Neutral switch...

[Workinman]

I’m trying to replace my bad neutral switch (WHY didn’t I check this thing when I had the motor out?) and the manual says to flex the frame two millimeters to get the oil screen cover off and to get the switch out of the block. Well, two millimeters ain’t much, and assuming I can flex the frame two millimeters, I don’t think that’s going to be anywhere NEAR enough to get this switch out. Surely you guys have done this and know a trick or two.
I’ve got the lower front motor mount bolt and the right rear motor mount bolt completely removed but I ain’t gettin much “flex” out of the frame. I definitely don’t want to pull this motor to replace this switch! Any tips or tricks will be greatly appreciated!

 

[Workinman]

At this point, I’ve removed EVERY engine mounting bolt, and the right side header. Still not working. Then I found some information on another GoldWing site and I’ve figured out what I have to do. I will soon go back go back out to the garage and remove the left side header, the subframe, and move the engine slightly to the left to facilitate removal of the screen cover and the neutral switch. I’m not sure whose “STUPIDER” at this point. Honda for designing this, or me for not replacing that switch while I had the motor out. I’m also going to be replacing the temperature sending unit while I’ve got things partially disassembled, but it doesn’t look like it’s going to be easy to get to that either. I don’t think they could have made these two switches harder to get to unless they put them inside the block. Okay. I’m done bitching. I reserve the right to do additional bitching when I’m fixing the scratches on the frame and engine that were put there trying to replace a stupid switch.

 

[mcgovern61]

With all of the effort and knuckle busting it takes to get in there, I would just drop the engine and do the job where you not only have easy access, but you can check your work before reassembly.

 

[Workinman]

mcgovern61 » Today- 14:39[/url]":39y3pdos]
With all of the effort and knuckle busting it takes to get in there, I would just drop the engine and do the job where you not only have easy access, but you can check your work before reassembly.

In hindsight, possibly. But then dropping the engine is no picnic either. Maybe not so bad if that’s your objective from the beginning, but when you’re following the HONDA service manual, and it says to just remove the header, remove one nut and you’re home free, it soon becomes a nightmare.
Also in hindsight, if I had merely checked or replaced the switch while I had the engine out I could have saved a HUGE amount of knuckle busting. (Apparently I’m not that smart...) And if I had done more research before tackling this job, instead of simply trusting my HONDA service manual, I would have done this job in a couple of hours and been done with it. As it is, the switch is out, the new one is ready to go back in, and I’m a little wiser in the process. Hopefully my experience will help someone in the future.
I’ve also figured out that I can replace the oil screen screws with shorter BOLTS, so the next time, it won’t be impossible to remove them. :salute:

 

[pidjones]

Big crow bar and padding and a big plastic splitting wedge plus maybe some wooden wedges. Change the connection screw to a lightly ground-down Allen head.

 

[Workinman]

I had a couple of very large crow bars, and some wooden shims but it STILL wasn’t enough. Turns out, the trick it to remove ALL engine mounts, supporting the engine with a small floor jack, remove both headers, remove the subframe and the engine will easily slide to the left an inch or so to facilitate removal of the screen cover and the neutral switch. Then reassemble.
The temperature sending unit was done by removing all of the bolts from the fan shroud/upper engine mount, (this may not be necessary but I had already done it for the neutral switch, remove the eight bolts for the intake manifolds, slide the carb assembly back an inch or two and go in with a deep thin wall socket to remove the switch. Then reassemble.

