Parts suppliers used:
water pump seal kit
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/GL1200-GL1200A-G ... 591wt_1245
water pump rebuild kit
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/280871719864?ssP ... 626wt_1186
Water pump rebuild kit-taunusrainer-ebay seller - $37.50 includes shipping (search Honda water pump rebuild kit) He list several and you must pick the proper kit for your application.
Water pump gasket set-georgefix-ebay seller $23.99 includes shipping (search Honda water pump gasket kit) His kit includes the oil pump seal also.
Both sellers are excellent in all regards.
1. Remove the water pump from the transmission cover.
2. Remove the rear snap ring on the oil pump end of pump shaft. Supporting the front of the pump housing, begin driving the shaft thru the rear bearing. I used a rubber hammer to keep from damaging the end of the shaft. When you reach the rear bearing, use a blunted nose chisel in slot and drive the shaft thru the front bearing and mechanical seal. You will find a snap ring on the front part of the shaft that will either be broker or the ears will be bent flat against pump shaft. Remove it and discard.
3. That will leave you a pump shaft with the impeller attached. Support the impeller fins with the vise and with a round blunt chisel, drive the pump shaft out of the impleller. Flip the impeller over and pop out the ceramic washer and its rubber seal.
4. Supporting the back of the pump housing on the vise and using the blunt round chisel, tap the rear bearing out of the housing. Flip the pump housing over and drive out the front bearing which in turn will remove the mechanical seal and tin cup at the same time.
5. Throw the old bearings, o-rings, mechanical seal, ceramic washer and seal in the trash and clean the pump shaft, impeller and pump housing. There will probably be some pitting on the shaft and in the front of the pump housing where the front bearing and weep hole are. This shouldn't hurt anything as long as the areas where the bearings ride on the shaft are smooth, the oil pump slotted end is not damaged and the impeller end of shaft is smooth. You can lightly sand the shaft to clean up these pitted areas.
6. These are the new parts that come with the rebuild kit. Do not remove the spring loaded end of the mechanical seal from the tin cup as it is assembled as should be. There are two tangs on that tin cup that the mechanical seal slides forward on to maintain pressure against the ceramic washer as the seal wears with use. It is also self aligning an may leak a small amount thru the weep hole until it seats.
7. Install a new snap ring on the impeller end of the pump shaft. I purchased new ones at the local hardware store for 22 cents each. You will need two.
8. After lightly lubing the OD of one of the bearings with petroleum jelly, install it in the impeller end of the pump housing, make sure it is fully seated.
It will look like this, exposing the weep hole in the housing.
While you were cleaning the housing, this weep hole should have been cleaned out. I used a drill bit the same size of hole. If you forgot to, do it now before it's to late.
9. Using the same procedure as above and install the rear bearing. It will be recessed slightly below the surface when it's seated, like this.
10. Using a light coating of petroleum jelly on the pump shaft, insert the slotted end thru the front bearing and thru the rear bearing until the front snap ring rests against the front of the front bearing. Don't overdrive it. Flip the housing over and you may find that the rear bearing has tried to move outward. Support the impeller end of shaft on vise and reseat the rear bearing as before. Install the rear snap ring.
11. I used a light coating of Pematex blue thread locker on the OD of the tin cup of the mechanical seal. Using a socket on the rim of the tin cup, drive the tin cup into face of the pump housing until it seats.
12. The ceramic washer is semi-enclosed in rubber seal. Put a light coat of petroleum jelly on the OD of this rubber seal and install it using thumb pressure into the back of the impeller. If you happen to have been inquisitive and removed the ceramic washer, reinstall it in the rubber seal with the "shiney" side looking back at you.
13. I put a light coating of the Permatex blue thread locker on the OD of the impeller end of the pump shaft, stood the pump up on the oil pump end of pump shaft and drove the impeller back onto the shaft until it was seated.
14. Now you have rebuilt your own water pump.
I haven't installed or tested mine as yet because of other work on the bike, but I see no reason for it not to work. Make sure the trans cover weep hole is cleaned out using the same drill bit as before. When you get ready to install the pump into your transmission cover, coat the new o-rings with petroleum jelly real good and also the pump housing and it should go back together easily without rolling or cutting the o-rings, however you still have to be really careful doing this part. Make sure the weep hole in the pump and the trans cover match up. Install the three bolts with the new sealing washers that came with the gasket kit and torque to specs. Happy Trails.
backlander
water pump seal kit
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/GL1200-GL1200A-G ... 591wt_1245
water pump rebuild kit
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/280871719864?ssP ... 626wt_1186
Water pump rebuild kit-taunusrainer-ebay seller - $37.50 includes shipping (search Honda water pump rebuild kit) He list several and you must pick the proper kit for your application.
