finished valve stem seals timing belts and more

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who444444

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With good advice from this forum and also others I decided to replace my old valve stem seals.
I was only going to do the seals and nothing else so I did just that and when finished started bike to make sure all was good.
I took off rocker assembly and used a harbor freight 10 dollar valve spring compressor and left the cams in place.
You do have to remove the left side back cam shield bolt that fastens to the rocker assembly. You can do this through one of the holes in the cam gear.
This went pretty smooth , however when looking at my cam belts I decided to go ahead and replace them, and might as well do the cam seals also.
cam seals I got from napa for under 8 bucks each. Belts I got online, gates belts for half the price of napa belts, with delivery in less than 48 hrs.
Pulled cam gears and plate behind gears ( yes after already removing plate bolt the hard way for removing rocker assembly and then reinstalling rocker assembly) and replaced seals. As I had just adjusted my valves after installing valve stem seals and realized how easy it was I decided to use a tip I read about for changing the belts. And that was to back off the valve adjusters all the way.This allowed me to easily deal with the right cam belt and I could just move the gear by hand to get it in the right spot and aligned. Also used the trick of after adjusting tensioner for left belt rotating crank 360 before adjusting right tensioner. Of course this is after both belts are installed . Worked excellent. Used the alternate after-market parts listed on this forum (thanks dan ) for belts, cam seals, radiator hose and radiator cap. All good numbers.
I would rather ride than work on bike but these things needed done and really the parts were pretty inexpensive. Might have to deal with radiator issues but not yet. :beg:
Of course after all that I am still getting some blue smoke under high rev deceleration that I had hoped the valve stem seals would stop. But peace of mind with new belts and seals is nice and with new single carb , it's time to just ride it.
Thanks for reading my ramblings,
dave
 
41,200mi. or so. blue smoke mostly when deceleration from 6000+ rpm not when cruising around 4 or 5000.
Not terrible but kinda bugs me. oh well
dave
 
blue smoke on deceleration is an indicator of wear in the valve stem seals. BMW's are or were prone to this problem. The deceleration causes quite a vacumme in the heads which in turn will suck oil down the valve stem. No real harm other than chokeing the driver behind.
 
that was the main reason I put valve stem seals in I just don't know if it helped enough or not yet. Just have to ride it more to make a good decision.
Dave
 
It may simply be that previous owners never revved over 4-5K. So the motor has to break in a bit to accommodate the higher revs you prefer.
 
I've had the bike most of its life but it also sat for most of its life for various reasons.
With single carb on it I now am putting much more frequent miles on it. Plus running it harder than ever before. ('cause it's fun )
I used to probably keep in the 3000 to 5000 rpm range in days past. I don't red line it but I do run it up pretty high playing with secondary of 2 barrel carb.
So everyones' response is quite possible for this situation. Not going to panic or worry much more for now, will run some atf (good idea )
and monitor for changes.
dave
 
Any engne that has sat staionary for a time, 6-12 months will be very stickey inside and is quite probable that your rings arn't quite sealing properly one possable solution to try is to remove the plugs, squirt some ot loads but some WD40 into the cylinders and let it soak also you can use an adative that would go inth gas to lubricate the upper cylinder area.
Years ago I had a Jensen Healy I was told by Jeff Healy the designer that you need to regulary remove the airbox from the Deloto 45 DCOE's and squirt some cylinder head cleaner into the throats one at a time while the engine was running. If I remember right I used STP , don't do it near your house as it will issue a smoke screen enough to hide a battle ship. Trouble is on the honda you cant do it one carb at a time. so increae the revs to stop it from causing the engine to stop.
 
ATF in the fuel will have the same effect...just keep running some tanks through and hopefully everything will free up.
 

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