84 1200 interstate brake bleed tips

[crowesnest3]

So I had a soft handbrake so smart me opens up the master and I goes to do the bleed thing and hey I didn't know there are tricks to perform vs just regular old bleeding! So now I've lost the entire prime, "pumping" the lever ain't getting it and will be picking up a vacuum bleed tool tomorrow as is suggested in the manual. Meanwhile, anybody got any tips to be aware of for bleeding the lines and getting my brakes back ...... they were working pretty good it was that soft feel in the front brake that got me started .... actually front brake really didn't lock down regardless of pressure exerted. Master was low, don't see any leaking anywhere, fluid in master thinking pretty old, scum attached to side of resevoir at fluid level, thats been cleaned out. Thinking maybe I should just blow all the fluid out of the rear system too and start anew. Will be watching for your comments, can't get back to the brakes til maybe tomorrow night or next..... Crowe ..... :Egyptian:

 

[dan filipi]

Wise choice to bleed them clean.

After using a vacuum bleeder I won't even concider doing them the old pump, bleed, pump, bleed again.

On my front I swore I got all the air out until trying the vacuum bleeder. Firmed up the lever. Still not great but much better.

 

[slabghost]

My personal preference is to position calipers so bleeder is at the top center.attach a hose long enough to reach the bottom of a jar on the ground. Cover the end of the tube with brake fluid. Open bleeder and pump slowly keeping the reservoir filled until no bubbles come out of the tube. Tighten bleeder and pull lever to handle and tie it for at least a few hours. Then pump them up. Should be nice firm pull there after.

 

[mcgovern61]

Been there! Yes...bleed out the old fluid!!

The best trick I ever learned for bleeding these brakes and getting a firm handle everytime is to push the pistons all the way back in the calipers and clamp them in place. (BTW, I do use speed bleeder screws.) Add the bleeder hose to the bleeder and be sure the other end is in brake fluid (I use a one man brake bleeder kit that comes with the tubing and a small bottle with a magnet.) Top off the master, crack a speed bleeder screw a quarter turn and pull the handle slowly and release slowly. NEVER EVER let the the master get below half!! Watch the fluid coming out of the speed bleeder into the bottle and you will be shocked at how much air comes out. I often empty the bottle four or five times to flush the lines (brake fluid is cheap). Once no air bubbles, put the caliper back on and pump slowly until the pads make contact. Again, do not let the master get below half.

Works for me everytime and takes about 10 minutes total time!

 

[dan filipi]

Ok Gerry but what a hassle having to pull the caliper, especially the rear on an Interstate and Aspencade.

The speed bleeders don't work to get the air out with calipers in place?

 

[mcgovern61]

dan filipi » Sat Jul 20, 2013 11:29 am[/url]":k9tfxd8e]
Ok Gerry but what a hassle having to pull the caliper, especially the rear on an Interstate and Aspencade.

The speed bleeders don't work to get the air out with calipers in place?

They do to a point EXCEPT as Slab mentioned, there is that air pocket in the top of the caliper above the bleeder and there is no way that I know of to get the air out unless the bleeder is pointing straight up or the pistons are clamped. What is the hassle on the Interstate or Aspy that is different? Don't you have to remove the saddlebag to get to the caliper?

I know that I have been through the spongy pedal/brake handle mess and once I learned this method I have never had another problem. I have read numerous times about the leaving the front brake handle tied back overnight to get rid of air and guys having mild success. I would rather get it right the first time and not be worried about air. I have never used a vacuum unit and maybe they work well.

 

[joedrum]

hmmmmm sounds good jerry

 

[Ansimp]

Can't beat gravity and air's aversion to it :good:

 

[crowesnest3]

................. broke down and bought the tool, vacuum bleeder, just suck that air right on out. Only problem is that the brakes feel real good just sitting there, but when I went to pull out for a test run the hydro clutch went out!? Open the master and the bottom of it looked like the bottom of my honey pot, crystalized gunk, really old fluid! Pulled the clutch master ( pulled the brake master apart and cleaned that earlier, looked pretty much the same, but clutch really bad ) broke it down cleaned it and now it doesnt work, waiting on rebuild kit for both master and slave unit. Thinking was only working before cuz of all the goo in it .... but now I got the vacuum bleeder and will suck the air right on out after the rebuild! ...... Crowe ..... :Egyptian:

 

[slabghost]

try removing the hose from the master and hold a finger over the opening. Work the lever until you feel both pressure and suction. Then put the line on loose so it leaks.Pull the lever slowly a few times to get fluid in the line then tighten the line. You should be able to bleed it from there.