1985 GL1200L wiring

[AnOtherOleGoat]

DOES anyone have or know where I can find a GOOD easy to use wiring diagram, paper if possible but electronic will be OK.
I'm finding the limited has quite a few things different from other models.
AND if someone has suggestions: (The way this started was)
When I got the bike it had an electrical issue that caused the electronics to act odd: The cruse light and other lights on the dash console blinked rapidly - past owner thought it was in the radio. said he thought the tape deck had some smoke coming from the player - it was also burning the dog bone at the starter solenoid. It would start and run then the fuse would go out.
Got it home: pulled the radio, changed both dog bones one at the starter relay to a fuse like is in the fuse box, the other behind the battery is now a automatic breaker.
It starts when I press the start button it cranks and when I let off the buttons it dies. But the fuses don't burn out.
I have taken the ignition switch out cleaned it and tested it it seems fine.
Everything I fix electrical I have soldered and shrink tubed it. I'm trying to do it right as I go.
I'm not sure but I think it's a ground, but dang there's a lot of connectors.
That's sorta where I'm at now!

 

[Ansimp]

Sounds like the ignition feed circuit/fuse/ switch is faulty. In cases like this I would use a relay in the circuit to provide good clean power.

 

[backlander]

Look in the gallery, Honda factory electrical manual is in there covering 84 thru 86 all models. Will tell you how to troubleshoot your problem.

 

[AnOtherOleGoat]

Thanks Ansimp and Backlander
I think the switch is OK. Had it out, cleaned it and tested the circuits, power goes where it is supposed to.
Never put a relay in, other than replacing one. Oh and where do you put all the extra stuff, it's tight in the this thing.
When I get back in today I'll check out the factory manual.

 

[backlander]

This problem has come up before, if my memory serves me right (yeah, right) it involved loosing the ground to the coils when the starter button was released either through the starter button or the kill switch. Happy Hunting !!

 

[clothednblack]

I have a schematic book (everything electrical) for the '85 1200 Ltd. Unfortunately, I'm not willing to part with it but I could scan some pages for you and send them through email if that helps. Let me know.

 

[AnOtherOleGoat]

Thanks to all you guy's
So I'm looking for something between the key switch and the coils, a lost or weak ground.
The diagrams I have tell where it is in the harness doesn't tell where the grounds are terminated on the bike.
ClothednBlack thanks I'll take you up on that!

What if I took a video of the startup dieing and posted it on my youtube site? :headscratch: Just thinking!

 

[dan filipi]

AnOtherOleGoat » 2 minutes ago[/url]":39k9215o]
Thanks to all you guy's
So I'm looking for something between the key switch and the coils, a lost or weak ground.
The diagrams I have tell where it is in the harness doesn't tell where the grounds are terminated on the bike.
ClothednBlack thanks I'll take you up on that!

What if I took a video of the startup dieing and posted it on my youtube site? :headscratch: Just thinking!

Pics are great, video's are even greater! :rocks:

 

[clothednblack]

Thanks to all you guy's
So I'm looking for something between the key switch and the coils, a lost or weak ground.
The diagrams I have tell where it is in the harness doesn't tell where the grounds are terminated on the bike.
ClothednBlack thanks I'll take you up on that!

What if I took a video of the startup dieing and posted it on my youtube site? :headscratch: Just thinking!

Let me know if this helps, or what else you need.
https://copy.com/cHWn97GNS0OQg8JD

 

[clothednblack]

Added the Ground distribution schematics, I believe I covered the section you were looking for

 

[AnOtherOleGoat]

Thanks ClothednBlack, this is a lot easier to understand.
Oh and it does have pictures!
I've printed them, for this evening after work.

 

[clothednblack]

You're welcome and good luck

 

[AnOtherOleGoat]

Sorry Guys, having a problem finding issue! Still going at it, but it's a slow go (some because of open carport and 100 days). Do wires burn into? I've seen where connector plugs burn into, but haven't heard anything about wires burning into.

 

[Ansimp]

AnOtherOleGoat » Tue Jun 30, 2015 7:53 am[/url]":2p1wba8p]
Sorry Guys, having a problem finding issue! Still going at it, but it's a slow go (some because of open carport and 100 days). Do wires burn into? I've seen where connector plugs burn into, but haven't heard anything about wires burning into.

Yes!

 

[slabghost]

yes wires will burn in two and sometimes rot within the insulation. Only way to know is verify continuity or not.

 

[Tom_Charlton]

Check the ignition resistor.

Remember the old Chryslers that had dropping resistors? They would start, but would die when the key was returned to the "run" position because the resistor was bad. Key in "Start" position would feed 12V to coil; engine would start. Releasing the key to the "Run" position would kill the engine if you had a bad resistor.

Another possibility is the starter button/switch. Make sure it is allowing power to get to the resistor when the button is released. :headscratch:

 

[AnOtherOleGoat]

Hey Guys.
Wow, kerosene and red devil lye, seems like an answer to my problems!!!! Seems ever time I turn on the switch a new issue jumps up.
Have a tender jr on cycle, voltage changes when I try to start (normal)
I was trying to check a few things with switch on.
Here is what I found
Fuse Switch on Switch off
1 .34 13.28
2 .34 13.28
3 12.68 13.28
4 .30 13.28
5 .30 13.28
6 .21 13.14
7 12.20 12.93
8 .20 .15
9 12.58 13.28
10 12.57 13.28
11 12.57 13.28
Voltage difference in switch on and off is different (13.28 & 12.57) because I hit the start button before I checked switch on.
I have the radio out and height level pump unplugged.
Where can I find an ignition switch, is there a good aftermarket switch?
Do I sound panicked yet?
I just want to go crusin'

 

[Ansimp]

You could always bypass your ignition switch using relays that way it is only milliamperes going through the ignition switch and all the high current is switched through the relays. :yes:

 

[slabghost]

Good suggestion. Your results are pretty normal for 30 year old wiring and switches. If you went through everything and cleaned tightened (where possible) all the contacts and connections end voltages will be closer to full voltage but some will still be lost due to resistance in the old wiring. Liberal use of dielectric grease will keep contacts from degrading from corrosion.

 

[AnOtherOleGoat]

Thanks guys
Not sure how to do a relay.
I start trying to figure that out monday