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You might be better off with the mixture screws set between 2½ and 3 turns out .

You might be better off with a second had loom , ? That is un butchered.

If you want to get your welds to look nice , after you get your wire speed and amps set , i:e wire not pushing back or burning back up to nozzel contact piece, try moving like , pause move pause move etc .cheers ,

HI stel , not really , they say randaks are the best , I used some parts from K&L kit mainly the gaskets , I had to use the idle jets mine were completely blocked , the jets dont really wear I removed my fuel inlet control valve (metering pin) and cleaned the little filter underneath, and...

Gas pouring out of the carbs on mine , was the plenum oring , carbs probably need a dam good clean and new gaskets , I think the big yellow wires are from the stator , apparently the original terminal block can melt if connections are bad , so they can be soldered to the other three yellows ...

Hi Kerry, your correct about starter bolting to the engine for its earth , but the main earth lead from the battery negative goes behind the left side triangular engine plate/mount , or it does on a 76 . Cheers

The battery negative goes to the frame and motor , behind that triangular mount, (76) it does .just add another earth , it will help you find your problem .use a jumper lead .

The earth lead on my 76 is under the left triangle engine mount , to the battery .

Yes , but maybe bolt on another connector or you might spark up and damage you thread on starter motor , to see if it has life .

Remove the earth lead , alot of times the connectors on the end get full of dirt and grease etc , either make a new one or cook the crud out of it with a big soldering iron and some resin core solder . It will stiffen the ends but when in place it doesn't need to be to flexible .

So if you put , 12v onto the starter direct with a decent jumper lead (momentarily) if it doesn't crank either its got no earth or something with starter , have you tried a car battery on it ? .

It's a good idea to replace the timing belts /tensioner bearings can be ground or drilled off the bracket, to 12mm I think , I used a countersunk quality bolt and countersunk the back of the bracket, the bearings are a hyundai or kia bearing , they are really nice , I fitted a nyoc and...

I have a 76 gl1000 , and found that it is easy to get a bur on the sprocket or spline of starter , it can be sorted out with a small triangle file , fitting brushes and greasing up starter made a lot of difference to mine , have you had all the plugs out and confirmed motor turns , not seized ...

Hi Derrick I'm not familiar with 81 carbs but on my 76 I found cleaning the idle circuit very difficult with the bowls off and puck removed, as these components complete the circuit, so I found removing an elbow at a time and squirting and blowing down the mixture screw hole and seeing how well...

I would imagine your intake rubbers are like plastic , mine were, I soaked mine in oil of wintergreen and isopropyl alcohol for 3-4 days , this helps soften and get a better seal (more vacuum) signal .

If it starts ok , use choke to warm it slightly , then ride it , no need to use choke again , maybe some fuel additive cleaner could help the carb passages that are hard to clean , like if you have the bowl off and puck out , it cuts a circuit in half , most of us have had the carbs in and out 3...

Light silver on the block , and some header paint on the exhausts , keep it tidy , it's yours don't worry about anyone else , it don't think they will ever be a HRD Vincent .and do the belts as mentioned .

I put a relay on my ignition, it bolts on under left side shelter has got a decent fat feed from the battery and goes from there to power the ballast , I also just added a 450cca battery , I just use generic replacement coils , runs good , starts good .

Put a small piece of cardboard in the opposite set of points in the contact breaker gap , then time the other set , for static timing only , it will make your light go on off better .

Hi , make sure you use a small bit of cardboard on one set of points when adjusting the other , you can actually get the timing correct on both sets of f1 and f2 marks , you might have heard of the split the difference timing , the reason for this is because the points plate and points slots...