Did a nice run around after my carb issues but......

Shop deals on ebay
shop deals on amazon
Advertise with us
Classic Goldwings

Help Support Classic Goldwings:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
SlabG,

I am with ya. So the gauge reads wrong if it has gone bad not just up and quit?

so this 7v reg is inside the instrument cluster not under the shelter?

Can it be changed out?

I'd like it to give me the correct reading. I have another speedocluster gauge that came with the motor that is in the bike. I am wondering if swapping that out would be worth it. Doesn't look like that much fun esp. with the fairing in the way.

I'd put it off if I knew for sure the bike was not running hot. Anyway to get a definitive on this?

How about putting a proper thermometer in somewhere to check the temp?
 
Yes the cluster could be changed and if the replacement reg. is good it should fix both guages. You might check the temp with one of the infrared temp guages but you'd someone else to do the same to compare readings. I don't know what the temp should be in degrees.
 
I have checked my radiator, pump and thermostat housing for temps witha thermo gun. The T-stat opens at 205 degrees at the radiator (195 degree t-stat) and does not close until temps get back down to 189 degrees. You could put in a manual gauge from a parts store in to check temps.

With the t-stat in and an outside temp (like today) of 60 degrees, my temp gauge will go to 1/4 after first warming up and up to 1/2 when fully warmed in stop and go traffic. Out on the highway, it drops to just above 1/4. Cannot emphasize enough the importance of the radiator deflectors to keep the engine cool at speed. When mine were missing, it ran up to 3/4 gauge on the highway with the fan running! Installed the deflectors, removed the chrome radiator grill and installed an OEM radiator rock guard instead and it never runs over 1/2 gauge!
 
I recall seeing a picture somewhere here but I've no idea which thread. Open up one of your spare clusters and it should be pretty obvious. Removing the fairing isn't so hard and only two nuts hold the cluster on. Keep at it man yer doing great! If you can't identify the reg just post pics of the cluster. Someone here will know which part it is.
 
D, SG, I'll check that out....

So the infrared would read the temp of the motor? Is this the temp that is being read at the temp sendng unit that which shows up on the gauge though not as a number? Is this the same temp more or less as the coolant?

Would the safe op. temp be in the manual? I am looking rt. now....

D, you must be on your I-pad/phone/wi-fi something or something.....
 
Pony Ruiz":a8lzjb6y said:
So the infrared would read the temp of the motor? Is this the temp that is being read at the temp sendng unit that which shows up on the gauge though not as a number? Is this the same temp more or less as the coolant?
Click to expand...
Yes! The infrared reads the temp of the motor and the coolant. Being aluminum, the coolant and the block are very close in temp at the surface.
 
to compare you need to know where mcgovern checked his read but anywhere on the outer shell of the motor should be pretty close.
 
Yes on my phone.

I checked, in my gallery scroll down past all the folders.
On the first page is a pic of the cluster laying face down. This regulator is marked no good, I think omega man got the good spare I had.
 
I have checked my radiator, pump and thermostat housing for temps witha thermo gun. The T-stat opens at 205 degrees at the radiator (195 degree t-stat) and does not close until temps get back down to 189 degrees. You could put in a manual gauge from a parts store in to check temps.

With the t-stat in and an outside temp (like today) of 60 degrees, my temp gauge will go to 1/4 after first warming up and up to 1/2 when fully warmed in stop and go traffic. Out on the highway, it drops to just above 1/4. Cannot emphasize enough the importance of the radiator deflectors to keep the engine cool at speed. When mine were missing, it ran up to 3/4 gauge on the highway with the fan running! Installed the deflectors, removed the chrome radiator grill and installed an OEM radiator rock guard instead and it never runs over 1/2 gauge!
Click to expand...

McG. I'm Mclovin it!

If I could go buy a thermometer right now I'd do it. I am obsessed. I'll have to wait till tomorrow.

How did you know for sure when the Tsat opened and closed without seeing it. I did kind of a test on the one that was in the bike - poured boiling water over it and let it sit. It opened. I was surprised how little.

I am going to put the deflectors back on after I do the temp test. I was hesitant to put everything back together until I was sure I wasn't going to have to take them off again. I did get rid of that grill and replaced it with the rock guard like you. Wow 3/4 on the gauge on the hwy - soundin a lot like mine......
 
great pony you have realy stayed with this situlation ....you have to on a unknown motor transplant ....i like the way you didnt let anything get oyt of hand .... :builder: :clapping: :mrgreen:
 
A couple shot of the voltage regulator/limiter:

image.php


image.php
 
great pony you have realy stayed with this situlation ....you have to on a unknown motor transplant ....i like the way you didnt let anything get oyt of hand .... :builder: :clapping: :mrgreen:
Click to expand...

Thanks Bro!

I could not/can not do it without you guys and the support ya'll give. I would have probably parted it out by now. Thanks! And thanks to who ever invented computers, the internet and forums!

fills out my days just fine...
 
If anyone has a pic of the radiator wings. I know mine doesn't have them I would like to see what they are. Does the chrome grill mean you have to remove them?
 
Just because it was warm in the radiator does not necessarily mean the t-stat is working right.Sometimes they stick partially open,at witch after a while it does not cool the engine enough.The fluid keeps circulating,but doesnt slow enough in the radiator to cool it down.So the farther you go the hotter it will get.
 
ajclockga":3dhaqzvj said:
Just because it was warm in the radiator does not necessarily mean the t-stat is working right.Sometimes they stick partially open,at witch after a while it does not cool the engine enough.The fluid keeps circulating,but doesnt slow enough in the radiator to cool it down.So the farther you go the hotter it will get.
Click to expand...
Uhh you might want to rethink this. A partly open valve will definitely slow the flow. At any rate it seems the guages read high because of a bad instrument voltage regulator.
 

Latest posts

Top