Gl1100 Engine swap advice

[kerryb]

So I've got the engines out of the frames. Both are 1983 1100's. The younger one going into the tour bike has valve job, new belts, full randakks kit, some new paint. Now that I have access to the rest of it I'll clean the oil pickup screen, but what else should I check so pulling the engine doesn't have to happen again soon, (cause it is just SO many loose pieces)!
p.s. the alternator plug looks great, should I still solder the connections anyway?

 

[joedrum]

sounding good

 

[slabghost]

Just be sure that alt plug is clean and connects tight and lube with dielectric grease. I can't think of anything else to check just now.

 

[kerryb]

Good, I'm excited to try out my one-finger adjust air-mixture screws

 

[RBG]

Water pump is the weep hole clean? ..does the impeller in wiggle?, fuel pump weep hole is it clean, new timing belts?, check drive shaft knuckle for wear,

 

[dan filipi]

Might be good to pull the clutch plates out and soak them in oil, especially if it's been sitting for years. Good time to check them and the special ring condition for loose rivots, check the clutch basket too for any grooving. No fun to do clutch after engine is in frame.
I had a lot of clutch trouble once when the scavenger pump got plugged so I would pull the back cover to check it.

 

[Denver]

Dump that damper plate. :good: :read: N G W tells how :salute:

 

[brianinpa]

dan filipi » Thu Nov 12, 2015 3:44 pm[/url]":2cck44qt]
Might be good to pull the clutch plates out and soak them in oil, especially if it's been sitting for years. Good time to check them and the special ring condition for loose rivots, check the clutch basket too for any grooving. No fun to do clutch after engine is in frame.
I had a lot of clutch trouble once when the scavenger pump got plugged so I would pull the back cover to check it.

And if you go this far, it wouldn't hurt to hone the edges of the clutch basket also to smooth out any rough edges.

 

[chilidawg]

kerryb » Thu Nov 12, 2015 12:25 pm[/url]":27s56pzp]
should I still solder the connections anyway?

Yes. Absolutely. Yes, you should, can I be any more plain, thank you!!!! :rtfm:

 

[kerryb]

Holy ####, I didn't see this for a couple days! Spent yesterday prepping the other engine, thinking the swap would be completed soon. Now I've got tons more to do!!!. Well I did make a little squeegee to wipe the sludge off the bottom of the case, not much at all so that's good news. It's got a new water pump and new belts. I gotta go find out what a damper plate is,???, and is a shaft knuckle the same as a u-joint or different name for the drive splines? Maybe I should start a build thread to keep track off all this stuff.
I'm runnin out of places to put removed parts!

 

[bronko37]

Dont forget to grease the muffler bearings and bleed the flux capacitor.... :smilie_happy:

 

[AApple]

Might as well be prepared to replace the blinker fluid while yer at it... :hihihi:

BlinkFluid

• AApple
• May 16, 2013

I plan on doing similar "maintenance" to mine this winter. Not replacing the engine, but pulling it and doin some cleanin, re-sealing, and replacing the heads. I'm soooooo looking forward to that....not... :builder:

 

[kerryb]

Ahh, you say that now, but just think of all the warm fluids you get to deal with and the insidious rust that tries to hide from your prying gaze. You know you would rather be doing that than sitting in some leather chair watching the tube! Oh wait...do you have a warm place to work...never mind.

I've decided to go the organic route with my blinkers on this one,...hand signals!

 

[kerryb]

Got the clutch cover off, then it took a while to make the tools to get the clutch nut off :read: I used the picture in the manual and guessed at what I couldn't see.
So now I have the clutch apart...found the damper plate...and need help interpreting what I see. So here's pictures for you to comment on.
The rivets in the damper plate show signs of just a little wear. My damper plates both have teeth on them...do I still need to replace the plate? the write-up on ngw "Bin that damper plate" is a little unclear when they mention the upgrade.

Is that discoloration on the plain plate or just old oil stains?

All I see is small wear marks on the basket. Does it really need to come out this time around?

I've only done one clutch in a cb550 and am nervous about messing with this one if there is still plenty of life in it.
Thanks in advance for your comments, suggestions, and fun snide remarks :thanks:

 

[Denver]

Nice use of old pieces of this & that to make a tool, :good: welders sure are a handy thing to have around. :yes:

 

[joedrum]

i cant really help here ive never had a bad clutch on a oldwing ....the tool you made loooks great

 

[dan filipi]

It all looks fine to me.

 

[dan filipi]

I was looking at the pics on my phone before, that clutch plate looks a bit flakey on the larger computer screen.
I would probably replace them.

 

[kerryb]

Dan, Are you referring to the friction plate. The disc with the radial slots in it? I will measure those later tonight, but the surface looks to be in the pretty good shape compared to other clutches I have seen. Before taking the pic I wiped the oil off it.

Denver, If you can scare up a used mig welder, its not too hard to learn. I'm a little rusty right now my usual welds are a little better. I have a Lincoln 110volt machine that does nice work.

 

[Denver]

Love my Lincoln :yes: