Hi all so I am going to repaint my side panels, anyone have an easy way of removing the transfers or is it going to be a case of rubbing them down to get them off.
Ian
Ian
Repaint the side pannels
- Thread starter ianstaley
- Start date
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slabghost
Well-known member
By "transfers" you mean decals or striping tape? If so there are products for that in the auto parts stores. I personally prefer to use a safety razor blade to scrape them off. But you need to be very careful to get the angle just right or you get into the paint finish. Once that stuff is off a little solvent will remove the left over adhesive. Kerosene works well too.
No way is really easy Ian. Since you have to sand the surface to prep anyway wet sand them off. That's what I did when I repainted the 1200. I don't like putting petroleum products on surfaces I'm going to paint. That means extra work making sure you get it all off.
OP
OP
Humm, difficult choice, I have a special wheel that goes on a drill, it rubs off small decals or glues but these are bigger. I think I will be just rubbing down , start with 400 grit rather than a coarser grit, don't need to damage the surface.as for cleaning I use acetone unless what I am cleaning is fibreglass. Oaky guys off to bed for me. Catch you all later.
OP
OP
So just got my DA air sander out took about 5 minutes to do both, now to rub down by hand at 800-1000 grit ready for the sealer then primer. :BigGrin:
nothing like having the right tool and the hands to use it... 
opcorn:
opcorn:
Pics please opcorn:
opcorn:
OP
OP
Okay I will post some pics. Just painted the side panels with a plastic promoter.
When that dries I will use Abranet on a block 400 grit and then respray a second coat of plastic primer. Dry rub down same as before then I will use a light coloured primer filler.
Then comes the real work. 2 coats of sparkling silver undercoat. And the the Cherry black mixed in with the first clear top coat, two coats maybe three, then 5 coats of clear 4th and 5th coat wet. then leave to dry for about 3-4 days. Rubdown with 800 grit followed by 1000, 2000 and 3000. I f needed I will respray at 2000. and repeat from 2000 followed by the polish. I don't want any orange peel in the paint. Final thing will be fitting the badges.
This is only a preliminary thought here, I may do some pin striping or even air brushing. I haven't decided yet as I still don't have a name for the bike. If you like to make some offers check out the post My build another one" only 17 pages and counting. But you can see the colour that all the frame and ancillaries are.
Ian
When that dries I will use Abranet on a block 400 grit and then respray a second coat of plastic primer. Dry rub down same as before then I will use a light coloured primer filler.
Then comes the real work. 2 coats of sparkling silver undercoat. And the the Cherry black mixed in with the first clear top coat, two coats maybe three, then 5 coats of clear 4th and 5th coat wet. then leave to dry for about 3-4 days. Rubdown with 800 grit followed by 1000, 2000 and 3000. I f needed I will respray at 2000. and repeat from 2000 followed by the polish. I don't want any orange peel in the paint. Final thing will be fitting the badges.
This is only a preliminary thought here, I may do some pin striping or even air brushing. I haven't decided yet as I still don't have a name for the bike. If you like to make some offers check out the post My build another one" only 17 pages and counting. But you can see the colour that all the frame and ancillaries are.
Ian
Hey Ian, Oldwrench here. About the clear coat, I have done a lot of two and three stage painting. Don't go too many coats of clear coat especially on plastic. Two medium then wet sand, one final medium and then wet sand and polish, is what is recommended. If you get the clear coat too thick it can crack, ask me how I know. Also make sure you clear coat within 24 hours of spraying your base coat.
OP
OP
Some of the paint i will be using is house of kolour so might not need so many but it is in the build of the paint. but just done first rub down and waiting for a new block for my abranet which is great abrasive by the way. It is expensive but with an open structure doesn't clog as easily. I still haven't decided on a final colour yet, and I might even use crystal mask on it yet.
I will do one side panel first and see what I like the most, even the final colour isn't fixed yet. The only colour that is fixed is the frame and the ancillaries in the old English white or ivory colour. I like the crystal mask you can see what it looks like at this Y tube address, it is a bit long winded but it gives a great idea on how to use it and how it looks finished.
[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SFhdyyrMaBQ[/video]
I will do one side panel first and see what I like the most, even the final colour isn't fixed yet. The only colour that is fixed is the frame and the ancillaries in the old English white or ivory colour. I like the crystal mask you can see what it looks like at this Y tube address, it is a bit long winded but it gives a great idea on how to use it and how it looks finished.
[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SFhdyyrMaBQ[/video]
nice how to vid
OP
OP
There are is so much on U tube you can change your ideas 20 times a day. But I have been using a couple of air brushes to try and get some experience. I just love learning new skills. Why pay a guy 2-300 bucks (any currency you like) to do something that you can do your self. Just try it when it doesn't look good rip it off and do it again until it looks good.
It's the same with break callipers what colours can you have with Hi Temp paint, very few, but if you check out U tube, you can paint them any colour you like, just finish the job with VHT clear.
It's the same with break callipers what colours can you have with Hi Temp paint, very few, but if you check out U tube, you can paint them any colour you like, just finish the job with VHT clear.
