86 GL1200 Refresh and Mod project

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backlander

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Camden , AR
I decided to start a new thread on this project instead of clouding up the What did you do to your wing thread. Easier to keep it all together here. The reason for the project is to try to eliminate things that would leave me stranded on the side of the road due to not being able to find parts locally or would require a shop to repair, and to ease the burden on the many systems, like electrical, that are already near their limits. I am also attempting to do this as cheaply as possible. This is in anticipation of a planned four week journey of about 3000 miles to occur either later this fall or next spring. I will be camping out the entire time in the Arkansas state parks

I parked a whole bike on the centerstand and in two days it looked like a train had hit it. I got parts everywhere. All the body is removed and in various states of repair at this time, it may get a complete paint job but that decision will be made later. Cooling system has been removed completely which revealed a cracked recovery tank and a broken recovery tank tube fitting. Radiator has been tested, cleaned and is ready to be installed when the time comes. Timing belt covers removed and I finally found a product that could get rid of the clearcoat in about one minute. It's some powerful stuff but doesn't affect the aluminum. While checking the water pump there was end play at the rotor so off came the transmission over. The water pump was removed and the front bearing was in pieces and only three ball bearings could be found. Take it, this bike was only running up to about 3/4 on the temp gauge on 100 degree days when I started this tear down. Instead of ordering an OEM pump, I ordered a rebuild kit from Germany that should be here this week. I'm doing it this way to check the quality of his kits and hopefully to find a supplier of the mechanical seal, other than OEM.

The previous PO had hotwired the cooling fan to come on with the key switch, and in testing the thermoswitch, it was found to be bad. In the last four days, I've ordered in and returned 3 different ones and have researched fourteen others that other cross over lists say will work, but their not even close for the 1200 and some like the BWD can't be found at the parts houses. By crossreferenceing a Beck/Arnley to BWD to Import Direct I've come up with a switch that will plug into OEM harness if I can resolve the difference in thread size. This switch has smaller diameter thread size but is identical to the original,and it only cost 27.00

Sorry for the long post but now everyone is up to speed if their interested in the project. And I have tons of pictures. This will probally take two or three months to finish. I ain't in no hurrry, I'm retired. :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy:
 
I will never brag about having a wonderful Monday again, most of rest of the week went to hell in a hand basket. :head bang: First the good news that did not require a moderate amount of valium to accomplish.
1.) The coolant recovery tank and 90 degree fitting was repaired at a cost of about six dollars for the Loctite super glue ultra gel and a brass fitting. You have to clamp the crack and let cure, it's not instant but is a tuff bond. Simply screw the hoses onto the threads of this fitting and I couldn't pull the hoses off the fitting.
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2.) The gear position switch cable. For some reason, they (Honda) decided to make it impossible to unplug and remove the cable without removing most of the electronics under the tank cover, so you can get the trans cover out from under the bike, like to remove the water pump without standing on your head. :head bang: So I pull out my handy linemans pliers and snip the six wire cable into about six inches above the cover. This leaves enough cable attached to pull out to side of bike to solder the connector to that end and allows you to put the trans cover on the work bench to solder the connector on that end. These are the parts I got from Radio Shack to accomplish this. Of course it will have to weatherproofed with heat shrink and dialectric grease. It sure was nice not having to fight the cover under the bike to remove that stubborn dablamed gasket and will be so nice if I have to remove the cover again.
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3.) The cooling fan switch.(The reason for excess valium and adult beverages.) After two months of research on four different goldwing forums including this one, noting all the recommended automotive replacement numbers and reading every thread posted on the subject, I thought this would be a piece of cake. My fan ran whenever the key switch was turned on. I assumed (never again will I be guilty of assuming anything) the PO had hot wired it direct. When I removed the switch I couldn't find where the ground wire had been altered so I assumed (again) bad switch. Sure enough it tested continuity when it was supposed to be open, making the fan run all the time. So with my three pages of replacement switch numbers I have spent the better part two hours in each of three local parts houses looking up specs and ordering in different switches, none of which would screw into my gooseneck housing. The thread diameter was too small.
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Then after numerous phone calls to all the industrial supply houses and hydraulic supply houses and hardware stores I learned that although they are manufactured, no one stocks or can supply at a reasonable cost, a metric fine thread bushing so I can step the housing down to accept the replacement. :head bang: :head bang: I gave up, returned 100 dollars worth of switches and got my money back six days later. On the way home, I got a ticket for not wearing my seat belt, how could expect anything else considering. :swoon: Now get this, I soaked the original switch over night in vinegar, disasembled it per little beavers instructions,
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unstuck the pin, cleaned the bore, put one drop of Hoppes gun oil on pin, reassembled it, tested it and it works perfect.
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Put a new o-ring on it and it's ready to go. Thanks beav !!! I tested it a little different, no pan or water or antifreeze, small propane torch to heat bulb, takes bout thirty seconds to reach make/break temp, with no clean up and no static from the hen house if you happen to have a hen, which I don't. Had a big smile on my face for saving that 78.00 dollars for a new OEM switch :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: , then I remembered the ticket I just got. :rant: :rtfm:

Now I'm waiting on the water pump kit to arrive, it made it to New York on the eighth so it should be here anytime. I'm taking the day off.
 
