83 GL1100 ignition troubles

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madmark15

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May 31, 2013
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Location
Port Orchard, WA
Sorry this is so long winded, but I can’t seem to make it any shorter…
So, I just finished rebuilding the carbs, and she started right up. Thanks Randakk for the great rebuild kit and Howard Halasz for the guide. I also bought the colortune along with the Morgan carbtune, so I could finish the job. I’m amazed that she ran at all with the things I’m finding that need attention.
A little history since I bought her last year. I did a front end renewal, rebuilt the brakes and forks, new tires, changed all the fluids, and finally got to ride a little before summer ended. I didn’t realize I had bought as much of a project as I did. I’m still fairly new to Goldwings but, Experience is the best teacher…
Anyway, I still have a slight misfire/backfire while she’s cold, but it seemed to disappear once she warmed up. Which is what she did before I did the carbs. So, I figured I’d adjust the idle mixture with the colortune. I got set up and found out I had no spark at #1, took a breather, re-installed the plug, got my timing light out to check all the cylinders. I have spark at all the plug wires. I then disconnected each plug wire to see what response I’d get. #1 didn’t affect the engine at all, and #3 only caused a slight stumble in the idle. #2 & #4 definitely affected the idle when disconnected. I then decided to check the resistors in each cap, only to find #1 & #3 are missing the springs behind the resistors. Along the way, I found that #2 & #4 caps are cracked and need to be replaced.
After doing some searching here I’m a little more confused than when I started. I found a thread that says the ’82 & ’83 don’t have resistor caps because they run resistor plugs (DPR8EA-9). As far as I know the ignition components are all original. Any help would be great:
What type of caps do I need to order to make this right?
Could the missing parts / weak/no spark on the 1/3 side be causing the cold idle misfire/backfire?
If I use resistor caps, should I use non resistor plugs, or stick with Honda recommended?
Thanks,
Mark
 
The other guys will be able to help you more, but I know guys switch parts around on these old girls so that may be why you found the resistor caps on the wires. That is the correct plug and I'd stick with it.

~O~
 
your bike classic example of how many things can be wrong on a 30yr old bike ....resistor caps ends have taken out more coils and wires and even deeper into oldwing ignitions ...there a lot who want the resistors gone because of the problems they bring to table regardless of it being stock ...buying a resistor plug makes it just fine ...and when you change plugs you get a new resistor ...just plain better system of how to have it period ...some don't use resistors at all for better spark in older ignition set ups and don't have radios and stuff ...the carbs may have been dirty and bad but it sure didn't fix this part ....its up to you how you want to rebuild a 30yr old ignition ..
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=83953#p83953:2ucwrqxk said:
Omega Man » Thu Jun 06, 2013 8:48 am[/url]":2ucwrqxk]Why not just try new wires? Not some old OEM from flebay but some new ones form the auto parts store. It could be a very cheap fix. :yes:

~O~
Agreed.
Used from eBay a waste of money.
 
Okay, so I ordered a set of NGK caps (pn XD05F) from oldbikebarn. Hopefully I'll see them this weekend. I'm also going to get some solid core wire from my local NAPA parts house. Since the plug caps are resistor caps, should I go with resistor or non-resistor plugs?
 

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