Time for a clutch replace?

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AApple

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Joined
Dec 3, 2009
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Location
Duncanville, Texas
My Bike Models
1981 GL1100 Innerstate("The Turd")SOLD!!, 1996 GL1500 Innerstate
Hey ya'll...
Imma tinkin the clutches in my '81 are prolly bout to bite the dust. Last winter, the last time I rode it, I felt a slippage once when shifting, but couldn't tell if the clutch was slipping, or if my big thick gloves were keeping me fingers from releasing the lever properly.
Anywho...yesterday when I got home, I felt a little shudder of sorts when pulling into the garage, so I'm pretty sure it's time to replace the clutches....which I prolly should've done over the winter. :Doh2:

Soooo....I was tinkin....I wonder if the clutches might be the same as the clutches for a regular Honda automatic transmission. I gots tons of those here. I know when I redid the rear shocks, the seals for those were the same as axle seals on Honda trannys, and now I'm hoping I might get lucky and have some clutches that will fit in my 'Wing.
Anyone have a clutch they can measure, and maybe take a pic of, so I could see??

And....just for fun, is there a particular place ya'll get your clutches from that is reliable?
I hate to have to tear into this thing now that the weather is turning nice, but it's my own fault. :crying:

btw...I will be cleaning the oil screen when I do this... :good:
 
:nea: :rtfm: :Doh2: :headscratch: :head bang: :head bang: :head bang: :swoon: :Awe: :cry: :crying: :Awe: :head bang: :head bang: :head bang: :( :rtfm: :rtfm: i guess its time to go to work now i feel better
 
That would be nice if the clutches were the same!

I'll get a picture and some measurements.

I've had mine shutter with different types of oil, slip too.
What oil are you running?

BTW, the 1100 clutch isn't large enough for this engine and weight of bike and WILL slip if shifting under a lot of power, also once they get hot they shutter. Mine will shutter after a lot of stop and go traffic especially riding 2 up.
 
Well s :sensored: t... :mad:
Looks like those are nothing like the Honda automotive clutch plates...dangit!
Oh well...it was worth a shot. Now to find a new set, and the time to rip into this thing. I'm hoping it can be done in a weekend, once I get the parts, the time, and the initiative... :blush: :mrgreen:
I'm using a 40wt Quaky State erl..

Thanx fer da pics, Dan. :eek:k:
 
Straight 40 or 10/40?
If it's automotive oil it may have friction modifiers which can make the clutch slip.

I would try 15/40 Rotella before condemning the clutch. Mine likes it.
 
Actually, I think it is 10/40.
And yep, the same erl I use in both the Cads.
I can certainly try the Rotella...that's much easier than pullin the clutch cover off, I assume.... :read:
 
AApple":2jkaiop5 said:
Actually, I think it is 10/40.
And yep, the same erl I use in both the Cads.
I can certainly try the Rotella...that's much easier than pullin the clutch cover off, I assume.... :read:

Joel, if you are going to change oil type on the possibility that it may be causing slipping (very possible) I would run a half a can of seafoam in with the old oil first to remove those slimey friction reducers. Run engine till hot and ride for about 10-20 minutes. Drain the oil and put in 3 quarts of the new oil with the old filter still on and run the engine til hot again. Drain that oil and change the filter. Now put in your new oil. This is the only way I know of to remove the friction modifiers and seafoam to get a clean start. It may take a few hundred miles for the clutch to stop slipping if it is caused by friction modifiers.
 
:eek: :heat:
Man!!!! You really want me to do some man-well labor!!! :smilie_happy: :mrgreen:
I needs to change the erl in this turd anyway. Now I just need to locate a source for the Seafoam local to me. We gots a Pep-Gurls right next door, so I'll run over there after lunch and see do they carry it.
Thanks for all the tips! :good:
 
gerry that sounds like the way to go , engine flush,oil change and possible cluch fix oh and some fun riding as part of the cure

apple the plan dosnt get much better than that
 
Yeah, but.....it's gonna git my hands derty.... :blush:
:smilie_happy:
 
AApple":1c9z9r9r said:
Yeah, but.....it's gonna git my hands derty.... :blush:
:smilie_happy:
Not here, that's what my twelve tear old daughter is for, learning how to change oil! :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy:
 
I agree somewhat with flushing the engine as long as cleaning the oil pick up screen is part of the process.
The reason for my thinking is the thick grunge on the bottom of the case will get stirred and broken up then could plug or at least restrict oil flow. I'm more less undecided if a flush is worth it for this reason. I think if running oil with the modifiers is the problem I would just change it and the filter then change again after a few hundred miles.
 
The Pep-Gurls next door actually had the Seafoam. And I do mean the Seafoam! They had ONE can on the shelf! :shock:
I need to get some anyhow, to run thru the fuel tank. :good:
I might just try an oil change or two to start with. I know with automatic trans clutches, if they have the wrong type of fluid, it takes several fluid changes to get the "wrong" fluid worked out of the friction material, before the "correct" fluid will actually soak into it.

I prolly need to pull the screen, too, since I'm sure it's prolly never been off/cleaned, so that would more or less be preventative maintenance. I guess I'm off to the cycle shop this weekend to get some filters!! :mrgreen:
 
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