Hi I'm another new old guy!!

shop deals on amazon
Advertise with us
Shop deals on ebay
Classic Goldwings

Help Support Classic Goldwings:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
thewhiterhino

thewhiterhino

Well-known member
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2009
Messages
304
Reaction score
0
Location
Pueblo, Colorado
I am new to the forum and new to goldwings. I recently traded a car for my 1983 Aspencade.
It has 69,000 miles on it and needs some attention, but is in good shape for a 26 year old bike.

In the past I have had many bikes starting in 1960. Ducati, Suzuki, Triumph 650, Triumph 500, Kawasaki 500 Mach III, BMW R75/7 and in 1992 I went bike-less until now.

I have been a mechanic/repairman/handyman my whole life and so will do the fix-up myself.

I have no idea about what has been done in the past so would like to take appropriate measures to ensure reliability and safety.

How long should the belts and water pump last?
How about a good source for fuel lines and brake lines?

It is good to find a forum of classic guys riding classic goldwings.
 
I'm new here too , but I'd like to welcome you to the group , It' so nice to chat with folks who have some of the same ideas as we do. Hope to read your posts , and maybe even meet some of you folks sometime. again Welcome to the group.
 
Welcome to the CGW Forums, Ross!! :clapping: :clapping: :clapping:
If you don't have a history on the 'Wing, it is suggested to change the timing belts right off, since ya never know when they may fail, especially if they've not been changed. Some suggest doing the water pump at the same time, and it's a good idea to do that. At 69,000, it would be wise to get those things done. ;)
There were some threads on parts suppliers, but they got lost in the "crash". Members are posting those links/info back now, so there should be some good leads on parts in the "Vendor" forum.

Welcome to Classic Goldwings, and enjoy the ride! :mrgreen:
 
Welcome Ross.

Yes do the belts. This engine is zero interference so if a belt brakes the result is never pretty.

Check the water pump first for play in the shaft bearing by removing the pump cover and see if the impeller will wiggle at all.
A very slight "feel" in movement is normal, any more then change it.

Here we have links to suppliers and Here you can download manuals.

Good luck with it, any help give us a shout.
 
Although I like fast acceleration and such I like the comfort better so my past favorite was the BMW.
The Kawasaki was scary fast but miserable over the long haul. The reliability is a big factor with me also or I could get a Harley :mrgreen: Ok, it was a joke. :smilie_happy:
I enjoy the maintenance but when I decide, not on the side of the road.
I guess I had about 35,000 miles on the BMW when I sold it.
Today I discovered what appears to be a radiator leak, but the radiator appears repairable to me, unlike the plastic and aluminum ones on the cars today. Is that true?
 
I agree with ya... I perfer comfort over a really fast uncomfortable sport bike, Plus im too big for em, Everybody makes fun of me, There like Ha Ha, Big Guy, Little bike... :Awe:
 
The radiator is all copper so it's repairable.

I had a tiny leak in the core a couple years ago and put in a 1/2 tube of Almuaseal.
It stopped the leak and hasnt returned even after having flushed the system a couple times.
 
dan filipi":1qmbj5yh said:
The radiator is all copper so it's repairable.

I had a tiny leak in the core a couple years ago and put in a 1/2 tube of Almuaseal.
It stopped the leak and hasnt returned even after having flushed the system a couple times.
Click to expand...

I'll remove mine and look at the condition in conjunction with the new belts and brakes etc :builder: I want to be ready by spring.
Thanks for the reply
 
You also may want to go thru the connectorsd on the battery, starter soleniod, and starter.. cleen all connectors nice and bright, coat with dielectric grease, and check the three yellow wires near the battery for discoloration/burned looks,,, and may want to mod this into a connectorless group.. cut connector out, slide on heat shrink up out of the way, and solder the wires straight through and then pull the heat shrink down and cover them.. BTW welcome from North TEXAS
 
Joep":1e6fvmea said:
You also may want to go thru the connectorsd on the battery, starter soleniod, and starter.. cleen all connectors nice and bright, coat with dielectric grease, and check the three yellow wires near the battery for discoloration/burned looks,,, and may want to mod this into a connectorless group.. cut connector out, slide on heat shrink up out of the way, and solder the wires straight through and then pull the heat shrink down and cover them.. BTW welcome from North TEXAS
Click to expand...


Thanks for the heads up on the electrical connections. I have read some about three wires from the alternator and suspect that a poor connection would probably lead to a premature fallure of the stator.
Thanks again :laptop:
 
Glad to have you whiterhineo and sledge this is a great place to be if you own a goldwing these guys know their stuff.. And are a great inspiration to all .. So again welcome from wis. :music:
 
I really appreciate the warm welcome from everyone, and I enjoy having access to all the information about reliability and service information.
I know the forum will help the winter pass and encourage me to get the projects done for next springs riding.

My list includes:
brakes
belts
radiator leak
check water pump and thermostat
adjust valves
eliminate alternator connector
New tires
Multiple fairing cracks
Change oil and filter (Amsoil)
Find exhaust leaks
Can anyone think of anything else to do or check on a bike that I have no history on?

Merry Christmas to everyone and may God Bless.
 
Other things to check:

1. Final drive splines clean and lube with Moly 60 paste.
2. Give a 1/2 dozen pumps of regular grease into grease fitting by the final drive.
3. Change final drive gear oil.
4. Those same 3 yellow wires have been known to overheat at the regulator plug.
5. Check every nut and bolt on the bike is tight.
6. Lube cables.
 
dan filipi":2zegxz9s said:
Other things to check:

1. Final drive splines clean and lube with Moly 60 paste.
2. Give a 1/2 dozen pumps of regular grease into grease fitting by the final drive.
3. Change final drive gear oil.
4. Those same 3 yellow wires have been known to overheat at the regulator plug.
5. Check every nut and bolt on the bike is tight.
6. Lube cables.
Click to expand...


I certainly appreciate all the help, Now my work is cut out for me.
The good news is I'll be ready for spring. :music:
 
dan filipi":25njf0ju said:
Welcome Ross.

Yes do the belts. This engine is zero interference so if a belt brakes the result is never pretty.

Check the water pump first for play in the shaft bearing by removing the pump cover and see if the impeller will wiggle at all.
A very slight "feel" in movement is normal, any more then change it.

Good luck with it, any help give us a shout.
Click to expand...

Got her torn down and found the left hand belt was loose, not touching the tensioner, the oil filter was so dirty it was collapsed in some and the water pump has play in it. Got the new belts on and am currently waiting on the water pump and gaskets.
 

Latest posts

Top