1200 getting modded to accept a left rear cam drive for the C5 ignition.

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My last post was about something else but thought I'd post a vid where I'm at right now.

[video]https://youtu.be/itMi5PvD300[/video]

This may be as far as I go and run with it, unless Paul wants to make me up one a dem fancy dancy stainless steel studs.
 
The cloaking device for the electronics is working great! And you really know how to hide wires! :hihihi:

Seriously, it looks good! It appears to be spinning straight and true...is the depth correct here?
 
Before you know it you will be a multi- sparky (as per the side of your van) :smilie_happy:
 
Dan (or anyone else wanting a shaft as I've shown), we need to know the height from the base of the cam to the encoder.
Once we know that, we'll design a shaft that accepts the small aluminium "top and bottom".

Yes they are a bit pricey, but they are perfect, and the height cant be messed up. The same machine shop that makes our automobile distributors also makes these.
 
Dan, if you measure this length, I can calculate the correct shaft size that will hold your encoder in place.
I found this picture and it is much easier to understand than previous pictures I've posted.
 

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Dan,

Just so everyone knows what you and I discuss, here is a common way for us to install the encoder disc.
We manufacture a post. In this case it was designed to thread into the camshaft. There is a small aluminum "base" that has a countersunk hole.
The base is installed onto the stainless post, the encoder sits on top, and a "cap" is placed over the encoder disc (similar to an Oreo cookie).
Since the shaft is drilled and tapped for a screw, the entire assembly is sandwiched together once the timing is set.

This is for a retail customer, and is not adjustable by design, so there can be no mistakes made during installation. We could design an adjustable post for prototyping if needed.

The first picture shows the "underside" of the base where it fits snugly over the stainless steel post.
 

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That's a clever design Paul, and takes any guess work out of installing the trigger wheel, though it was very easy before.

My build in this thread is such that I have to set the wheel at a custom depth on the fly because I have adapted your 1000 housing to fit the 1200 head.
This new stud could maybe work if I adapted the module and housing depth to match it.
 
The latest:

Making a stud.

1/2" bolt, cut the head off:

Mill end down to encoder wheel diameter:


2 washers to take up some slack:

Drill and tap that end for a bolt:

Milling 1/2" bolt to 8mm for threading:

Ways to go yet:

Was going good until threading the post, when it snapped.

I know what I did wrong so the next one will be good.
 

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