I received the water pump rebuild kit last Monday but just now getting time to work on it. According to Octane's tear down of a water pump, there are supposed to be two collars on the shaft, one at mechanical seal and one in between the two bearings. Neither was on my pump when I tore it down. There's no way they can come off the shaft. Has anyone else tore one of these babys apart, and did you find the two collars I'm talking about? This is what mine looked like when I took it apart, the front bearing is all them pieces in upper left of picture.
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Nevermind, I figured it out. I guess their was a design change along the way because there are bearing seats built into pump housing that keep the bearings from wandering on the shaft. They also added a second circlip. Sorry. :blush: :head bang:
 
Really? :shock:
:mrgreen:

I wuz gunna say, there wuz no spacers/collars on mine. The problem I see with rebuilding is how to get the one snap-ring back on the shaft on the front side of the front bearing. It goes between the bearing and the seal, but the seal has to be pressed into the housing as the shaft is installed. I can't see how the heck that can be done, so this will be neat to see how you do it. If it works out, then I'll be able to rebuild my original pump, and have a spare!
Can I ax how much the rebuild kit cost?
 
The rebuild kit was 29.00 plus 8.50 shipping from Germany to my front door, Apple. I'm having same concerns about clip but haven't had a chance to sit down and figure it out yet. I'm trying to locate that mechanical seal here in the States, the rest of the parts can be found localy. I can buy just the seal for 19.00 plus shipping from this same guy. He's a good seller and does what he says, I had a confirmation of shipment the next morning with tracking number and it only took 10 days to get here. He's suppose to be sending me his detailed instructions if he got my message thru ebay. There seems to be some difference in the bakelite style pumps and the metal style as they require different kits also, but all the replacement OEM pumps from Honda with the metal implellar will fit the 1000 thru 1200. I believe the impellar may have to be removed and reinstalled to get that front clip put in but I don't know that it's even necessary to be there, what do you think?
 
:party: joe, I'm happier than a fresh slopped pig at this moment, I just assembled my water pump after figuring out how to get that internal circlip installed. The rebuild kit, every piece matched the old specs at least by my vernier caliper. I have succeeded in rebuilding my pump for a cost of 38.00 and a little labor. Them little engineers gonna have to get up earlier than that to fool this old hillbilly. :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: Dang, I'm tickled to death. I took pictures of the whole process, step by step and will fix up a tutorial for the site. :Egyptian: :Egyptian: All that's left is the test and I'm gonna do that with my own bike, Suzie Q.
 
slab, I don't know how to do that but the seller is listed as taunusrainer for the rebuild kit. I happen to find it when I did a search on ebay. His posts are in English and German and there are different kits for the bakelite and metal impeller styles so you have to read carefully to order the right one but it's not hard as he has a good discription of each kit. I got my water pump gasket set from another great seller, georgefix out of Florida and it includes the oil pump seal. It cost 20.99 plus 3.00 shipping and he ships quick also. Hope that helps, maybe someday I will learn how to copy them links.
 
Finally got the time to get started back on this project a couple days ago. Got the front trans cover and other front engine small parts painted and clear coated using the DupliColor paint and clearcoat recommended in Gerry's post. They turned out really nice. Installed the water pump I rebuilt and fastened the trans cover back on the engine. Removed the spark plugs and set the engine on T-1. The problem is locating the timing marks on the cam pulleys, at present all I can find are some little dots on the edge of the pulley that line up with the case markings and the "up" is up on both pulleys. I'm still not satisfied these are the right marks yet so tomorrow the search continues. I drilled the timing covers for the external alternator pulley and that turned out well. I will try to get some pics up later.
 
Thanks Dan, I'll check that out tomorrow with the key way orientation. I can't find any arrows on these timing gears. Right now it's showing the right belt to be off one notch but the belts look like new, no cracks, fraying or wear on them. I'm putting new ones on anyway. I looked at Roady's write up and AApples write up but my pulleys don't have those marks either.
 

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