as and option for your bike ......im pretty confident in the projects success and outcome....... :read: :laptop: :read: :builder: :mrgreen:
 
Ok, I understand about the snap ring on the drive shaft, now here's my next dumb question. Am I going to have to pull the bags and rear wheel, or can that all stay in place?

My dad's boss had him call me the other day about working on his 1100. He's "leaking water across the front of the engine." I told him he probably needed a new water pump and qouted $500 including parts to do it. Haven't heard back from him yet, but he said he may decide to sale it, depending on the price of the repair. I'm keeping my fingers crosses that he decides to sale it cheap, and I can pick it up and start riding again with just another water pump.

But I plan on rebuilding this one still, just because I've already put so much into it.
 
Good to hear. I remember how much of a pita the bags were to put on, I really don't want to do that again any time soon if I don't have to.
 

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