Not A Wing, But Still A Boxer Engine

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[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=159382#p159382:36sym5o7 said:
mcgovern61 » Tue Sep 22, 2015 5:29 am[/url]":36sym5o7]
Nice Steve!! That engine sounds great! :clapping:

Are all Corvairs dual carbs like that?
Most are dual, and put out 85 to 110 HP. The 140 HP came out in '65 with 4 carbs, and the turbocharged, 150 or 180 HP has a single, side-draft carb. 180 HP from 164 cubic inches was pretty amazing in the 60's!
 
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Well, it's been a while, but after several medical issues, two visits to the ER - both with hospital stays, one with surgery (gall bladder, after 25 years of episodes), the restoration continues. A little sanding and primer, a set of '62 dog dish hub caps and trim rings, and the little 'Vair is looking much better.



I picked up a transale for almost nothing a week ago, thinking it could be a learning experience. I downloaded all the manuals for the Corvair Powerglide tranny, and the adventure begins...



Mounted it on the engine stand and drained the fluid. Quite a bit of water drained out with it. Once I got it disassembled, the only water damage was a bit of light rust in the front pump.



The rust cleaned up easily, and the gear clearances measured within specs. Other than being very dirty, the rest of the internals look good. I ordered a rebuild kit - only $32, and it arrived in two days.



Got the drive and valve body parts all cleaned up...



Then started cleaning the case.



I finally understand how these transmissions do their magic! There are six planet gears instead of three, and two sun gears - all in the same housing. Two clutches and one band control everything, and you get two forward speeds and reverse...genius!



Re-assembly...first was the valve body, filter screen, and pan...



Then the internals. First was the rear pump/reverse clutch and ring gear.



Next, the planetary gearset, then the drive clutch and low band...



And finally, the front pump, governor, and vacuum modulator (not shown).



This was a "practice" assembly - no new parts were used. I want to get everything as clean as possible, and I've ordered bushings and thrust washers. I might as well do it all, and do it right! I'll probably have a machine shop press in the bushings, since I don't have any of the special tools. Joel, any suggestions?

I also have a new carpet kit, headliner, headlight switch, and sound system to install, and I need to replace all the heater/defroster ducts, and do some electrical work on butchered wiring. Oh, and two engines in pieces...one will be rebuilt. A little at a time...
 
Good to hear you're feeling better!

Automatic transmissions certainly are a marvel of magic.
I've rebuilt a few. It's quite a feeling of achievement when they work all fresh and knowing you made that happen.
 
Harbor freight has a small bench model press pretty cheap. Hardware stores sell an aluminum brightener to restore brightness of aluminum storm doors. Looks like you're going to end up with a brand new vintage vair! Looks great to me. I just put a rebuilt long block in my 86 Ranger. Cheaper to fix it than replace it.
 
I've had quite a few '86 - '88 Rangers and Bronco IIs over the years - love 'em! Is yours a 2.5 or a 2.9? They were a dime-a-dozen for a while, now they're getting rare, and pricy. Any vehicle that lets you replace the heater core in about 10 minutes is OK in my book! No heater core in the Corvair, just lots of ductwork.
 
2.3 motor in mine. AKA Lima motor. Holley 6500 2 brl and old style ignition with distributer. Most of the add on controls have been removed.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=163300#p163300:20gou41m said:
Steve83 » Sat Nov 21, 2015 3:43 pm[/url]":20gou41m]
I'll probably have a machine shop press in the bushings, since I don't have any of the special tools. Joel, any suggestions?

Boocheens? We don need no steenkin boocheens! :hihihi:

Without a proper set of drivers, you would need to farm the bushing install out. Truth is, I rarely ever change bushings, unless they are just completely shot....but that's just me. You can get a cheapy set of drivers at Harbor Freight that might do the job...not sure what the sizes are on their set. Or...if you plan on banging a LOT of bushings in the future, you could spend a wee bit more and get a better set from Northern Tool.

Or...you can just take them to the machine shop, and have them press them in....as you said. :yes: :good:
Glad to hear you're back on the mend, too. :yahoo: Good Luck on the project...it's coming together nicely!
 
:thanks: to all for the kind words!

A small setback today...I pulled out the nasty old carpet to clean things up and install new, and got this surprise...



Oh well, it is a 53 year-old car, and, as far as I can tell, this is the only rust on it. The rest of the floor is solid. It rusted from the inside out, so there's a leak somewhere. Has anyone used the $99 Harbor Freight flux wire welder? Replacement floor pans are cheap for this car, I just have no welding experience. Maybe I should just hire a mobile welder, after I get the old sections cut out and everything cleaned up. Ahh...life is good! :yes:
 
It's under the carpet. You can kill the rust and pop rivet new sections in with sealer and call it good. Personally I prefer gas welder and small tip for sheet metal.
 

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