Ignition coil theory

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After a night's sleep... the name I was trying to remember: Russ Phelon. He had a small company that developed aftermarket ignitions for racing outboards. He invented the combination stator/regulator/rectifier arrangement that Mercury, and later, most motorcycle manufacturers adopted.

I think CL125A has two phase ACG. And the stock only got celenium rectifier (not sure that regulates the voltage by nature or not.)

You're probably correct. There's not 'rule' of man or physics that demands the PMG have any number of 'phases', but the more phases, and the more bridge rectifier elements, the lower the resulting AC Ripple becomes (because one phase dropping off is being 'filled in' by the next one picking up. In the CL125, as with most motorcycles under 350cc or so, the stators are wound to be able to generate JUST ENOUGH power to keep the headlight, taillight, and ignition going, and not charge the battery more than an ampere or two.

By the way, the Selenium Rectifier, if still present, is a problem. Selenium rectifiers are the bridge between VACUUM rectifiers, and Silicon rectifiers. They were first made in 1933... and became pretty much standard for 'medium load' rectification until eclipsed by the silicon rectifier. Selenium rectifiers were much smaller, simpler, and tougher than a vacuum tube rectifier system, but they were not as 'fast' in switching AC... they have a higher 'forward voltage' than a vacuum tube rectifier, so they're a bit lossy (and in radio receivers, a bit noisy), but the bad part, is that, regardless of wether you use them or not, they degrade chemically inside, and eventually, they fail... and when they do, they can short internally OR open circuit.

SO... if yours HAD (or HAS) a selenium rectifier... you may have some stator coil damage.

There are plenty of modern China-made "6V regulator/rectifier" for CL125A so I bought one. With that, the charging voltage goes from less than 6V at idle to 10V at 6K RPM (with 25W incandescent head light and whatver wattage tail light on). Do you think that was the result of some sort of voltage regulation?

Yeah... thats not right. it should provide whatever output the coils generate UP TO the rect/reg's setpoint, at which it should limit voltage at that point. The proper charge voltage for a 6v lead-acid battery should be around 7.3v... 7.7 would be a bit on the high side of charging, but not out of reach... but 10v tells me that either the reg isn't clamping, or theres some sort of resistance in the reg/rect's return (ground) connection. A 'floating' ground results in lack of proper voltage reference, because voltage drop over that resistance causes a rise in reference voltage, like biasing a transistor, or resistance in the cathode of a plate-modulated tube amp causing forward bias.

Here's a great example- Every once'na a while, I'll build a regulated supply that needs say... 1 amp at 13.2v. Instead of using an LM317, some zener diodes, resistors, and capacitors, and an output transistor, I'll just use a 7812 3-pin regulator chip, and instead of tying the ground leg straight to ground, I'll put TWO diodes (1n4001s) in series from that pin, to ground... and with 0.6v drop across each silicon, that 'floats' the 7812's voltage reference up by 1.2v, yielding... 13.2v.

This is actually exactly what I did in my CX500's temp gauge 8V regulator... I used an LM7805, and floated it up to 8v with 5 diodes in series.

... I noticed the battery voltage was lower than 7V at crusing RPM (5K maybe) so I switched off the head light. (The voltage went up to 7.7V) When I got home and hooked up the battery tender, it showed it was charging the battery. ...Then I installed an LED head bulb. With that, the volatge is around 7V at idle and reaches and stays at 7.7V above idle RPM but haven't gone for a test ride yet.

My gut here, is that your DC-DC is not 'starting up' until after it gets substantially above some threshold... and that it may be consuming about as much power as waste... as it is putting out. I say this, because the SMPSs that drive the LED systems in my overhead signs do just that (they don't kick on 'till a certain level) and they're power-hungry pigs... for a 35w LED array, they take in almost 60w! If you put your SMPS on a bench, and turn a bench supply on to 7.7, does it kick on? If so, how much current surge does it draw on initial 'charge up'? They're capacitive input, that's why wall-warts 'pop' every time you plug 'em into the wall now (and also the reason why they fry at the least suggestion of lightning).

