'83 Floats sinking me

[dalesmith]

Hi everyone. I am looking to you experts out there for help on a flooding 1983 GL1100I. I have just rebuilt the 4 carbs. I have set the floats to the recommended 15.5mm and now have found that the carbs ar flooding to the point of "spraying" raw fuel out of the tail pipes. I had verified that the floats were free and easy moving, the float valve did close prior to putting the carbs on the bike.The carbs are the VB48C's that the bike is to have, but something is not right.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Dale

 

[dan filipi]

How do the needles and seat look?

I have a non Honda needle and seat in one carb. It want's to flood now.

Not looking forward to pulling the rack again but gotta do it

 

[dalesmith]

Hi Dan, thanks for the reply. All of the needles and seats looked great. I had had the carbs rebuilt a couple of years ago, but the woork seemed less than professional, never ran right. When I went to verify the float settings I found that the floats were st to approx. 25+mm. I checked several sources that all said 15.5mm was the correct setting. I had to make a VERY large adjustment and I verified it many times as I didn't "feel" right about it. I have checked the carbs by shutting off the petcock and draining down the levels. At startup she idled and ran very well, 'til I opened up the petcock and shortly thereafter she choked and died.
If not 15.5mm any ideas of what the setting should be?

Thank you so much.

Dale

 

[dan filipi]

15.5 is right, measured from the point the bowl gasket sits to the bottom side of the float.

Did it run OK at 25mm?
It should have been running VERY lean if at all at that setting.

 

[mcgovern61]

Dale, you have the right setting, but I agree with Dan. My needles and seats looked okay too. But when I opened the petcock with the carbs on my floor #1 and #2 leaked. I pulled them and recleaned the needles and seats until they did not leak. I ended up setting #1 at 17.5mm to get it to seat and not leak. I have not had any problems in 3600 miles. Prior to that, they would leak into the crankcase when it sat even with the petcock closed. :cheeky:

Check out this thread on how it all went:

viewtopic.php?f=23&t=314&hilit=carb+experts

 

[dan filipi]

I didn't mention earlier that I did rebuild the carbs and had a problem with #2 flooding to the point I had to "cheat" the float level lower like mcgovern did.
Lasted a couple years anyhow but time to pull it down and change it out.

 

[slabghost]

Cut one end off a Q tip and chuck it in a drill. Put a dab of copper polish on the tip and lightly drill on the seat to polish. Polish the end of the needle too with out o ring if it has one. Check O ring carefully for any cuts or flat spots if it has the o ring. Clean off the polish with spray carb cleaner. Reassemble and check for leaks. Then adjust floats if needed.

 

[RBG]

Bench test..like this.caps off and watch the throat..like they said clean the seats, check the needle tips..OEM?? Saves taking them on and off the bike. The gas source should actually be 6' above the carbs to get 2-3 lbs. of pressure but this works for me..you can even hookup a big syringe and force gas into the carbs..to get higher pressure to test.

 

[danf]

Mine flooded really bad awhile ago, the needle valves got hung up somehow and gas was coming out the exhaust, freaked me out, I removed the carbs moved the needles around checked everything then bench tested as mentioned above, the gas should fill up your float bowls then stop, the best thing is to have is a clear tube, as shown, look inside the air chamber and if gas is coming in there you still have a leak, if not you fixed it..

 

[slabghost]

Any progress? :read:

 

[RBG]

Another bench test trick is to "screw" 1/4" clear tubing into all four drain holes(should seal and not leak)..tie the tubes up so the ends are at least above the carb bowl edges..put gas in..check level of gas in the tubes..should all be the same and just below the edge of the bowl lip..if your floats are set correctly...if not adjust accordingly

 

[danf]

Another bench test trick is to "screw" 1/4" clear tubing into all four drain holes(should seal and not leak)..tie the tubes up so the ends are at least above the carb bowl edges..put gas in..check level of gas in the tubes..should all be the same and just below the edge of the bowl lip..if your floats are set correctly...if not adjust accordingly

Wow, I like that trick, I never knew that one, I'm gonna to try that next time, Good one thanks.. :grin:

 

[dalesmith]

