84 GL1200 engine problem

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aperry62

Active member
Joined
May 23, 2012
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Location
Peterson, IA
Ok guys, this bike is starting to be the bain of my existance. It's a pretty long story that can be read on the NAGF site (https://www.northamericangoldwings.com/v ... orum_id=25). To make a long story short the bike seems to have not bottom end at all and stumbles and grumbles below 1200rpm. Once you through the choke on or give it throttle it goes like a raped ape from about 1400rpm through redline.

The problem was originally very intermitent like once every few months but then it degreaded to a point where it is happening constantly. It first manifested itself right when I started it up on a cool night on my way home from work (had run beautifully on the way to work). The next time was a few months later when it was hotter than blazes and it happened immediately at a stop light after getting gas. So I shut it off waited a couple of minutes and then started it back up again. Rode fine all the way back to my parents place but did it again later in the afternoon (still hot). Later that fall I was getting ready to ride it to early morning practice and it did it to me again and made me late for rehearsal so I put it in the garage until I could figure what was wrong with it. At that point it was doing this problem all the time.

So I tore the covers off and started looking to see if it was possibly a fuel problem. I was thinking that maybe it had a vacuum leak on the under side of the carbs that was resulting in an ultra-lean situation until the main jets opened and riched the mixture. I sprayed carb cleaner all around the underside of the carbs to see it that would make the problem go away and sure enough there were several hoses with cracked ends. So I took the carbs off and rebuilt them using the kit from Randakk. They were a little dirty but cleaned up really well and all the passages were nice and clean. Reisntall carbs on the bike and no luck, same thing happening.
I checked for spark on each cylinder and they were all firing nicely and the engine would stumble when I took the plug boot off, and recover when reinstalled. I replaced ALL the vac hoses on the carbs so I know that there isn't any problems with the vac system. I finally gave up and took the old girl into my buddy at the motorcycle shop. My buddy started by scoping each cylinder and he noticed that the #4 cyclinder looke like it was cracked and had a chunk missing. Several explitives later I talked to his boss and asked him if he thought it was the same thing, which he did. So I told them to stop working on it and I would grab it and bring it home. I found a guy with a spare motor through the NAGF and GWRRA forum (same guy) and made arrangements to meet up and pick up the motor.
I then tore into the bike and took off the left cyl head to see the carnage for myself. Nothing except a little discoloration (I had looked through the scope and thought there was a piece missing also) and you could still see crosshatch marks. Well there goes that idea. I thought that I would still pickup the other motor because #1:it was a good deal and #2 it had another set of carbs along with it.

So I swapped out the original motor, put the donor motor in, put on the original set of carbs, fired it up and guess what.....SAME PROBLEM. I had to leave because the string of expletives coming out of my mouth and flying around was making it hard to breathe. So I thought, I have another set of carbs, I'll throw them on and see what happens. What happened was a fuel leak like i took a bunch of gas and dumped it out. Old carbs out, repair main leak, reinstall, new fuel leak from the left side transfer tube. Revist original carbs and blow out all the fuel passages again with the air compressor (didn't have it hooked up when I rebuilt them the first time) and reinstalled. Fire it up...SAME PROBLEM. Everyone that has posted about the same problem has had a plugged pilot jet. Mine are clear and set to 2.5 turns out from a soft seat.

Anyway I better quit typing before the keyboard melts. I took a video today and posted it on youtube https://youtu.be/p3UMdnY_mog

Here are links to the previous videos that I have posted throughout this project:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ypo0EvAgET0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vo7pV5VYxEo

I have tryed to sync the carbs also but really hard to do when it won't idle. When I have the guages hooked up all cylinders seem to be right close to each other. Compression in the cylinders was about 160ish on the original engine and probably a bit lower in the donor motor (I don't really trust my guage giving me an accurate reading but they were all about the same.

I would definately welcome any and all suggestions as to the cause of the problem. If you can't tell I'm getting pretty sick of this bike and if I can't get things figured out soon I might see how well it floats when I run it into the river!
 
i can se where it smooths out but it dosnt to run that good up top either ......past the timing being right ...it could be ignitiom box failure maybe ...anything that was common both motors being in the bike has to be cheif suspect in looking for whats wrong ....carbs also ...but the whole idea of you missing with them to no improvement makes me think ignition somewhere in the common wiring of the two motors
 
Yeah the donor motor does run as well as the original. Lots of other noises with that engine. The ignition module, is that the same this as the vacuum advance box?
 
The first thing I thought of was ignition timing is wrong, cross fire maybe.
I seriously doubt it's fuel related.

I'd have a close look at the plug wires, plug caps, coils.
Run it in the dark and look for arcing coming off any of these to ground or jumping to another wire.
Also consider there could be cracked plug caps. I had a cracked one could actually here a solid tapping.
 
yes it is i think the ignition bo ..but what dan said is true too wires pluge ends ...coils could all be suspect here to me ...id ont think it super big ...but the entire ignition could stand a redo probably
 
Since the problem did come and go makes me think maybe moisture related on the ignition then doing it all the time makes me think the arcing deteriorated the connection even further.
 
The first couple of times it happened I had just washed it, at the car wash (I know...don't use the car wash).

Is there a way that I can test the various ignition components before I go about buying new components?
 
You said one thing that caught my attention.
Everyone that has posted about the same problem has had a plugged pilot jet. Mine are clear and set to 2.5 turns out from a soft seat.

Air/Fuel adjustment screw is one thing. Idle JET or pilot jet or Low jet is another. Different people have use various terms. Does sound to me to be in the idle circuit. The idle JET controls all the fuel up to 1/4 throttle and then adds to the rest during acceleration. If gummed up or otherwise blocked in some way the low end will do all sorts of gyrations (including what you describe) until the other circuits can compensate with enough fuel.

You may need to remove the carbs and take the bowls off and pull all the JETS and make sure all the holes are clear. The pilot or Idle jet (at least on the 1100) has one hole in the center and several emulsion tube holes in the side that must be clear for proper function. I'm assuming that the 1200 carbs are similar here so take that in consideration.

I will add one other thing. I have found in previous carburetor jobs that people have left in an old Oring in the air/fuel adjustment passage. That needle should have in order a spring, washer, Oring. One carb I found had an extra old oring jammed down into the passage. Since you said you didn't blow out everything the first time do you think something of that nature could be possible stuck in there?
 
I suppose it could be ignition but really doubt it. It could be you need to adjust the fuel mix screws.
 
I'm telling you guys, I have been through the carbs with a fine tooth comb. I've pulled everything off the carbs, cleaned, rechecked, and reinstalled, twice. I can tell you that all the passages are clean and clear. These things look like new. I guess I'm gonna explore the ignition ideas as I have been through every part of the fuel system without any change. I just wish ghat the other set of carbs didn't leak so I could swap them in to confirm if it was indeed a fuel issue or not.
 
All I'm saying is, there's a lot of little "gotcha's" in the idle circuit. Bike idles fine enriched with the choke. sounds like it's about to puke with the choke off and idled down. Did you clear the little holes in the throat, did you check to see if cleaner spewed through each and every hole when blown out?

Not trying to be condescending at all, it's hard to trouble shoot through a computer and I know nothing at all about your experience with these carbs so don't take it wrong just trying to help. If air cutoff valve or accelerator pump not seated properly or 1 or the tiny orings not in position you can get this sort of problem. I still say it's in the idle circuit after listening to the thing run on the video. But then again, I've been know to be wrong.
 
What I refered to as the pilot jet was part group #5 in the diagram. (hopefully it loads and is readable) What is the correct name for this part group? Is this the idle jet? I guess that the pilot jet is actually part #22 and the main jet is part #21 and the main jet holder is part #18

Just to be clear, I pulled all of the jets out today and blew them out with air, verified all the little holes were clear and then blew out the passages that they seat into. I guess that there is a chance that there could be something left in there but I would have to doubt it. I appreciate all the ideas that have come forth so far, and will investigate every lead that has been given. Sorry if anything has come off as a bit "snippy," I am getting pretty frusterated with this process. But on the bright side I can probably take the carbs off blind folded with one arm tied behind my back now.
 

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"I am not a carb expert!" That is my statement and I am sticking with it!

However, sure seems like it is sucking air at idle or something is shorting out. Two different engines rules out valve and timing problems related to the engines. Carbs or ignition! My '81 engine sounded like that when I first got it and it turned out the carbs were WAY out of adjustment! I pulled them, did a dry sync and re-installed. Bike wouldn't idle before that and after the dry sync the idle was up at 1800 RPM! Lowered the idle and synced the carbs to great success.

Any chance that the carbs are actually dumping too much fuel at idle??
 
I guess it could be running rich at idle. I haven't pulled the plugs since I fired up this engine. I have noticed that it seemed to be running rich as the exhaust does have a bluish hue to it.
 
blue smoke is oil. Might be the new engine rings are a little stuck from sitting. Rich condition will be black smoke.
 
Yeah the donor motor was sitting for a while before I put it in. I will probably swap my original motor back in now that I've pretty much figured out that the motor wasn't the problem.
 
Sounds like you will have them out again before this is over. If you do check the size of the idle jet #22 on the diagram I've seen the hole damaged and opened up with a drill bit too large. That's one thing. The other is make sure the pistons for the needles are freely moving up and down with the needles smoothly running in and out of the needle jet. Other that that, without seeing them and how they operate dry I am out of ideas. Just listening to it, it sure sounds like something in the idle circuit because it seems to run fairly well above 2,000 but when you idle it back into the idle circuit only range is when it misbehaves.

Lots of smart folks around here, someone will have the light bulb snap on sooner or later. If it was me I would take that extra set of carbs, clean em up and stick them on just to see if the idle problem disappeared. I always keep the old Orings and gaskets when I rebuild one if they are anywhere near serviceable. That way If I need to fix say, a leak in a cross tube I can do it without ordering a part or worse an entire kit. Sometimes Randakk includes an extra or two. Anyway good luck stuff like this can really try your patience.
 

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