Water pump gasket set-georgefix-ebay seller $23.99 includes shipping (search Honda water pump gasket kit) His kit includes the oil pump seal also.
Both sellers are excellent in all regards.
1. Remove the water pump from the transmission cover.
2. Remove the rear snap ring on the oil pump end of pump shaft. Supporting the front of the pump housing, begin driving the shaft thru the rear bearing. I used a rubber hammer to keep from damaging the end of the shaft. When you reach the rear bearing, use a blunted nose chisel in slot and drive the shaft thru the front bearing and mechanical seal. You will find a snap ring on the front part of the shaft that will either be broker or the ears will be bent flat against pump shaft. Remove it and discard.
3. That will leave you a pump shaft with the impeller attached. Support the impeller fins with the vise and with a round blunt chisel, drive the pump shaft out of the impleller. Flip the impeller over and pop out the ceramic washer and its rubber seal.
4. Supporting the back of the pump housing on the vise and using the blunt round chisel, tap the rear bearing out of the housing. Flip the pump housing over and drive out the front bearing which in turn will remove the mechanical seal and tin cup at the same time.
5. Throw the old bearings, o-rings, mechanical seal, ceramic washer and seal in the trash and clean the pump shaft, impeller and pump housing. There will probably be some pitting on the shaft and in the front of the pump housing where the front bearing and weep hole are. This shouldn't hurt anything as long as the areas where the bearings ride on the shaft are smooth, the oil pump slotted end is not damaged and the impeller end of shaft is smooth. You can lightly sand the shaft to clean up these pitted areas.
6. These are the new parts that come with the rebuild kit. Do not remove the spring loaded end of the mechanical seal from the tin cup as it is assembled as should be. There are two tangs on that tin cup that the mechanical seal slides forward on to maintain pressure against the ceramic washer as the seal wears with use. It is also self aligning an may leak a small amount thru the weep hole until it seats.
7. Install a new snap ring on the impeller end of the pump shaft. I purchased new ones at the local hardware store for 22 cents each. You will need two.
8. After lightly lubing the OD of one of the bearings with petroleum jelly, install it in the impeller end of the pump housing, make sure it is fully seated.
9. Using the same procedure as above and install the rear bearing. It will be recessed slightly below the surface when it's seated, like this.
10. Using a light coating of petroleum jelly on the pump shaft, insert the slotted end thru the front bearing and thru the rear bearing until the front snap ring rests against the front of the front bearing. Don't overdrive it. Flip the housing over and you may find that the rear bearing has tried to move outward. Support the impeller end of shaft on vise and reseat the rear bearing as before. Install the rear snap ring.
11. I used a light coating of Pematex blue thread locker on the OD of the tin cup of the mechanical seal. Using a socket on the rim of the tin cup, drive the tin cup into face of the pump housing until it seats.
12. The ceramic washer is semi-enclosed in rubber seal. Put a light coat of petroleum jelly on the OD of this rubber seal and install it using thumb pressure into the back of the impeller. If you happen to have been inquisitive and removed the ceramic washer, reinstall it in the rubber seal with the "shiney" side looking back at you.
13. I put a light coating of the Permatex blue thread locker on the OD of the impeller end of the pump shaft, stood the pump up on the oil pump end of pump shaft and drove the impeller back onto the shaft until it was seated.
14. Now you have rebuilt your own water pump.
I haven't installed or tested mine as yet because of other work on the bike, but I see no reason for it not to work. Make sure the trans cover weep hole is cleaned out using the same drill bit as before. When you get ready to install the pump into your transmission cover, coat the new o-rings with petroleum jelly real good and also the pump housing and it should go back together easily without rolling or cutting the o-rings, however you still have to be really careful doing this part. Make sure the weep hole in the pump and the trans cover match up. Install the three bolts with the new sealing washers that came with the gasket kit and torque to specs. Happy Trails.
backlander
