lghollow
New member
I am getting alot of static on the radio. I tried new speakers and that didn't help. Anyone out that got any ideas why the clarion radio would have so much static?
1980 GW GL1100 - Clarion Radio
- Thread starter lghollow
- Start date
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Welcome to the forums Igholow. Does the radio play nothing but static? Is the antenna lead securely attached to the splitter(can't think of the name and my PDF's are on the other PC)? Is the lead still in one piece? I'll bet something is loose.
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- Former '82 GL1100 "The Slug"
Ighollow, welcome to the site from New Jersey! :clapping:
Static is caused by bad connections and/or dust. Check your antenna connections first, then the ground connections on the radio and fuse box. If nothing shows up then the knobs are probably dirty (pots). Remove the knobs and with the battery disconnected shoot some electric clean into the pots and turn them while cleaning. Make sure that the cleaner is completely dry before putting power to the radio!
Good luck and keep us posted on the results! :cool!:
Static is caused by bad connections and/or dust. Check your antenna connections first, then the ground connections on the radio and fuse box. If nothing shows up then the knobs are probably dirty (pots). Remove the knobs and with the battery disconnected shoot some electric clean into the pots and turn them while cleaning. Make sure that the cleaner is completely dry before putting power to the radio!
Good luck and keep us posted on the results! :cool!:
the bike should have 2 grounds... one in the fairing and one under the shelter to the frame (battery -)... are you running aux lights and fogs?? and does this happen all the time? ... check grounds first.. (possible ground loop)
jjones0187
Member
check your antenna wire for continuity between the radio and antenna it could have a short, sound like your not getting very good radio signal? for example if you only getting one good clear channel you probably have either bad wire or bad antenna.
Welcome to the forum! Do you get static only when the bike is running or is it there all the time? Is the static on FM only or also on AM. If you are getting no reception on AM and static on FM, check your antenna cable. Check the connection where the antenna plugs into the radio and verify that it is seated fully. The other thing I would do is to examine the antenna cable closely for any crimps where the wire may have gotten pinched somewhere. The Clarion radio AM/FM selector switch has 2 positions for FM (Local/Distant). The first position to clockwise after AM is FM Distant, the second is FM Local. If you feel up to a road trip to middle TN, I could check it out for you. I have a couple of spare Clarion radios that we could swap out if need be.
Steve
Steve
do you have spare bases also?? a PO cut all the wires from the back of the base mount on mine.. making it useless.. have a radio in unknown working status and no way to try it..
I pretty sure that one of the Clarion I radios I have still has the base and connectors still attached to the tuner module that I know is working. Only thing that is wrong with that radio is I need to replace the pushbutton switches. I think I also have some Clarion II parts that I got by accident. I'll check and let you know.
Late, but here's my $.02. Everything they said above about checking connections plus be sure the antenna is mechanically solid, not wiggling around, and that it has a good ground. If it's only happening when the engine is running, the ignition or alternator could be causing it.
We could help more with more info. When does it happen?
Engine stopped, sitting still: connections and grounds
engine running, bike still: alternator or ignition
bike moving: bad connections
at home or everywhere? If only at home, the source is something outside the bike.
Is it constant crackle or random? Random when moving is very likely a bad connection. Constant when running might be ignition.
whine that varies with engine speed or unrelated to it? Whine that varies with engine rpm is alternator.
There are filters you can put int he line from the alternator to cut whine. Anyplace that sells car audio has them, maybe Radio Shack still does if they haven't taken them out to make room for cellphones. I miss the old Shack.
When you are checking connections, they can look ok but not be. It doesn't take much corrosion to cause trouble- a literally microscopic layer can be enough. Clean them as best you can. The tabs and pins in connectors are pain but I've found soaking the whole thing in white vinegar for a while does wonders. It's harmless to wires and paint and it's cheap. Put some on a sandwich bag or small cup and get the connector into it for a half hour to hour if it looks really bad. You'll see the crud in the vinegar. You can rinse with a bit of water but if you do blow dry immediately. Better to just shake it out and let it air dry before the next step:dielectric grease.
I am a HUGE fan of dielectric grease. You can get it at any auto parts store in tiny packets for small jobs or big tubes. Before you put that nice clean connector back together fill it with the grease. It keeps out moisture, even damp air. I promise in 5 years it will still look like it does now. I put it on every electrical connection of every vehicle I have and even outdoor light bulb bases on the house. I even put a dab on the terminal of the spark plugs. I have no corrosion or stuck bulbs. I only have to do it once per socket, it stays so a replacement can go in dry. Get some!
We could help more with more info. When does it happen?
Engine stopped, sitting still: connections and grounds
engine running, bike still: alternator or ignition
bike moving: bad connections
at home or everywhere? If only at home, the source is something outside the bike.
Is it constant crackle or random? Random when moving is very likely a bad connection. Constant when running might be ignition.
whine that varies with engine speed or unrelated to it? Whine that varies with engine rpm is alternator.
There are filters you can put int he line from the alternator to cut whine. Anyplace that sells car audio has them, maybe Radio Shack still does if they haven't taken them out to make room for cellphones. I miss the old Shack.
When you are checking connections, they can look ok but not be. It doesn't take much corrosion to cause trouble- a literally microscopic layer can be enough. Clean them as best you can. The tabs and pins in connectors are pain but I've found soaking the whole thing in white vinegar for a while does wonders. It's harmless to wires and paint and it's cheap. Put some on a sandwich bag or small cup and get the connector into it for a half hour to hour if it looks really bad. You'll see the crud in the vinegar. You can rinse with a bit of water but if you do blow dry immediately. Better to just shake it out and let it air dry before the next step:dielectric grease.
I am a HUGE fan of dielectric grease. You can get it at any auto parts store in tiny packets for small jobs or big tubes. Before you put that nice clean connector back together fill it with the grease. It keeps out moisture, even damp air. I promise in 5 years it will still look like it does now. I put it on every electrical connection of every vehicle I have and even outdoor light bulb bases on the house. I even put a dab on the terminal of the spark plugs. I have no corrosion or stuck bulbs. I only have to do it once per socket, it stays so a replacement can go in dry. Get some!
