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CRAFTMAN6001

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78,GL1000 dyna-s 1995 model. Coils 1978 stock piggie back resistor.(Issues) I'm going to be length in this . complete carburetor over hall, Installation, same Issues. replaced carburetors same 771A over hall, same issues. Issues as followed.

Cold start. to warm up (first warm start) Idle @ 1000 smooth,@ house no load. Bike Idle to operating temp climb, rpm tends to get erratic before thermostat open temp. Opening temp operating under no load, Bike starts to miss fire on 2 cylinders. (NO CROSS PIPE) MISSING 1ON LEFT 1ON RITE. Unsure if it is front two or rear two.

Bike fully warmed up cycled thermostat, Engine missing to stall. Restart Idle rpm floats. 1000, 950, 1100, stall.

Driving.clear weather (FROM COLD START TO OPERATING TEMP)

Acceleration from idle to 1000 to 3000 in first gear shifting to 2 gear and so on. No lag no hesitation. In 4 gear twist fully open, bike responds.

Driving. (OPERATING TEMP) clear weather.

(where things get strange) RPM climbing from 3000 to 5000. There is a moment, at start of RPM climb to 5000 where there is (slow) power acceleration. Anything above this range 5000 RPM or more seems to be operating normal. Example. Hold throttle fully open (any gear) consistent torque, In RPM range above 5000

Weather. If this bike gets WET, forget it.
All issues above are intensified 100 fold. No idle what so ever must hold throttle above 3 grand and float the clutch to take off.

RESEARCH. I read all there is to read on dyna. I have read on how to test the Ballast on the coils. I an also going to replace the dyna back to points. to eliminate the dyna pickup. I have read that there is an (intermittent) in this pickups whit heat. Also it is way cheaper for me rite now..

I feel this is not a carburetor issue, with the replacements of carburetors, I spent an extreme amount of time cleaning, checking slides for any drag. Being that this happens intermittent, I dont fell that they are the Issue. there is no sign of fuel leaking into the air chamber. they dont load up while idling. One other thing I will say. There was this one time I was riding on the hwy and got an extreme amount of fuel smell. while this was happening I twisted the throttle to full with no response. pulled over it died . restarted it ran fine , (with listed issues above).


SOMETHING NEW. BUT NOT ALL THE TIME
Now when I ride this bike Bike fully warmed up cycled thermostat, Engine missing to stall. continue throttle twist (like pumping the gas to clear or keep it running. Only from take off then listed Issues above.


I hope this is plenty to go on. I've had this bike awhile. I enjoy it, it hasent left me stranded. I'm confident in my ability's to work on it. I'm good at what I do. BUT this leads me into a direction that I am brain locked. Being that I've spent so much time in the fuel delivery, an not so much on the electrical. I've also read these bikes can be tricky when it comes to the electrical. So I feel that by going back to the beginning of what was firing this bike. that would be the safest bet. IE-default mode. my user name is my email @gmail if you would like to send me one and have a chat on the phone. I wish my dad was here to help me but he is not.. This bike is my only out to a means of happyness with my life, with my wife. My to favorite loves in life. ANY comments or a email would be cool if you dont mind going over something like this.. thanks so much..
 
Sounds to me like ignition is getting weak for some reason or maybe the choke on the carbs isn't opening fully. Do you still have the points ignition to try? Have you looked at the plugs? Are they wet, black? Are you getting smoke from the exhaust? If so what color?
 
the key sentence was in rain or moisture forget it ... your coils are stock 78 coils and the wires are permently install like non replaceable ..there shot for one .. why it wont run in the rain ... two wires means ends are probably not up to par and totally corroded also ... things like this lead to dyna failure from resitance heat changing the valves of the system ......sheesh the entire iggy sysrem is shot from it aged and needs total revamp ..id say ... it is best to deal with it that way ... in this system there are many weak points ... oldwings will suffer many hugely and still go .. but it takes wide scoop repair to get it back to normal ... and many things to consider ... there are some threads here that speak of all the problems today with the stock setup that been one of the oldwings weak spot when they were new
 
+1
C5 would be money well spent if you are going to hang on to your bike. It will pay for itself over the years with fuel savings and peace of mind.
 
I'd go after the ignition, plug caps, wires.

When you smelled the gas, any chance you took a look down the carb throat? Sticking float needle will dump gas into the plenum.
While running at home, look down into the plenum. There should be no gas at all in there.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=110130#p110130:2xp1tein said:
joedrum » Thu Feb 13, 2014 5:08 pm[/url]":2xp1tein]
the key sentence was in rain or moisture forget it ... your coils are stock 78 coils and the wires are permently install like non replaceable ..there shot for one .. why it wont run in the rain ... two wires means ends are probably not up to par and totally corroded also ... things like this lead to dyna failure from resitance heat changing the valves of the system ......sheesh the entire iggy sysrem is shot from it aged and needs total revamp ..id say ... it is best to deal with it that way ... in this system there are many weak points ... oldwings will suffer many hugely and still go .. but it takes wide scoop repair to get it back to normal ... and many things to consider ... there are some threads here that speak of all the problems today with the stock setup that been one of the oldwings weak spot when they were new
Yup rite there. I ordered a old new timing advancer with points plate and rotor button with bolt washer spacer and cover plate. By this valuable information reply, coils are a must.

I'll take a look at the points coming with the kit, see what they look like. I read what to look for in the forms that stated a ballast (when its failing the points) electrical failure weak what it dose to the surface of the points.. Something I can see. And replace the coils along with it.

And you are correct In saying they keep going. Coils covered case closed.. :music:
 
hmmm I see your finding out that coils is a issue of quite a bit of friction and no info or part ...it is a issue of no parts and a complete lack of path around it ....but there is always ... no matter what coils you pick to use ... final resitance is 5ohms ...

but this is where the info and best solutions for points are https://sohc4shop.com/catalog/index.php? ... rers_id=12

read his stuff well its the best I know of and not slanted
 

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