GL1100 Tip:When replacing the water pump and the front cover is off, check the coolant bypass port.

[dan filipi]

When I first tore my 1100 down I found it had overheated badly and had a blown head gasket.

I replaced the head gasket but it still ran warm.
After further investigation I found the water pump bearings were shot. It also dripped some from the weep hole so I tore it down to replace it.

When I had the front end apart I decided to replace the thermostat.
When I had the pump housing off I checked all the passages to make sure they were clear.
I noticed one passage the manuals say nothing about.
This passage runs from the front of the water pump thru the pump housing, up thru the block, finally to the base of the thermostat housing.
It's purpose is to maintain a flow of coolant in the engine before the thermostat opens.

coolant passage lower

• dan filipi
• Jan 30, 2010

This is the back side of the cover >

rear of cover coolant passage

• dan filipi
• Jan 30, 2010

When I blew compressed air into this passage it was almost as if the passage was a dead end but I could hear air coming out the thermostat housing.
After pulling the tstat housing off I found the circled port almost completely clogged shut.
This picture was taken after I cleared it.

coolantpassage

• dan filipi
• Jan 30, 2010

tstattube

• dan filipi
• Jan 30, 2010

I suspect this passage being clogged had something to do with the overheating condition which blew the head gasket.

 

[Montecman]

Good Info, Thanks!

 

[westgl]

Great Info Dan,

That Sounds Like a bike I have, everything was replaced, I thought it would be running very cool, or the typical semi cold blooded wing, but My bike is running a little cooler and takes a little longer to warm.

I will try this as it does not seem to run as cool as i would like it to.

I hope that is it.

 

[westgl]

I thought i would post the cooling system flow sheet

 

[dan filipi]

Flow path is a great thing to know.
Thanks for posting it.

 

[carl62cycles]

Flow path is a great thing to know.
Thanks for posting it.

Also thank you Dan for bringing up the subject :hi: :hi: :hi: .

 

[dan filipi]

It's found a permanent home in the Gallery Tech References.

(click for larger image)

Cooling System 4cyl Goldwing 001

• dan filipi
• Jun 18, 2014

 

[joedrum]

:mrgreen: cool can see it big enough now great

 

[shierh]

I have the same clogged cooing passage. I am having a very difficult time getting it cleared. Problem is the 90 degree bends. cant get probe in there.
i have a clear tube inserted into top of the block with ospho in it and have rodded the hold out as far is it can go. The blockage is around a corner

In the cover the same thing, have it partially unblocked but it isnt flowing properly. 2 90's so cant get a real tool in there. Have some leader wire but its too thin to do much good even doubled over.

Any suggestions?

 

[dan filipi]

All I can think of is soak it good with wd 40 or similar, let it creep in to soften the blockage and keep rodding it.
Compressed air will help to blow bits out as you go.

 

[AApple]

A short(8"-9") section of old speedo cable in a drill will work, if ya have one. Basically a mini roto-rooter. Try boiling it(the housing...not the cable) in hot water first, but wear some gloves! :mrgreen:

 

[shierh]

No spare cable but thats good idea.
I was going to drill out the weld plug and clean it out then jb weld the hole shut

 

[AApple]

How 'bout a bass guitar string? Happen to have some of those laying around? :music2:
You may have to drill the plug out and go in that way. Whatever it takes, eh? :good:

 

[slabghost]

Try some Calcium Lime Rust remover. AKA CLR.