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If they work part time I think it most likely is a switch issue. Why would you have to tear it down?
 
seat, false tank ,,, kinda a ,,, not fun. the cancel part always works,,, I've jacked with the ground in the fairing,, and when they don't work, they cancel the driving light that is on,,, the flasher unit must work like a lil motor? figure it just doesn't run every time,,, why I thought it might be it
 
or they cancel the light, on the bag and fairing for the/ rather than bringing the other filament on in the bulb like its supposed to,, just kills the power
 
Flasher units are not at all like motors. The stock flasher is simply a set of points with one contact held in place with a bimetallic spring. When power is applied the two metals in the spring heat at different rates and cause it to bend away from the contact. It then cools and pops back to the contact. The load of the lamps is what heats the spring.
Newer electronic flasher units do not require a load to function. They break the circuit to the lamps through an electronic circuit.
While it is easier to get to the flasher with the false tank of you should be able to reach it without removing it.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=161724#p161724:2ybfc6po said:
Trak » Thu Oct 22, 2015 3:55 am[/url]":2ybfc6po]
seat, false tank ,,, kinda a ,,, not fun. the cancel part always works,,, I've jacked with the ground in the fairing,, and when they don't work, they cancel the driving light that is on,,, the flasher unit must work like a lil motor? figure it just doesn't run every time,,, why I thought it might be it

The flasher is just a load sensitive circuit. In the old metal ones a bi metal strip heats up with the load and breaks the circuit ( flasher goes off) and as it cools it makes contact and lights the flasher. Electronic ones just duplicate this load sensing circuit. Ittermittent faults are either a faulty flasher or load circuit.
 
ok, thanx Ansimp. Previous owner has worked on it before,, I have it working now,, couldn't find a replacement on the net,,, called Honda,, they could get the original 52$ or a 16$ electronic,,, told them to get me the cheap one,, then he got telling how my female connector is probly not going to work,,, so,, kinda wishn I had spent the fifty,,, anyways,, might be here Friday,,, think I will just leave the bike down till then ,, rain tomorrow nite.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=161724#p161724:1ov4vkuc said:
Trak » Wed Oct 21, 2015 11:55 am[/url]":1ov4vkuc]
...and when they don't work, they cancel the driving light that is on,,,

WHUT? :headscratch: :headscratch:
The flasher shouldn't have anything to do with separate driving lights, unless the wiring in the fairing, or somewhere else is messed up....that's just weird! I'd be looking at how the driving lights are wired up.... :headscratch:
 
amber lights,, the flasher relay is jacked up,,, someone's been into it before,,, I can check the automotive to see if they have any signal relays with the same connection
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=161738#p161738:1wmjqcjs said:
Trak » Thu Oct 22, 2015 7:37 am[/url]":1wmjqcjs]
ok, thanx Ansimp. Previous owner has worked on it before,, I have it working now,, couldn't find a replacement on the net,,, called Honda,, they could get the original 52$ or a 16$ electronic,,, told them to get me the cheap one,, then he got telling how my female connector is probly not going to work,,, so,, kinda wishn I had spent the fifty,,, anyways,, might be here Friday,,, think I will just leave the bike down till then ,, rain tomorrow nite.

If need be you can make convertor wires from the original plug to the new flasher or just cut the plug off and use insulated female spades. Just check back for the wiring configuration so that you don't fry your new flasher :yes:
 

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