Good morining everyone.
Thanks again for ALL of your suggestions and advice. I have been running thru all of the checks and have found that I need to try replacing all 4 float seats and needles. I will be looking for the OEM replacements. I was having troubles determining the guilty carb(s). I drained the acrbs, removed the bowls and leaned the rack at an angle (inverted) that should have closed the needles. I then attached a hose to the fuel input and blew air (my lungs) into the carbs. I found that the #1 and #3 carbs were "intermitant" (sp). This method was much cleaner and quicker, than the fuel test. If I fully inverted the rack all carbs would set and I could not blow thru. This shoud get me closer to fixing the problem, and if this method works ,I will confirm with a "wet" test prior to re-installing to the bike.
Also on another note. Has anyone had any experience with DB Electronics and their starters? I orderd one and will see if it bites me or not. The $74 pricetag was compelling (but scary)

Thanks again and I'll keep you posted.

Dale

 

[danf]

Good morining everyone.
Thanks again for ALL of your suggestions and advice. I have been running thru all of the checks and have found that I need to try replacing all 4 float seats and needles. I will be looking for the OEM replacements. I was having troubles determining the guilty carb(s). I drained the acrbs, removed the bowls and leaned the rack at an angle (inverted) that should have closed the needles. I then attached a hose to the fuel input and blew air (my lungs) into the carbs. I found that the #1 and #3 carbs were "intermitant" (sp). This method was much cleaner and quicker, than the fuel test. If I fully inverted the rack all carbs would set and I could not blow thru. This shoud get me closer to fixing the problem, and if this method works ,I will confirm with a "wet" test prior to re-installing to the bike.
Also on another note. Has anyone had any experience with DB Electronics and their starters? I orderd one and will see if it bites me or not. The $74 pricetag was compelling (but scary)

Thanks again and I'll keep you posted.

Dale

Great idea Dale, I might just give that a try next time, thanks.. :grin:

 

[dan filipi]

Also on another note. Has anyone had any experience with DB Electronics and their starters? I orderd one and will see if it bites me or not. The $74 pricetag was compelling (but scary)


Dale

Mixed reports on the net and other forums about them.
I would say more satisfied than not.

 

[slabghost]

Floats fixed? :whistling:

 

[dalesmith]

Hi all. just an update on the carb fiasco. I determined that the float seats were not shuting off. I have ordered OEM seat/needle replacements and have yet to get them installed. 30 deg in the garage right now. I have also found that the rear brake piston was "stuck" and those parts are on their way also. By the time I get all of this done I should be well on my way to a "new" bike. Can't wait.
Thanks for checking up on me.

Dale

 

[danf]

Hi all. just an update on the carb fiasco. I determined that the float seats were not shuting off. I have ordered OEM seat/needle replacements and have yet to get them installed. 30 deg in the garage right now. I have also found that the rear brake piston was "stuck" and those parts are on their way also. By the time I get all of this done I should be well on my way to a "new" bike. Can't wait.
Thanks for checking up on me.

Dale

Dale thanks for the idea with the air and the floats, I tried it and sure enough I found a leak in one of the seats, I was going to buy some new ones for all four but I tried something off the wall, I am always doing something different, I took a small drill bit, just a little larger than the hole in the seat and I turned it by hand just ever so gently until I worked a new opening well I like chamfered it a hair, crazy right, didn't take but maybe just a hair off the top edge of the hole tried it again and it seemed to work..I won't recomend this to anyone but it's something I did and gas isn't leaking anymore..Maybe you can play with this while your waited for the new ones to arrive..it will be fun if it works for you..You've got nothing to lose now with them..by doing this the needle rubber sits just a hair lower on seat.. :grin: Again this is unprofessional but fun and really not recommended as a proven fix..but I fixed mine ha ha

 

[joedrum]

hmm beav you have good touch that always helps ..... :mrgreen:

 

[danf]

Thank's Joe, I just thought of another way a guy can test these seats and their float needle's , this will most certainly work I bet ya, remove the flippen thing, that's right remove the seat and dry it up good, place your needle in the hole and fill it with water or gas using a eye dropper or what ever but be careful not to over fill it, maybe you could place the seat on a paper towel on a flat surface and then watch for leaks, do you think the weight of the needle will seal it enough..? maybe a guy could lay a pencil over the top of the needle to keep in place and add a little pressure..What do you guy's think?