If I understand the charging ssytem right..

[zman]

I have 300 watts to play with but decreasing the power consumtion from 280 to 250 or less will not nessisarily benifit my charging system because it dumps excess to ground. Am I understanding what I am reading correctly?
Thanks.

 

[dan filipi]

That is my understanding.

 

[zman]

dan filipi » Mon Sep 16, 2013 10:09 am[/url]":3a46nual]
That is my understanding.

Great!...I`ll just call it quits with the LED`s.

 

[Ansimp]

Unless you change to a Mofset regulator/rectifier

 

[zman]

Ansimp » Tue Sep 17, 2013 2:54 am[/url]":1o7t97f5]
Unless you change to a Mofset regulator/rectifier

Something new?. I`m on google looking .1000&1200 use the same RR as 1100?
OK I found this SHINDENGEN type universal then a bunch of others that SHINDENGEN warns me not to buy cause they are made in China... SHINDENGEN sure sounds Chinese to me.
Price seems fair at 129 or so.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-MOTOR ... 8d&vxp=mtr

 

[Ansimp]

Mofset off late model (05-06) cbr600 etc

 

[zman]

Ansimp » Wed Sep 18, 2013 1:36 am[/url]":17v4uy1u]
Mofset off late model (05-06) cbr600 etc

Great!..I guess I have been out of the loop too long, Ive been more involved in Permanent Magnet and capacitors not so much in alternator/battery type systems.
From what I have found it can be any RR with the FH part number, the black is abandoned and the 2 reds tied together, two greens tied together then both installed in the apropriate 2 wire output of the new Mosfet RR.

 

[Ansimp]

:good: :clapping:

 

[brianinpa]

zman » Mon Sep 16, 2013 12:07 pm[/url]":1umueg7x]
I have 300 watts to play with but decreasing the power consumtion from 280 to 250 or less will not nessisarily benifit my charging system because it dumps excess to ground. Am I understanding what I am reading correctly?
Thanks.

Is that 300 watts or amps??? If it is watts, how many watts are there in a 1056 and 1057 light bulb and how do you put a watt rating to a stereo. I am considering a light bar and do not want to overdo it. :Awe:

 

[joedrum]

im not good here but if this is suppose to only draw when needed ....how dose it switch stator on and off ...if it don't do that and the stator dosent shunt to ground .. where dose the heat go ... seems its traped in stator.....seems like that would be bad ... im sure I must be missing something here ... id like to be set strait by someone

 

[Ansimp]

There is no real heat in the stator windings except the engine heat. When you pass the ac current through the rectifier you then generate some heat depending on the load. The main heat that is generated at the rectifier/ regulator is when excess current is sunk to ground to prevent over charging of the battery. The regulator/rectifier is designed to take this heat and dissipate it through the heat sink. The less load the hotter the heat sink. If you use a Mofset regulator/ rectifier it switches on and off the ac from the stator to regulate the voltage. The stator does not run at full output as it does with the original rectifier/regulator. The heat that you have all seen at the stator plugs is caused by arcing across a bad connection which generates heat like an arc welder does thus melting the plugs. The charge circuit is 300 watts which is 25amps (300w/12v = 25a). In real terms it is more like 20 amps when you use a higher charging voltage of 15. A 21w incandescent bulb uses 1.5 amps at 14 volts (21w/14v= 1.5a)

 

[joedrum]

well ok id say if that's great it dose turn the sator on and off as battery requires ... so the heat is never generated ...great it sounds wonderful to me then ... ive never looked into this big as ive been doing other things ... sounds great to me then ... thanks for I nice short version easy to understand

 

[Ansimp]

It is only an advantage if we reduce the electrical load on the system first.

 

[mcgovern61]

Ansimp » Thu Sep 19, 2013 7:32 am[/url]":1q8x66u3]
It is only an advantage if we reduce the electrical load on the system first.

I second that!

The current stator and R/R is designed for the original load as the bike was delivered. Some 30 years later, these electrical systems have held up real well. But, they will not last forever and the age (and corrosion) on all of the connectors will degrade the system. My '82 is a Standard. The only additional item added since delivery is the Vetter fairing with the Cycle Sound radio (which I of course have installed a modern system). Granted I have swapped engines, but the current engine has it's original stator and everything else electrical is OEM. When I restored the bike from it's suspended state of decay, I did clean every connection. (I did make one mistake connecting the ground to the frame on a freshly painted section.....gotta have that metal to metal contact! ).

I have been very happy with the performance of the system.

 

[kirbb9]

Ansimp, I'm trying to understand here. If I have it right the ac current is produced by the magnets
on the stator passing by the coils. Wouldn't it be creating current any time the engine is turning?
The system would shunt to ground and the benefit is the rr not operating continuously and creating
a little less heat?

Love the info,Brady

 

[kirbb9]

And I said that all wrong. The rotor has magnets and spins with the engine. The stator is
fixed in the engine cover. I think that's what I meant to say.

Brady

 

[Ansimp]

Yes and Yes. But if you have a bike with extra incandescent lights and accessories you probably don't have any spare output to sink to ground or switch off with a Mofset rr.

 

[kirbb9]

So all extra current would sink to ground. It's not possible to switch off alternator output?

Brady

 

[Ansimp]

If you use a late model Mofset rr which is what that does. Please read the previous posts as I tried to give a full rundown on the charging systems outputs etc.