Newbie with questions 1200 GL

Advertise with us
Shop deals on ebay
shop deals on amazon
Classic Goldwings

Help Support Classic Goldwings:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
F

F5guy

Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2013
Messages
15
Reaction score
0
Location
Annapolis MD
Picked up a cherry 86 GL Interstate last week with 38k. This bike has been garage kept and well maintained. The fellow I bought it from only sold it since he has 4 other bikes including a 2001 wing and doesn't ride this one enough and felt it needed a new home. My primary issue is one of it being extremely cold blooded. I have to warm up with choke for 3-5 min or it really is a problem getting going (sputtering). After that it's very jumpy and sluggish under 3k rpm and has some pops coming from carb area under the false tank. If I give it the gas it really jumps and pulls great. Im thinking low idle jets? The owner told me it just needs to be ridden and should clear out since it sat a lot the past couple years. Once it's hot after riding the problem is much less but still evident. I watched a number of videos and read the same amount or articles on balancing carbs and will look for vacuum leaks too. All the pipes warm at the same time so I ruled out coils. I used BP gas on the first tank and found Shell 94 octane for this tank. I've been riding every night and running carbs dry before parking and thinking about adding some sea foam in but not sure how much? I use the stuff on my cars directly in vacuum lines and it works great. I also thought about dousing with carb cleaner but afraid it might be too corrrosive. Then again there is ATF but from what I read it's more for performance and not cleaning. I'd like to go slow before I consider a rebuilding the carbs and just wonder what you guys think.

The other thing I noticed at first is the bike was almost shutting down every time I used the turns signals and other hand controls at first but the more I use them the issue seemed to disappear. On my first ride the bike stalled and no lights so I thought it was an ignition (key) or loose battery cable but then it just stared again and haven't had a problem since.

Last night I got bold and really wound it up and the thing flies,what a strong motor. I got it out on the highway and gave it the old highway tuneup cruising at 5000-6000rpm hoping it would clear out.

The other thing that bugs me is it really doesn't return to idle quickly so I've had to shift if like an old harley being very patient between shifts especially in first gear. This could be how its geared but i have no reference.

As a side note this bike has progressive springs, changed timing belts and motor oil is super clean since he was a stickler for changing fluids so I'm really not concerned about abuse or other problems internally.

I hope I didn't drop to much on you guys just looking for some guidance before I jump the gun and tear into the carbs or,something silly. Here is the course I plan and appreciate any additional insight:
1. Ride ride ride
2. additive to gas
3. Check for vacuum leaks
4. Balance carbs
5. Unplug electrical connections> dilectric>replug (can you point where to start)
6. Ride some more

Thank you in advance
 
OK first if the bike was not ridden much the past couple of years, it needs to be ridden. Put 8oz of ATF in each tank of gas. riding will also lossen up the clutch. If in fact the bike was properly maintained, it needs to be properly exercised and it will get better as time goes by. be patient and don't rush into a maintenance program that may not be needed. Enjoy the ride :Egyptian: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: Things to check are the stator wires under the left side cover(shifter side), If the plastic plug is still there, the plug should be removed and the wires soldered together. Others will provide more advice soon
 
Left that out stator wires soldered which was my first indication that the bike was taken care of and the owner was knowledgeable, thank you for the suggestion.
 
hello f5guy, welcome to CGW. all 1200 wings are cold blooded, like to be reved, like 2500 or more rpms. atf or seafoam in the gas could clean out the carbs. depending on how long the bike sat the battery may need charging causing the bike to cut off with the turn signals on, low voltage
 
be sure the air filter and box are clean an on properly. 1200 has constant velocity carbs and they don't like too much air.
+1 again on using 6-8 oz of ATF in the fuel. It is a very good cleaner but takes time to do it's job gently. Many carb cleaners are not good with seals so it's good you held that idea off. Welcome to the fun and forums.
 
Well it just sounds like you have a 1200 that has gotten to be a bit too much like me... fat and lazy. Time to get the kick-stand up and get it some exercise. You mentioned the ignition: they can develope a dead spot but are easily repaired by opening them up and using some emory cloth on all the contacts and applying some new dielectric grease.
 
Yeah, check the airbox! Critters just LOVE to build nests there. They will do it quicker than you think. I put wire mesh over the intake horn. I like Seafoam to clean (1/2 can in FULL tank), but it is harsh. I've been successful with Techron at recommended strength for maintaining the carbs. Check ALL electrical connections particularly grounds!). Even on a well-maintained, oft-ridden bike, they need cleaning and tightening occasionally. Also, highway tuneups are often a way to make things so bad a failure occurs making more work and expense than necessary. Still, riding it will improve the carbs and clutch with time.

Sent from my LePanII using Tapatalk 2
 
Well in my haste I went to my stash and added 8 oz. of ATF to a full tank. As I was riding it dawned on me my Ams ATF is synthetic. We'll see how it responds- no real difference in my 30 mile ride so I'll try to ride the current tank out ASAP to see if this issue will settle down. Any petro experts out there who care to weigh in ?
 
Thank you, I've never wanted to get through a couple tanks of fuel so fast. Happy it's cooled down here and the moon is full. I'll keep you posted.
 
took about 6 or 7 tanks of fuel with 8oz. ATF to get the stutter out of my 1200, now i run the ATF to keep it that way. I put a full quart in my Escape and gain 3-4 mpg.
 
Another help is non-alky gas. Most areas have a little still available - at a premium price. High octane will just load you with carbon in GL engines.

Sent from my LePanII using Tapatalk 2
 
update: I took the air filter off and it has a K&N, it looked like air was leaking in around the bottom where there was some greasy buildup so i cleaned the area and re-installed. I really don't think I like the setup and gonna go back to OEM. The K&N has some kind of sponge gasket that sits at the bottom and its kind of strange the way it sits in there.
I've read people are happier with the paper ones anyway. The good news is the popping is gone and low idle start ups are smoother:) Can someone tell me where to buy OEM parts online, I need fuel, air and oil filters?
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=90198#p90198:3fj7kkyc said:
F5guy » Thu Jul 25, 2013 11:30 am[/url]":3fj7kkyc]
update: I took the air filter off and it has a K&N, it looked like air was leaking in around the bottom where there was some greasy buildup so i cleaned the area and re-installed. I really don't think I like the setup and gonna go back to OEM. The K&N has some kind of sponge gasket that sits at the bottom and its kind of strange the way it sits in there.
I've read people are happier with the paper ones anyway. The good news is the popping is gone and low idle start ups are smoother:) Can someone tell me where to buy OEM parts online, I need fuel, air and oil filters?
Click to expand...
You can run into this with the K&N. My K&N fit the same way until I made some minor adjustments. Bottom line, the intake noise with the K&N was too much for me so I went back to OEM paper filter. Much quieter and runs fine.
 

Latest posts

Top