 

[Randy Yocum]

In hindsight, possibly. But then dropping the engine is no picnic either. Maybe not so bad if that’s your objective from the beginning, but when you’re following the HONDA service manual, and it says to just remove the header, remove one nut and you’re home free, it soon becomes a nightmare.
Also in hindsight, if I had merely checked or replaced the switch while I had the engine out I could have saved a HUGE amount of knuckle busting. (Apparently I’m not that smart...) And if I had done more research before tackling this job, instead of simply trusting my HONDA service manual, I would have done this job in a couple of hours and been done with it. As it is, the switch is out, the new one is ready to go back in, and I’m a little wiser in the process. Hopefully my experience will help someone in the future.
I’ve also figured out that I can replace the oil screen screws with shorter BOLTS, so the next time, it won’t be impossible to remove them. :salute:

Thank you for explaining in detail how to get at and removing the switch,I agree with you that removing the subframe on the other side makes perfect sense,to get enough clearance on the switch side.Im like you I had the engine out and could have checked and replaced the switch so easily,but in my 50 years of riding I've never had a neutral switch go bad.I will be tackling this switch replacing soon, now equipped with (thanks to you) some inside good knowledge that will help.

 

[George]

HI all.
I've been interested in knowing why my GL1100 is hard to get into neutral. It goes in OK when it's cold and some time on a down gear shift.
Also another question I replaced the oil seals on the valves as I was burning quite a lot of oil and it didn't seem to make any difference. Some time ago when I started yhe bike I had excessive amounts of smoke coming out of both pipes it was billowing out. I went for a short ride and to my surprise it cleared and never happened again even a year later.
I leave the bike on the side stand as because of my age it's hard to get it up on the center stand.
Should I be thinking of replacing the rings?
Thanks George NZ

 

[Workinman]

HI all.
I've been interested in knowing why my GL1100 is hard to get into neutral. It goes in OK when it's cold and some time on a down gear shift.
Also another question I replaced the oil seals on the valves as I was burning quite a lot of oil and it didn't seem to make any difference. Some time ago when I started yhe bike I had excessive amounts of smoke coming out of both pipes it was billowing out. I went for a short ride and to my surprise it cleared and never happened again even a year later.
I leave the bike on the side stand as because of my age it's hard to get it up on the center stand.
Should I be thinking of replacing the rings?
Thanks George NZ

Hi George. I would think that starting a new thread with your questions might be a better idea. You would probably get more attention that way.
But to answer your questions with my own opinion, real quick, I would say that you need possibly a clutch adjustment to facilitate your getting it into neutral easier. And as for the rings, if it were me I would do a compression check. If it’s within tolerance, I would leave it alone and just ride it. Unless you’re crop dusting going down the road, burning a little oil wouldn’t bother me.
Also, make sure you are turning the gas off every time you park it. Especially if you’re leaving it on the side stand.
Chris

 

[George]

Hi George. I would think that starting a new thread with your questions might be a better idea. You would probably get more attention that way.
But to answer your questions with my own opinion, real quick, I would say that you need possibly a clutch adjustment to facilitate your getting it into neutral easier. And as for the rings, if it were me I would do a compression check. If it’s within tolerance, I would leave it alone and just ride it. Unless you’re crop dusting going down the road, burning a little oil wouldn’t bother me.
Also, make sure you are turning the gas off every time you park it. Especially if you’re leaving it on the side stand.
Chris

Thanks Chris
I may start a new thread but I'm not that savvy.
I do always turn off the fuel and I did a compression test and all cylinders are 185 to 190 PSI.
I will adjust the clutch tomorrow.
Cheers from George

 

[CLK]

At this point, I’ve removed EVERY engine mounting bolt, and the right side header. Still not working. Then I found some information on another GoldWing site and I’ve figured out what I have to do. I will soon go back go back out to the garage and remove the left side header, the subframe, and move the engine slightly to the left to facilitate removal of the screen cover and the neutral switch. I’m not sure whose “STUPIDER” at this point. Honda for designing this, or me for not replacing that switch while I had the motor out. I’m also going to be replacing the temperature sending unit while I’ve got things partially disassembled, but it doesn’t look like it’s going to be easy to get to that either. I don’t think they could have made these two switches harder to get to unless they put them inside the block. Okay. I’m done bitching. I reserve the right to do additional bitching when I’m fixing the scratches on the frame and engine that were put there trying to replace a stupid switch.

I know this was an old post, but having gone through the same thing - its definitely Honda that is stupider. They made a lot of (lets call them) strange design decisions.