Need a hand again!

[mcgovern61]

Follow where this connector was sitting. Your green/black wire in this picture is bent and crushed. It is a positive wire and may be making contact with the frame.

 

[GTC@MSAC]

Joe is correct about these connectors being a pain at times. When they have a poor connection, they will definitely over heat and melt just like picture shows. The connection will need repair, but the circuit overload will also have to be corrected, or the melting and burning wire will just re-occur at the next weakest point in the circuit. The overload itself is the cause of burnt and melted connection points such as these.
This still goes on today in modern cars that have bad blower fan motors and resistors. I repair and replace about a dozen every year, and they will melt, char, and burn just as badly as a 30 year old connector plug. Ford headlight switches in the 1980's were notorious for doing this all the time, and worse yet, Ford did not put a fuse in the circuit, so the trucks and cars would actually catch fire and burn to the ground on account of this. There are even notable cases of death caused by these events. One woman was actually accused of lighting her car on fire with her children strapped in the back, at the scene of an unwitnessed crash scene. Until the "fire investigator" was made aware of the Ford Headlight switch defect, she was being held on charges of 1st degree murder. Charges were dropped when it was determined that the "gasoline trails" on the driver's carpet were actually lines left by the meting wire harness insulation.

People who don't regularly repair common car issues are completely clueless about how poorly some things are still being manufactured to this very day. Tesla has a list of defects a mile long and a related death toll over a dozen, and they still have yet to be held accountable for anything.

 

[TheRepoGuy]

Left field - the fan isn’t working at all. Tried to Hotwire it directly to the battery and she’s not spinning.

Finding an OE replacement looks easy but wondering about a newer slim style electric fan. Has anyone adapted a newer style to their bike??


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[GTC@MSAC]

I would go with factory if at all possible. That way you have the correct, amperage, speed, and durability specific to the bike. Universal fans usually only mount with zipties threaded through the radiator, and that's just playing with matches, lol!

 

[TheRepoGuy]

I would go with factory if at all possible. That way you have the correct, amperage, speed, and durability specific to the bike. Universal fans usually only mount with zipties threaded through the radiator, and that's just playing with matches, lol!

Quite literally - that smell of melted plastic just is oh so thrilling [emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787]


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[Ansimp]

Nothing wrong with the plugs unless the connectors/terminals get tired. The biggest problems are accessories etc overloading the system. The stock electrical system is well balanced but increasing the current(bigger fuse) is the same as adding accessories. The Rats Nest is A1 electrically in my opinion. The only mod that I want to do is provide a relay activated accessory circuit to the Vetter that will reduce voltage drop by not running through the ignition switch and fuse box. I may also provide relays for the headlight circuit which will also reduce all the switch loads. Even with all the extra Vetter lights I have reduced my total electrical load by using LEDs and a 35w HID headlight bulb which when it fails will be replaced with a 12/24w LED to further reduce loads.

 

[saganaga]

Ansimp » Yesterday, 8:59 pm[/url]":iul9m2u8]
Nothing wrong with the plugs unless the connectors/terminals get tired. The biggest problems are accessories etc overloading the system. The stock electrical system is well balanced but increasing the current(bigger fuse) is the same as adding accessories. The Rats Nest is A1 electrically in my opinion. The only mod that I want to do is provide a relay activated accessory circuit to the Vetter that will reduce voltage drop by not running through the ignition switch and fuse box. I may also provide relays for the headlight circuit which will also reduce all the switch loads. Even with all the extra Vetter lights I have reduced my total electrical load by using LEDs and a 35w HID headlight bulb which when it fails will be replaced with a 12/24w LED to further reduce loads.

One thing I've been trying to do with my motorcycles is have dielectric grease when I pull apart fittings.

I'm not going to go through the whole bike and redo all the fittings, but when I'm working on something, I clean up the terminals and then add grease before reconnecting.

 

[Ansimp]

saganaga » Sun Sep 01, 2019 4:40 am[/url]":2w93lvnp]

Ansimp » Yesterday, 8:59 pm[/url]":2w93lvnp]
Nothing wrong with the plugs unless the connectors/terminals get tired. The biggest problems are accessories etc overloading the system. The stock electrical system is well balanced but increasing the current(bigger fuse) is the same as adding accessories. The Rats Nest is A1 electrically in my opinion. The only mod that I want to do is provide a relay activated accessory circuit to the Vetter that will reduce voltage drop by not running through the ignition switch and fuse box. I may also provide relays for the headlight circuit which will also reduce all the switch loads. Even with all the extra Vetter lights I have reduced my total electrical load by using LEDs and a 35w HID headlight bulb which when it fails will be replaced with a 12/24w LED to further reduce loads.

:good:

One thing I've been trying to do with my motorcycles is have dielectric grease when I pull apart fittings.

I'm not going to go through the whole bike and redo all the fittings, but when I'm working on something, I clean up the terminals and then add grease before reconnecting.

 

[Tom_Charlton]

GTC@MSAC » Thu Aug 29, 2019 1:39 pm[/url]":45388din]
Universal fans usually only mount with zipties threaded through the radiator, and that's just playing with matches, lol!

I cut 4 steel strips to hold the external radiator fan, since I removed the OEM fan to make room for the external alternator. See pic.

There is at least 1" clearance between the fan and the front fender. Yes, the picture is sideways (lean left to view).