y type 3 way wiring connector

Classic Goldwings

Help Support Classic Goldwings:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I use crimps all the time with more than one wire in them without purchasing special crimps ( blue can take 2 wires and yellow can take 4 wires)

The yellow's are for 10 ga wire, Blue normally 14 or 16, and red for 18 ga wire. Yellow's will not crimp 18 - 14 properly, also they were never designed for multiple wires even though many mechanics will use them for that purpose. There are many automotive specialty connectors out for multiple circuits, or splicing that work very well and are sealed.

Personally I prefer soldering and shrink tubing for a couple of reasons. Solder makes the best connection and shrink tubing seals the wiring and keeps moisture out.

Over the years I have seen way too many butt connectors corrode, and fail causing shorts. Reality is with a good soldering iron it is almost as fast as using butt connectors.

Now there are also butt connectors that also have shrink tubing at each end, they do work pretty well as long a the correct wire size is used.

As google search for automotive electrical connectors will give anyone a multitude of connectors that are also available.
 
When using multiple smaller gauge wires in a yellow eye connector I always solder to prevent corrosion. I am an auto electrician and not a mechanic :yes:
 
I am an auto electrician and not a mechanic

I'm curious what you mean by "electrician". Most of the guys in my shop referred to themselves as technicians. I know this day in age we much be politically correct and I have such a hard time with that. Are some shops now identifying technicians that only do electrical work? I know the ASE certifications cover electrical, and of course now we have the drivability techs.

I ran a truck shop, my master tech's had to be able to handle whatever was thrown at them. I did have guys that were much better at certain jobs than others but that is to be expected.

I do know there are shops around that specialize in automotive electrical and with all the electronics that we now have in trucks and cars I can understand specializing.
 
In Australia we do an indentured trade for 4 years with technical college studies to become a qualified tradesman. Auto Electrical has been a seperate trade since the late 70s early 80s ( different states had their own trade courses) in Australia, prior to that it was part of the Auto Mechanical trade which also included Panel repairs ( Panel Beating and Spray painting) and Engine reconditioning ( Machining etc) in a 6 year indentured trade course. These skills were specialised into seperate trades and the Auto Mechanical trade only touches on these trades as part of its course structure.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=153836#p153836:3dpyhxgp said:
akolleth » Thu Jul 16, 2015 6:52 pm[/url]":3dpyhxgp]
I never thought this topic would be so lively. Hmm.. For my next topic I was thinking of "Ford versus Chevy... which is better?" :BigGrin:
Depends on which but connector you use! :smilie_happy: :0fftopic:
 
Have to agree with both points about wire nuts! :yes: They have always worked for me, can be taken apart if needed, & in different sizes they fit into many places with cramped quarters. The price & availability is a very attractive reason for my using them on my bikes over the years, don't use them on anybody's bikes but my own. :nea: Appearance leaves the question about the quality of repairs, & time taken with same in the eyes of someone who has brought their bike to you to fix. :doh: Solder, & shrink wrap, leave a much more professional appearance, & are a very dependable connection. :salute: A good quality brass crimp connector, in a locking plug block, done correctly will last, work well & leave you with a professional looking repair. :builder:
 
Ah, butt connectors, wonderful things! We have magnesium chloride to deal with on the roads here, used as de-icer in the wintertime and dust abatement in the summer time. Any exposed wire strands(like in the end of a butt connector) will lead to a rotted failed connection in just a short while. The rot doesn't stop at the connection either, it goes under the insulation and turns the copper strands black way up inside the wire. I work in the shop on the off season and I have noticed two things: every log truck driver out there thinks he is some kind of self taught electrical genius, and 90% of them are too lazy to tape over the joint after using a butt connector. It isn't necessary to have more than one size either, the yellow ones work for every gauge of wire, smash em together with your vise grips and head on down the road. Steady work, work I would rather not have.
 
I work in the shop on the off season and I have noticed two things: every log truck driver out there thinks he is some kind of self taught electrical genius, and 90% of them are too lazy to tape over the joint after using a butt connector. It isn't necessary to have more than one size either, the yellow ones work for every gauge of wire, smash em together with your vise grips and head on down the road. Steady work, work I would rather not have.

I loved the trucking industry, it provided me with a living, and the trucker/mechanic made sure we always had work to do fixing what they fixed. I remember in the 70s and 80s when CB radios with big amplifiers where so popular. We made a fortune fixing the electrical nightmares these folks created. One lade used a 14 gage wire to power an amplifier that drew 70 amps, he tied the wires to the main harness, and of course there was no fuse inline. He got to meet the local fire department.

By the same token I have seen non professionals do some very good quality work, some of the bike and auto restorations I have seen done were outstanding workmanship. It is all about learning the rules, using common sense, and taking pride in what one does.
 

Latest posts

Top