Question on choke and idle adjustment.

dave1135 · Nov 1, 2024

I'm putting my bike back together after a 4 month restoration, I've rebuilt the carbs(30 year small engine/dealer here) I was checking the choke/high idle on the carb assembly and I noticed the idle adjustment screw is about 1/8-1/4 inch away from contacting the stop. All the throttle plates in each of the carbs look closed, and I made sure I had the synch adjustment washers in-between each of the slots on the throttles. Could the link arms running to the #3 and #4 from the center shaft of the plenum need bent to adjust, or am I missing something?

DaveO430 · Nov 3, 2024

If all the throttle plates are closed you just need to turn the idle screw in until it starts to move the #3 throttle plate. Then bench synch the rest to #3. Don't bend those linkages.

dave1135 · Nov 3, 2024

Ok, thanks. The throttle plates are closed, thought it was weird that the throttle screw was off the stop. These carbs have not been on my bike, the original carbs had been hacked up and was missing all the choke linkages, it's what I think caused the engine to seize from water intrusion. Air cleaner was out, and cover was missing wingnut. Bike had sat out and rain water got in thru the faux tank and loose cover

dave1135 · Nov 6, 2024

Well, I took a close look at the carburetors today, and I found why the throttle screw was off the stop, the #3 carburetor, that had the accelerator pump on it, the throttle shaft for the carb was bent. After some slow and careful bending, it's straight and my idle adjustment is against the stop like it should be. Got carbs and air box in, and new choke and throttle cables connected. It has a electrical gremlin now, no power to the fuse panel, but I should be able to straighten it out easily enough.

kerryb · Nov 20, 2024

The ignition switch can be cleaned at the contacts by pulling the plastic off the bottom. The clymer manual tells how to get the switch apart.

dave1135 · Nov 21, 2024

Thanks, I've got power thru the 10 amp fuse for the turn signals and brake lights, but no power at the Individual wires that power them. I can apply power to brakes and flasher and everything works. I do have power to the horns, and according to my wiring diagram the horns are powered by the same circuit as the turn signals and brake lights.

kerryb · Nov 21, 2024

dave1135 said:
. It has a electrical gremlin now, no power to the fuse panel, but I should be able to straighten it out easily enough.

Grounds first, switches second, trace each wire till the power won’t go through.

DaveO430 · Nov 22, 2024

Make sure the fuse is making contact on both ends, those clips corrode and loose connection.

dave1135 · Nov 23, 2024

Thanks for the tips. The fuse block terminals have 12+ on both sides, I do have power to the horns, just nothing to the turn signal flasher or front and rear brake switches. According to the wiring diagram, all of these circuits are powered from the same source. If I probe each of the power side of these at the connectors in the steering head and at the flasher, they all function. I'm wondering if there's some corrosion under the fuse block, test light shows power is going thru at the clips, but maybe not out to the wire.

eatherton · Nov 24, 2024

Try pulling the bulbs out and brushing the contacts inside the socket.

Question on choke and idle adjustment.

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