Dirty secret, by the way... if you apply AC to the input of most DC-DC converters... they'll still 'work', because the FIRST thing that happens to incoming AC power, is that it goes through a full wave bridge, to charge the input capacitors... but they're NOISY... so if you use a DC-DC in say... a radio or telecom circuit, it barfs hash-noise BACKWARDS (right through the bridge rectifier and caps) into the power supply of whatever you're using it IN... and it generates all sorts of ugly interference in the radio/telecom circuit...
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=221199#p221199:2znlm487 said:
DaveKamp » Sun Feb 21, 2021 11:12 am[/url]":2znlm487]
SO... if yours HAD (or HAS) a selenium rectifier... you may have some stator coil damage.
Stock CL125A had selenium rectifier. When I bought mine, it came with some sort of aftermarket. Now I put brand-new China rectifier.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=221199#p221199:2znlm487 said:
DaveKamp » Sun Feb 21, 2021 11:12 am[/url]":2znlm487]
Yeah... thats not right. it should provide whatever output the coils generate UP TO the rect/reg's setpoint, at which it should limit voltage at that point.
That's why I suspect that it is just a rectifier. I found a post in Honda Twins forum which describes the same readings. So I think it's Chinese false advertisement.

This is the one I bought:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/6V-6-VOLT-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=221199#p221199:2znlm487 said:
DaveKamp » Sun Feb 21, 2021 11:12 am[/url]":2znlm487]
The proper charge voltage for a 6v lead-acid battery should be around 7.3v... 7.7 would be a bit on the high side of charging, but not out of reach...
I know 7.3V is typical charging volatge for 6V battery but this particular battery I bought says 7.7V so I just use the value.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=221199#p221199:2znlm487 said:
DaveKamp » Sun Feb 21, 2021 11:12 am[/url]":2znlm487]
My gut here, is that your DC-DC is not 'starting up' until after it gets substantially above some threshold... and that it may be consuming about as much power as waste... as it is putting out.
This is the one I am using:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-CC-C...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

It appears to be constant voltage, constant current. There are trimmers for voltage and current output adjustment.
I didn't touch current adjustment but measured current as is. It was around 1 amp. I guess I need to adjust it for more current if the tender still charges the battery after the next test ride.
 
Hmmm...

hmmm....

:headscratch:


:read:

:headscratch:


Okay, so... (Queso?!?!)

You got the CL125 secondhand, and at that time it DIDN'T have the OEM selenium...
Was there a production series that did NOT use a selenium? If SO, was yours one of them?

Let's assume that it was originally a selenium, and let's say the selenium failed at some point... and a previous owner replaced it with some alternate component...

When the selenium fails, it can fail open, or shorted. Neither is particularly good- shorted puts lots of heat through the stator, which aint' good for the stator windings' insulation... and when open, the stator voltage swings wildly, which ain't good for the winding insulaton either.

What it kinda sounds like, is that mebbie your stator has a short in SOME of the windings... that brings the output voltage down, but not enough to totally wipe it. The new regulators may be TRYING to work, but the windings' state (intermittant short) may be causing so much instability that they can't respond appropriately amidst the inter-winding short.

I've never worked on a CL125 (but I'd like to have one!) How hard is that stator to get to?

I'd suggest trying an insulation test with a megger, but I BELIEVE that stator is grounded on one end, so a megger wouldn't tell you anything.
 
My CL125A came with lots of non-stock/modified parts. Rectifier, ignition coil and even wire harness.

This is the coil. LOL
DSCN0345.JPG

Unknown source Rectifier/(regulator?) on the right.
DSCN0344.JPG

Need no explanation. LOL
DSCN0343.JPG

I bought used stock harness and selenium rectifier (orange) from eBay for my restoration.
DSCN0556.JPG

The stock selenium rectifier was there since then and I put 2000 miles on it (might have swapped back to unknown rectifier from time to time, don't remember.) During that time, the battery died once but no ill effects like this time (simply replacing the dead battery was enough.)
I wasn't paying much attention to the charging voltage but at least the battery tender didn't go into charging state after the rides.

When the battery failed the last time (October 2020), stock selenium rectifier was there.

I guess there is a way to check ACG winding. I will consult the shop manual.
 
Yeah, that selenium was probably shorted in the stack, and sending a high amount of AC into the battery. Hard on batteries... please don't put one back in...

I'll admit, I've seen worse wiring harnesses, but that one certainly looks like good competition. Motorcycle electrics from that era, if they fare any better than automotive of same vintage, it's only because they were stored inside, out of UV for much of it.
 

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