83 interstate fuel/temp gauge

[goldflash]

Hi Can anyone give me some pointers on how to get rid of condensation on the inside of the Temp and fuel gauges I can hardly see into them .Also I need to check the output of the charging system. When I picked up the bike the battery was bone dry but would still run with a jump,amazing. Thanks for any input GF

 

[RBG]

Wife's hair drier, or eco way leave it out in the sun on a dry day and then try to seal it up with caulking..but if you live in a wet place..good luck..

voltage..put a meter on the battery at idle shodl should 13 V's at 3,000 rpm's 13.8 or so if over 14.5 it's over charging..regulator probably bad.. maybe why the battery boiled off to dry???

 

[joedrum]

plus one on all said above

 

[chilidawg]

First thing to do is junk the three yellow wire plug in front of the battery, even if it looks good! It doesn't matter which wire goes to which as the three AC phases are gonna get changed into DC at the rectifier/regulator anyway, jump it out and leave three loops in the wires, then get you an Amprobe and place it around each indiviual loop, 50 amps on each wire/phase is good @ 3000 rpm, but if it's above 40 and they are all within +/- 5% of each other then your alternator is OK, look. I know this is not in the book, but it for )@mn sure works for me. And I stand by it!

 

[AApple]

50 amps on each wire/phase is good @ 3000 rpm, but if it's above 40 and they are all within +/- 5% of each other then your alternator is OK, look. I know this is not in the book, but it for )@mn sure works for me. And I stand by it!

I agree with cutting the connector out, and soldering the wires. I will have to respectfully disagree with the stator being good simply because you have 50amps on all three of those wires @ 3000rpm. The stator can be grounded internally, and still put out 50 volts on each of the three yeller wires. Ax me how I know this...go ahead...ax me.... :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :rant: :smilie_happy:

I'd say check the voltage at the battery with it running with a volt/multimeter, and see what kind of charge it's putting to the battery. Loose connections, corrosion, and other gremlins can effect charging voltage. Best to see what ya have first, and then go from there. :mrgreen:

 

[mcgovern61]

AApple would know too! He's had every type of gremlin test on almost every part on his bike! :hihihi:

(Told ya to get rid of dem Gremlin bells, ya just attrakin them!)

(I think he does all these repairs just for our benefit and I personally want to thank him for his sacrifice!)

 

[dan filipi]

jump it out and leave three loops in the wires, then get you an Amprobe and place it around each indiviual loop, 50 amps on each wire/phase is good @ 3000 rpm, but if it's above 40 and they are all within +/- 5% of each other then your alternator is OK,

50 amps on each leg?
The stator is only 25 amps so how can we get a reading of 50, unless you mean 50 Volts?

 

[AApple]

I think he meant volts, too. :blush:

AApple would know too! He's had every type of gremlin test on almost every part on his bike! :hihihi:

(Told ya to get rid of dem Gremlin bells, ya just attrakin them!)

(I think he does all these repairs just for our benefit and I personally want to thank him for his sacrifice!)

Hey Gerry....I'm all about sacrificing my sanity for the good of the group.... :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy:

 

[chilidawg]

jump it out and leave three loops in the wires, then get you an Amprobe and place it around each indiviual loop, 50 amps on each wire/phase is good @ 3000 rpm, but if it's above 40 and they are all within +/- 5% of each other then your alternator is OK,

50 amps on each leg?
The stator is only 25 amps so how can we get a reading of 50, unless you mean 50 Volts?

I can't asnwer that, I never knew the rated output of the alternator. All I know is, that I use a calibrated Fluke clamp meter that measures the magnetic field around around a wire via an integrated toroid and gives you a reading in amps and thats what I've always come up with, now maybe the meter is designed and built for greater voltages and that is included in it's calculation, like I say I don't know, but what I look for is more consistancy across all three phases rather than an actual figure and the whole thing is just a easy maintenance item to the check output on a normally running alternator over time and not a way to troubleshoot a bad one.

 

[AApple]

I have an amp clamp for my scope..I may hook it up just to see what kinda amperage it sees on each of the wires. Now I'm curious! :yes:

 

[dan filipi]

I'm curious too.

 

[mwbill37841]

opcorn: opcorn: opcorn: :read: :whistling:

 

[chilidawg]

So did the curious try my method of confirming the operation of a working alternator? I appear to be the only one that uses it and it's just so easy, like I said before don't look for actual figures as the volts may not be compatable with your amprobe (the AC frequency most definately won't as it will go up and down as you rev the motor,) but just look for consistancy at certain RPM's. I tell you. It works!!!

 

[AApple]

Unfortunately, I have not had time to check mine. Sometimes life gets in the way of havin fun.... :crying: But I will check it next chance I have....I gotta know. opcorn: