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Rebuilt the starter put it back together and it did not spin when connected to a power source. So just went ahead and ordered and a replacement. My buddy said he started the motor a few months back so not sure if it seized or anything going on with the engine, I don't know how to check it. But I guess I can YouTube it LOL
It's a good idea to replace the timing belts /tensioner bearings can be ground or drilled off the bracket, to 12mm I think , I used a countersunk quality bolt and countersunk the back of the bracket, the bearings are a hyundai or kia bearing , they are really nice , I fitted a nyoc and loctited it . Maybe check that starter again or the solenoid etc , check your earth's.
 
Okay. The starter solenoid looks good put a brand new starter on it and the battery is good when I go to start it all I hear is a click. Anyone know what could be going on?
 
Okay. The starter solenoid looks good put a brand new starter on it and the battery is good when I go to start it all I hear is a click. Anyone know what could be going on?
So if you put , 12v onto the starter direct with a decent jumper lead (momentarily) if it doesn't crank either its got no earth or something with starter , have you tried a car battery on it ? .
 
Okay. The starter solenoid looks good put a brand new starter on it and the battery is good when I go to start it all I hear is a click. Anyone know what could be going on?
Remove the earth lead , alot of times the connectors on the end get full of dirt and grease etc , either make a new one or cook the crud out of it with a big soldering iron and some resin core solder . It will stiffen the ends but when in place it doesn't need to be to flexible .
 
So if you put , 12v onto the starter direct with a decent jumper lead (momentarily) if it doesn't crank either its got no earth or something with starter , have you tried a car battery on it ? .
No I haven't tried a car battery. The battery I got is brand new with more than then suggested crank amps. As far as grounding the starter it didn't have a wire for that it looks like it's simply grounded when bolted onto the bike. So are you saying I should disconnect the positive cable directly to the starter and see if it cranks?
 
No I haven't tried a car battery. The battery I got is brand new with more than then suggested crank amps. As far as grounding the starter it didn't have a wire for that it looks like it's simply grounded when bolted onto the bike. So are you saying I should disconnect the positive cable directly to the starter and see if it cranks?
Yes , but maybe bolt on another connector or you might spark up and damage you thread on starter motor , to see if it has life .
 
No I haven't tried a car battery. The battery I got is brand new with more than then suggested crank amps. As far as grounding the starter it didn't have a wire for that it looks like it's simply grounded when bolted onto the bike. So are you saying I should disconnect the positive cable directly to the starter and see if it cranks?
The earth lead on my 76 is under the left triangle engine mount , to the battery .
 
Yes , but maybe bolt on another connector or you might spark up and damage you thread on starter motor , to see if it has life .
There's no where to bolt a negative. Isn't the bolt attaching the starter to the bike the negative?
 
There's no where to bolt a negative. Isn't the bolt attaching the starter to the bike the negative?
The battery negative goes to the frame and motor , behind that triangular mount, (76) it does .just add another earth , it will help you find your problem .use a jumper lead .
 
Dear Lord I'm about to lose my ****! My buddy told me that that would happen plenty of times lol. So I pulled the starter off and try to see if it was working by connecting it directly to the battery and grounding it to itself. What are the odds that a new starter does not work?
 
I. Just read your whole post, welcome to the fun. I have a few comments and maybe some help.
1. The starter gets it's ground where it touches the engine case, so clean those contact points!
2. The bolt on the side of the starter has a wire attached on the inside, DON'T turn the bolt, only the nuts, or you will break the starter.
3. Starters can take quite a few amps to turn, make sure the battery is fully charged, & you use a big enough wire to test it. Auto jumper cables are big enough, but their long length can be a problem for a marginal battery.
4. If you bought a chinese starter then it might be defective, but taking it to an auto repair shop to be sure, is a good step too.
5. Hondachoppers.com has a simple wire diagram for a bobber, but learning to read the schematic in the manual is priceless.
 
I. Just read your whole post, welcome to the fun. I have a few comments and maybe some help.
1. The starter gets it's ground where it touches the engine case, so clean those contact points!
2. The bolt on the side of the starter has a wire attached on the inside, DON'T turn the bolt, only the nuts, or you will break the starter.
3. Starters can take quite a few amps to turn, make sure the battery is fully charged, & you use a big enough wire to test it. Auto jumper cables are big enough, but their long length can be a problem for a marginal battery.
4. If you bought a chinese starter then it might be defective, but taking it to an auto repair shop to be sure, is a good step too.
5. Hondachoppers.com has a simple wire diagram for a bobber, but learning to read the schematic in the manual is priceless.

I. Just read your whole post, welcome to the fun. I have a few comments and maybe some help.
1. The starter gets it's ground where it touches the engine case, so clean those contact points!
2. The bolt on the side of the starter has a wire attached on the inside, DON'T turn the bolt, only the nuts, or you will break the starter.
3. Starters can take quite a few amps to turn, make sure the battery is fully charged, & you use a big enough wire to test it. Auto jumper cables are big enough, but their long length can be a problem for a marginal battery.
4. If you bought a chinese starter then it might be defective, but taking it to an auto repair shop to be sure, is a good step too.
5. Hondachoppers.com has a simple wire diagram for a bobber, but learning to read the schematic in the manual is priceless.
Hi Kerry, your correct about starter bolting to the engine for its earth , but the main earth lead from the battery negative goes behind the left side triangular engine plate/mount , or it does on a 76 . Cheers
 
I appreciate the guidance. Waiting for the new starter and will go from there. The main earth lead from the battery looks good. I will check the wiring out
 
Cobra427, yes the neg. cable from batttery goes to left engine mount in most old hondas, but I wanted to make sure he didn't go through batteries and starter rebuild when the only problem is a bad ground like mine. Plus side was I got good at reassembling the starter.
 
Appreciates all the feedback. Got a new starter put that on and the engine turns. So I'm glad it's not seized up. It'll turnwont fire up and run. It's did fire up a couple of times but just died after a few attempts I noticed gas coming out of the carbs. It seems like I might have to clean out the carbs correct? Any suggestions on that or the kits I can get to replace gaskets and such. I found some kits 30 bucks but not sure if they will fit. I'm assuming I'm going to have to do that. I also have a question about the three yellow wires on the side when I go to the bike they were cut and disconnected. What purpose do they serve and do I need to reconnect them?
As always. Thanks
 
Gas pouring out of the carbs on mine , was the plenum oring , carbs probably need a dam good clean and new gaskets , I think the big yellow wires are from the stator , apparently the original terminal block can melt if connections are bad , so they can be soldered to the other three yellows , I'm not ectronically gifted so hopefully someone else will tell you if it matters which way around .cheers
 
Appreciate the feedback. Do you know if any good carb kits?
 
HI stel , not really , they say randaks are the best , I used some parts from K&L kit mainly the gaskets , I had to use the idle jets mine were completely blocked , the jets dont really wear I removed my fuel inlet control valve (metering pin) and cleaned the little filter underneath, and reused the genuine metering pins as recommended by Randaks for better flow , I use a steel body small car type fuel filter , I had a chinese filter on there that looked the part , but it's filter and the bits inside got sucked into the pump and then to my carbs 🙄 , I bought the centre plenum oring from randaks , don't worry about getting the pucks most fall out . Hopefully someone will chime in with their experience. De rust your fuel tank , plenty of stuff around , look ot for pin holes after , easy to get tiged up after several hot soapy water washes , Cheers
Appreciate the feedback. Do you know if any good carb kits?
 
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Just wanted to update. Waiting on the air and accelerated diaphragm to rebuild the carbs. Found replacement O-rings. I do have a question about I cannot identify. Anyone know what this is?
 

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