1100 Engine Bearing Question

Classic Goldwings

Help Support Classic Goldwings:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Steve83

Well-known member
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2012
Messages
4,556
Reaction score
9
Location
Altadena, CA
Your opinions wanted:

I'm rebuilding my '83 engine, and I'm almost to the point of re-assembly. The case is cleaned, honed, and all mating surfaces are true. I have new rings, gaskets, seals, and most of the bearings. I still need the #1 and #3 rod bearings, but can't locate any. The only difference between them and #2 and #4 is the lack of a drilled oil hole. The manual states that the left cylinders are oiled via the squirt hole in the rod, and the right ones are splash oiled. All 4 rods are drilled with a squirt hole, and all 4 crank journals are identically drilled to deliver oil pressure to the rod bearings.

The 1200 has oil holes in all 4 rod bearings, but I haven't seen the inside of a 1200 case, so the oil splash might be different.

I can't imagine the tiny amount of oil spraying out of the squirt holes, for just a fraction of every crank revolution, would cause excessive oil consumption in the right-hand cylinders, or a noticable drop in oil pressure.

Has anyone built an 1100 engine with all 4 rod bearings drilled? Any problems with oil usage, oil pressure, or blue smoke from the right cylinders? Am I going to be the guinea pig on this experiment? I'd really rather not split the case again after it's built, installed and running!
 
I think yes you are the guinea pig and no I haven't tried it. Logic though would seem to say that drilled or not they should function the same. The 1200 does have a higher capacity oil pump but it's probably for the hydraulic lifters. If it's a big concern to you, you could just solder the holes shut. I really don't see the need though. I haven't been that deep into a motor yet but I think I'd use the drilled bearings as is.
 
Stop procrastinating and build that puppy so that we can go for a ride. :whip: :yes: :good:
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=92372#p92372:155hkyzd said:
Steve83 » Sun Aug 11, 2013 2:28 am[/url]":155hkyzd]
I can't imagine the tiny amount of oil spraying out of the squirt holes, for just a fraction of every crank revolution, would cause excessive oil consumption in the right-hand cylinders, or a noticable drop in oil pressure.

Why wouldn't the squirt holes be under pressure, and squirting all the time, since the bearings are?
 
Steve I doubt too many people have tried this before so this might be one that falls into the category of "You never know until you try." I haven't been too deep into the motor but I would think that as long as the rings are good consumption and smoke shouldn't be a big issue.
 
yes you are steve ,,,,,no way would I put it together without prviding oil to that side this cant be anything but stupid engineering ....this is one of the biggest reasons 1200 short block is the best ...there is no difference in cavity of 1200 and 1100 for this to be reason 1000 trans and all fit right in ....there seems to be so much oil to the top end ...I cant see this causeing any lack of flow to heads .....id say don't be as stupid as Honda was here...theres no way this makes sense at all and never did ....put in new bearing and supply oil to them rods ...huge mod in my book ...as Honda finally did in 1200 along with bigger clutch 10% oil and water flow increase you could also sorce 1200 clut and drive gear from motor and increase oil and water flow ...but I don't see a problem there ...theres plenty of oil volume in the 1100s and 1000s ..it makes no sense why they did this none ...what a JOKE it would listening to someone give merit to such dumbness ...id be on the floor unable to get up from laughing
 
STEVE, YOU MAY HAVE HIT ON SOMETHING HERE!! On my '81 knocking engine, the right side did most of the knocking. As I have listened to or watched videos, I often see that 1100 engines that get rod knock usually starts on the right side! Could the fact that the bearings do not have drilled holes be the reason the right side goes first?? Most of my knocking was real loud on the rights side. :Awe: :popcorn:

To look at the pictures, it is hard to tell at this point which bearings wiped out first.

#1 and #3 upper rod bearings:

image.php


#4 upper rod bearing:

image.php
 
STEVE, YOU MAY HAVE HIT ON SOMETHING HERE!! On my '81 knocking engine, the right side did most of the knocking. As I have listened to or watched videos, I often see that 1100 engines that get rod knock usually starts on the right side! Could the fact that the bearings do not have drilled holes be the reason the right side goes first?? Most of my knocking was real loud on the rights side. :Awe: :popcorn:

To look at the pictures, it is hard to tell at this point which bearings wiped out first.

I stand corrected....take a close look at #1....there is definately gauling and two worn spots.

#1 and #3 upper rod bearings:

image.php


#4 upper rod bearing:

image.php
 

Latest posts

Top