'83 GL1100A rear brakes squel.

[src68]

hi all, its the problem child. :head bang: first want to say thank you for this site and all teh people in it. I have read and learned alot. one problem. i learn mostly (and better) by videos. ilooked at the video tutorial section and nothing on replacing brakes, and all that it entails. Does anyone have, or know of a video that has this info? if not... one site i want to said you ahve to take the seat off, and the saddle bag. is this true? anyway around that?

i know i need to replace the brakes on teh rear cuz everytime i use the peddle brake, it squeelzes... if not video, then very detailed instructions, and then i will give a go. OR if anyone in MN around the north subs know of a very reliable cycle shop that fixes older bikes (just incase i can't do it myself) i would appreciat it.

thanks again... :salute:

 

[AApple]

You do need to remove the left side saddlebag....which also entails removing the seat to get to the wiring connectors for the lights on the bag. Once the saddlebag is off, the caliper & brake pads are right there, easy to access. The seat is held on by two 12mm bolts, one on each side of the seat, just to the rear of center. With the bolts out, push the seat to the rear, and it will slide out of the slot for the front tab of the seat.
With the seat off, you can get to the connectors for the wiring. They are(or should be) color coded, so no worry about re-connecting.
Take the saddlebag lid off, and there are two 10mm bolts on the top/side, and two 10mm bolts on the very bottom. Remove these four bolts, and lift the saddlebag out, pulling the wiring harness thru at the same time.
Don't know if that helps, but...I'm not much of a technical writer! :blush:
You can also find the info in the Service Manual.

GL1100 80-83 Service Manual Page 19-7

• WindNWing
• Oct 16, 2012

GL1100 80-83 Service Manual Page 13-9

• WindNWing
• Oct 16, 2012

hth

 

[Ansimp]

Is the squeal all the time or only when you apply the brake?

 

[src68]

Ansimp » Wed Jun 19, 2013 3:55 pm[/url]":2w0so4q6]Is the squeal all the time or only when you apply the brake?

only when applying the brakes.

 

[src68]

AApple » Wed Jun 19, 2013 11:27 am[/url]":3iir7ei0]You do need to remove the left side saddlebag....which also entails removing the seat to get to the wiring connectors for the lights on the bag. Once the saddlebag is off, the caliper & brake pads are right there, easy to access. The seat is held on by two 12mm bolts, one on each side of the seat, just to the rear of center. With the bolts out, push the seat to the rear, and it will slide out of the slot for the front tab of the seat.
With the seat off, you can get to the connectors for the wiring. They are(or should be) color coded, so no worry about re-connecting.
Take the saddlebag lid off, and there are two 10mm bolts on the top/side, and two 10mm bolts on the very bottom. Remove these four bolts, and lift the saddlebag out, pulling the wiring harness thru at the same time.
Don't know if that helps, but...I'm not much of a technical writer! :blush:
You can also find the info in the Service Manual.

GL1100 80-83 Service Manual Page 19-7

• WindNWing
• Oct 16, 2012

GL1100 80-83 Service Manual Page 13-9

• WindNWing
• Oct 16, 2012

hth

Thank you. you think a novas person could handle this? or should i just take it in. i get very nervous when i try to fix something i never have done before....

 

[Ansimp]

More than likely it is poor pad material (if it is not worn out and you are hearing metal to metal) or a rock is stuck in the pad material. Have a look at your rotor from both sides and if you can see some shiny metal grooving occurring then it is worn out pads.

 

[src68]

Ansimp » Wed Jun 19, 2013 9:48 pm[/url]":1h715oca]More than likely it is poor pad material (if it is not worn out and you are hearing metal to metal) or a rock is stuck in the pad material. Have a look at your rotor from both sides and if you can see some shiny metal grooving occurring then it is worn out pads.

i can see shiny metal grooving... so will i need to replace the rotor too? i felt it, and it feels smooth still.
oh, and thank you for you response.

 

[AApple]

If you have the basic tools, and some patience, there's no reason you couldn't do this job yourself. If you feel like it might be a little too much to tackle, then by all means have someone with knowledge take care of it for you. Truth is, it'll prolly take longer to get the seat and bag off than to actually change the pads.
A little grooving in the rotor is not a sure sign it needs to be replaced....it just depends on how bad the scoring is. If the brake pads have worn all the way down to metal, and it's been ridden like that for a while, the rotor may well be trashed. Just need to get a good eyeball on both sides, and see what it looks like, and maybe take a measurement of the thickness.
For what it's worth, the front brakes on my '81 have been squealing for a couple of years now...mostly due to dirt/debris getting in the pads, but it still stops just fine. If you remove your pads, and they are still nice and thick, you can sand them a little with an 80 grit paper diagonally, and that will eliminate the squeal, normally. The pads can just get a glazing on them over times, and make noise like that.
Bottom line is, you need to have a look and see where the problem is. :good:

 

[joedrum]

no sounds to me like its fine.....no sense in doing more than you have too and the cost involved....yes what apple says is spot on

 

[dan filipi]

My rear is grooved quite a bit but the rotor thickness measured at the outside edge is thicker than the minimum recommended.
I plan to get every last bit of remaining life out of it which means to me I'll run it as long as it stops the bike.

 

[mcgovern61]

dan filipi » Thu Jun 20, 2013 3:11 pm[/url]":3bm0i919]I plan to get every last bit of remaining life out of it which means to me I'll run it as long as it stops the bike.

Isn't that like an oxymoron on a 32 year old piece of machinery that would normally only have a normal design lifespan of approximately 20 years? :hihihi:

 

[Ansimp]

I would try some new pads if the rotor is above minimum thickness, the thing to remember is the disc surface needs to be smooth and unglazed to provide maximum braking effect!

 

[joedrum]

I turn my rotors once while grinding the surface with my hand held grinder and sanding disks ....but I relies most don't have precission tool holder hands and years of experience .....but it is that simple....... id do as ansimp said.....

 

[src68]

ok, i can stop but, it really squeals LOUD. but, i don't want to replace, (or take seat off or anything else) unless i HAVE TO.... so please, consenses says?? what should i do, replace them or as long as it stops... ignore the big time squeaking..

thx

i have other things like the hand brake switch i have to do, and that radio problem i posted....

 

[dan filipi]

Mine have squealed really loud then stopped squealing for no apparent reason.
I'd just ride it as long as there's pad left.

 

[slabghost]

Just pulling the brake pads and scuffing them with sandpaper may cure the squeal.

 

[Ansimp]

Maybe a couple of big applications will get rid of the squeal. Please make sure first that you are not wearing metal on metal (worn pads etc) by at least checking the discs for any highly polished spots. I am not sure how hard it is on your bike to visually check pad thickness but that is supposed to be part of all pre-ride checks.

 

[src68]

Ok, tomrrow i am replacing the back brakes... whish me luck... :shock: :beg:

i am going to follow step by step in the how to section here. I looked last ngiht, and could barely see any pads.
a little nervous... but want/going to do it. :music:

 

[backlander]

Just want to emphasis an important point and don't ask me how I know this. :shock: When you go to remove the old pads, the two slide pins may be stuck, DO NOT hammer :builder: on the end of them, they will flatten out and you will end of having to cut them off to get them out. That's my story and I'm sticking to it. :blush: