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I dont remember where I found this but thought someone might be able to use it.
Windshield restoration went something like this:
Wash thoroughly. You want to start with a clean windshield.
Wet sand any deep scratches or defects with 600 grit wet or dry using a soft foam backing block. You want something that will not allow transfer of finger pressure such that you create abnormalities in the surface. I used this same block for all grits. Sand in single direction, back and forth, top to bottom. No rotary/vibration stuff. Just short, straight strokes. Keep surface wet and rinse frequently. Move next to 1500 grit. I spent considerable time here - perhaps 20 or 30 minutes hand sanding. You want a very uniform surface when finished with micro scratches all uniform in appearance, same direction, etc. Move next to 2000 grit for final sanding. When you've removed the scratches from the 1500, it will begin to look clear when wet. Almost there.
I then buffed it out using my 7" chicago buffer/sander ($34 from Harbor Freight), wool pad, and el-cheapo Turtle Wax rubbing compound (liquid in bottle). When finished rubbing it out, I actually could have stopped here as it was soooo smooooth and clear however, being anal as I am, I proceeded to finish with a foam pad and Turtle Wax polishing compound. Smooth as glass! Wiped it down when finished with a microfiber cloth and applied some NewFinish.
Yep - crap off-the-shelf products maybe but man, if only you could see the results.
Be careful with a buffer if you've never used one. I'd suggest practicing on less important stock. I was once an auto body tech so am familiar with a buffer and the technique required.
Good luck. I use the same procedure to restore those damnable plastic headlights that oxidize and turn yellow.
Windshield restoration went something like this:
Wash thoroughly. You want to start with a clean windshield.
Wet sand any deep scratches or defects with 600 grit wet or dry using a soft foam backing block. You want something that will not allow transfer of finger pressure such that you create abnormalities in the surface. I used this same block for all grits. Sand in single direction, back and forth, top to bottom. No rotary/vibration stuff. Just short, straight strokes. Keep surface wet and rinse frequently. Move next to 1500 grit. I spent considerable time here - perhaps 20 or 30 minutes hand sanding. You want a very uniform surface when finished with micro scratches all uniform in appearance, same direction, etc. Move next to 2000 grit for final sanding. When you've removed the scratches from the 1500, it will begin to look clear when wet. Almost there.
I then buffed it out using my 7" chicago buffer/sander ($34 from Harbor Freight), wool pad, and el-cheapo Turtle Wax rubbing compound (liquid in bottle). When finished rubbing it out, I actually could have stopped here as it was soooo smooooth and clear however, being anal as I am, I proceeded to finish with a foam pad and Turtle Wax polishing compound. Smooth as glass! Wiped it down when finished with a microfiber cloth and applied some NewFinish.
Yep - crap off-the-shelf products maybe but man, if only you could see the results.
Be careful with a buffer if you've never used one. I'd suggest practicing on less important stock. I was once an auto body tech so am familiar with a buffer and the technique required.
Good luck. I use the same procedure to restore those damnable plastic headlights that oxidize and turn yellow.
oh2: :smilie_happy:
