Hello,
I posted the following as a reply to BigAndrew, plskthompson1, and Omega Man concerning leaking fork seals. Dan saw this and asked me to repost it here. Don't be afraid to replace those fork seals, it's not too hard. Anyway, here's the post (I've edited it a bit for brevity:
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Oh man, the fork seals are pretty easy to replace. After messing mine up by installing them upside down, I have it pretty well down pat. Here's what I posted on goldwingdocs.com concerning the forks. There's a link in here too, with pictures:
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I've replaced the seals on my GL1100. It's not that hard of a job, but if you're replacing the seals, I would go ahead and replace the bushings as well (1 sleeve and and 1 bushing on each fork). I bought mine from mrcycles.com. They have a microfiche there you can use to look up parts for your bike. It's the same microfiche they'll use at the dealer.
The part number for the bushing is 51414-463-003, and the part number for the sleeve is 51415-463-003.
While you're at it, there are a couple of o-rings on the hose at the top of the forks. I would replace them too. I just found a couple that fit I had lying around and used them. If needed, there are 0-rings at the for the caps at the top of the for forks as well. I don't have the part number for those (I'm too lazy to look them up again) but they're on the microfiche as wellNo problems. Again, it's not that difficult if you're familiar with your toolbox! ~~
Shoot, while you're at it, might as well slap some progressive springs in there as well. You won't have to run air in the front shocks anymore, unless you want to, and they'll only set you back about $80 or so shipped to your door.
I believe I'm an expert at it now {still snickering after that one} since I've replaced the seals on the right fork 2 times (after installing the first replacement seal upside down) and the seal on the left fork one time, replaced the bushings in both forks, and installed progressive springs. It took me about 3 hours from start to finish. I probably could have finished a little quicker, but had to make a couple runs to the hardware store for tools and pvc pipe.
Here's a link to the instructions I used:
https://www.kichline.com/chuck/GoldWing/ ... efault.htm
I lifted my bike with a floor jack, and put a car stand under each engine guard close to the front of the bike. Nice and solid, and you shouldn't have to strap the bike up like his instructions say.
He says you don't have to pull the forks in his instructions, but I think it's easier with the forks off, plus once you have the tire and fender off, the forks come off the bike pretty easy, Loosen 4 bolts (1 on the upper part of the triple tree, 2 on the bottom, and one where the fairing weight mounts to the fork tube). Make sure you put the seal in with the writing on the seal facing the top of the tube. It will leak like a sieve if you put it in upside down. Tap it down easy with pvc pipe. I lubed my seals with ATF to help with the installation.
Good Luck!
I posted the following as a reply to BigAndrew, plskthompson1, and Omega Man concerning leaking fork seals. Dan saw this and asked me to repost it here. Don't be afraid to replace those fork seals, it's not too hard. Anyway, here's the post (I've edited it a bit for brevity:
~~~~~~~~~~~
Oh man, the fork seals are pretty easy to replace. After messing mine up by installing them upside down, I have it pretty well down pat. Here's what I posted on goldwingdocs.com concerning the forks. There's a link in here too, with pictures:
~~~~~~~~~~~
I've replaced the seals on my GL1100. It's not that hard of a job, but if you're replacing the seals, I would go ahead and replace the bushings as well (1 sleeve and and 1 bushing on each fork). I bought mine from mrcycles.com. They have a microfiche there you can use to look up parts for your bike. It's the same microfiche they'll use at the dealer.
The part number for the bushing is 51414-463-003, and the part number for the sleeve is 51415-463-003.
While you're at it, there are a couple of o-rings on the hose at the top of the forks. I would replace them too. I just found a couple that fit I had lying around and used them. If needed, there are 0-rings at the for the caps at the top of the for forks as well. I don't have the part number for those (I'm too lazy to look them up again) but they're on the microfiche as wellNo problems. Again, it's not that difficult if you're familiar with your toolbox! ~~
Shoot, while you're at it, might as well slap some progressive springs in there as well. You won't have to run air in the front shocks anymore, unless you want to, and they'll only set you back about $80 or so shipped to your door.
I believe I'm an expert at it now {still snickering after that one} since I've replaced the seals on the right fork 2 times (after installing the first replacement seal upside down) and the seal on the left fork one time, replaced the bushings in both forks, and installed progressive springs. It took me about 3 hours from start to finish. I probably could have finished a little quicker, but had to make a couple runs to the hardware store for tools and pvc pipe.
Here's a link to the instructions I used:
https://www.kichline.com/chuck/GoldWing/ ... efault.htm
I lifted my bike with a floor jack, and put a car stand under each engine guard close to the front of the bike. Nice and solid, and you shouldn't have to strap the bike up like his instructions say.
He says you don't have to pull the forks in his instructions, but I think it's easier with the forks off, plus once you have the tire and fender off, the forks come off the bike pretty easy, Loosen 4 bolts (1 on the upper part of the triple tree, 2 on the bottom, and one where the fairing weight mounts to the fork tube). Make sure you put the seal in with the writing on the seal facing the top of the tube. It will leak like a sieve if you put it in upside down. Tap it down easy with pvc pipe. I lubed my seals with ATF to help with the installation.
Good Luck!
