loose rear wheel bearing bore

[skiri251]

'82 GL1100A

I must confess I decided not to see it..

When I changed rear wheel bearings, I noticed drive shaft side bore was worn loose. I could remove the old bearing by hand and put new one in without hammer. There were screw driver marks around. I guess PO tried to tighten up the bearing but it didn't work.

Now, what should I do? Buy another wheel from eBay, JB weld, or just ride?

I can feel the rear wheel movement when I push/pull the wheel sideways while the bike is on the center stand. I don't know if it's normal.

 

[mcgovern61]

I would not ride! The excess side play on the wheel will transmit that vibration through the driveshaft into the transmission and ultimately the engine. These bikes are tough, but something like that can become catastrophic, not a good thing on two wheels! :shock:

 

[joedrum]

as gerry says this is not good .....and as you said either e-bay or alocal salvage yard get whatever it takes to to make it right ....waiting only going to make the parts more scarce and harder to find these are old bikes .....ive guess your sure its not the swingarm loose a common problem with loose rear wheel feel ....chassy jacking is the only down side to shaft drive that can cause a lot of side to side torque on the swingarm that can work them loose.... :mrgreen:

 

[skiri251]

It's not the swing arm. I checked it without the wheel and there was no play.
So there shouldn't be any play at the rear wheel.

Is there any way to repair it?
If not JB Weld, those liquid aluminum kind of stuff (maybe just a marketing name for epoxy)?

 

[dan filipi]

There should be zero side to side movement in the wheel.
I wouldn't ride it until that's fixed.
I wonder if a slightly oversized bearing could be fitted?

 

[skiri251]

Oversized bearing. That's an idea. Thanks.

I measured what I have. OD=47mm, ID=20mm, Width=14mm. Is that the spec?
I guess OD=48mm would do the job.

 

[toytender01]

:read: there is another posability.....If you know a good machinest or shop they can build the surface yp them mill it back to stock... if you provide a new berring they can make it fit..However some shops are out of sight and maybe this is only a last resort....Bob :beg: :head bang: :fiddle: :help: :sensored: :sensored: :sensored:

 

[skiri251]

Thanks Bob.

I thought about it too. I know a local shop I use to have my home built sidecar frames welded. I once asked him to machine BSA front wheel brake drum. It costed $120. For that price, I can buy nice used wheel on eBay, I think.

So for now, oversized bearing is my hope. Again I have a local source so I will call him tomorrow.

 

[toytender01]

yah i thouth that was probably the case .... i sometimes forget because when I worked for UNCLE i had access to machine shops that would do side jobs...so I got great support...I miss it now :beg: :beg: Good luck...Bob

 

[skiri251]

Update.

I called my bearing guy. Unfortunately the next size up in OD is way bigger than 48mm.
But he told me about a product called "Loctite Press Fit Repair".

A quick googling yielded:

"Loctite 660 Quick Metal® is a creamy, non-running adhesive/sealant. Repairs worn machine parts and restores correct fit to mating assemblies. Fills gaps up to 0.020 inch diametral clearance."

He said lots of people used it with good results. I ordered one ($8.54) online.
Hopefully this will do the job.

By the way, the name of my bearing source is CBR Bearing Co. (www.cbrbearing.com)
He has been very helpful. According to him, JB Weld also seems to do the job. But this Loctite stuff hardens under pressure so I guess it's easier to use.

 

[mcgovern61]

Update.

I called my bearing guy. Unfortunately the next size up in OD is way bigger than 48mm.
But he told me about a product called "Loctite Press Fit Repair".

A quick googling yielded:

"Loctite 660 Quick Metal® is a creamy, non-running adhesive/sealant. Repairs worn machine parts and restores correct fit to mating assemblies. Fills gaps up to 0.020 inch diametral clearance."

He said lots of people used it with good results. I ordered one ($8.54) online.
Hopefully this will do the job.

By the way, the name of my bearing source is CBR Bearing Co. (https://www.cbrbearing.com)
He has been very helpful. According to him, JB Weld also seems to do the job. But this Loctite stuff hardens under pressure so I guess it's easier to use.

Be absolutely sure the bearing is centered or it will wobble permemantly! :whip:

 

[skiri251]

Thanks.
I will attach the rear wheel as soon as I put the bearing in and tighten up the axle.

 

[skiri251]

Another update:

"PressFitRepair" failed.
I bought a wheel from eBay and installed. All is good now.

 

[AApple]

:crying: Bummer....
It was worth a shot, tho, eh?

 

[skiri251]

:crying: Bummer....
It was worth a shot, tho, eh?

Yes. At least it didn't cost me much.
Don't know why it failed. I thought the gap was well within the advertised 0.010".

The only thing is this eBay wheel's appearance is worse than the previous.
Oh well, I will try JB Weld then... Nah

 

[dan filipi]

Good to know what will and will not work, sorry it was at your expense.

Thanks for the update.

 

[skiri251]

Good to know what will and will not work, sorry it was at your expense.

Thanks for the update.

No problem.
It's only $20 or so.