Rear Air shocks leaking...

[AApple]

Well...it was bound to happen sooner or later. :roll: I rebuilt my rear shocks in 2009, and back in November of last year, I noticed some erl on the left side of the swing arm...shock is leaking. SO...I guess surviving 5 years ain't bad, for something I did. :hihihi: Just sux that I have to rip this thing back apart, and do new seals again. This will also be a good time to re-thread the upper shock studs on the frame, so I can install the nuts on them....assuming I can find someone that has them. :blush:
Oh well...it's only time and money, right? :mrgreen:

Just ordered parts from cheapcycleparts....they were about $30 cheaper than bike bandit. Now...let's see if they actually HAVE the stuff.... :beg:

 

[Omega Man]

What about the seal mate tool that cleans crap out from behind leaking but undamaged seals, would that work in this application?

~O~

Naw....I don't think that would work on the rear shocks....I'm pretty sure the seal is just bad on mine....it's leaking too much to be a minor thing. :head bang:

Not sure how many miles I've put on it since then, but I do know I put more oil in them than what Progressive said to use. I think a couple months ago when I had my brainfart mishap, it bottom out pretty bad, and I think that's what popped the seal. It only started leaking after that happened. :fiddle:

 

[mcgovern61]

I would be curious about how many miles have been put on the bike since you rebuilt the shocks. Mine are OEM '82 that sat out side deflated in the weather for 12 years.

 

[AApple]

What about the seal mate tool that cleans crap out from behind leaking but undamaged seals, would that work in this application?

~O~

Naw....I don't think that would work on the rear shocks....I'm pretty sure the seal is just bad on mine....it's leaking too much to be a minor thing. :head bang:

Not sure how many miles I've put on it since then, but I do know I put more oil in them than what Progressive said to use. I think a couple months ago when I had my brainfart mishap, it bottom out pretty bad, and I think that's what popped the seal. It only started leaking after that happened. :fiddle:

 

[Denver]

Did you change dampers? as you probably know the progressives are sealed & charged from the factory, & only want 2 oz of oil. Wonder how it would hurt anything as long as you didn't over do factory's spec's on oil even if you did replace the dampers. If you over fill what factory says on oil, to try to help with the performance on stock, guess you shorten the life expectancy of your seals. opcorn: :wave:

 

[AApple]

Did not replace the dampers, just the springs....and seals. If the oil is overfull, and the shocks bottom hard, we all know that liquids do NOT compress. With too much oil, and no place to go, it would have to find the path of least resistance, in this case, the seals.
Don't really know what caused this one shock to start leaking, but I do know it started leaking after my little mishap a few months back. :blush:

Anyway...the parts arrived today! New seals, upper & lower bushing inserts, and new accordion "booties" to keep the dirt/muck out. Gunna be far too cold to ride this week, so I'll start tearing it down prolly tomorrow evening....at least, that's the plan. :whistling:

While I've got it down, I'll attempt to re-thread the upper shock mounting studs on the frame. When I tore it apart last time to do the shocks, the nuts that hold the saddlebag mounts/upper shock end were stripped on both sides. I can re-thread the studs on the frame, but the problem will be the nuts. They are acorn nuts, with a shoulder....#20 in the parts diagram below. I don't think I can get a tap to run all the way down inside these nuts, so I am looking for a couple of them, if anyone happens to have a few spares they would like to sell.... :blush: I have checked with the "usual" parts suppliers I use, but NONE list them, or stock them. If I can't find some good ones, I'll just have to use a regular nut....which is most likely better than nothing at all...which is hows it's been since 2009. :whistling:

GL1100 80-83 Parts Manual Page 196

• WindNWing
• Oct 29, 2012

 

[Denver]

Flat bottom tap WILL cut to bottom of acorn nut. Acorn nuts are great if available! But those nuts that won't back off, & have resistance going on, cant remember proper name of em'.., also work well.

 

[slabghost]

I'd prefer the nylon self locking nuts and cover them for appearance.

 

[backlander]

Seems like the upper shock nuts on a 1200 have a shoulder on them,Maybe you could find some metric or standard chrome lug nuts like used on mag wheels, the right length that would fit the 1100 by checking at a tire or wheel shop. Just a thought

 

[Denver]

self locking with washer

 

[flash2002]

You can always get something like this, they have them on E-Bay or auto parts. M10x1.25

 

[AApple]

backlander » Tue Feb 03, 2015 3:16 pm[/url]":2hl1y532]
Seems like the upper shock nuts on a 1200 have a shoulder on them...

Yup...these do also. The shoulder fits up inside of the saddlebag brackets to center/hold it on both sides, and then it tightens the whole shootin match up. :good: I grab them and take them to werk tomorrow, and see if my taps will fix them up. :thanks: