[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=120066#p120066:2gvm5srv said:
K7TKA » Thu Jun 05, 2014 1:24 am[/url]":2gvm5srv]
Well I think everything is all better now. Today I jerked the plugs (a bit more brown than tan but all the same), adjusted the valves again and ran a compression test. All cylinders were between 145 and 150 with a cold engine. I then synchronized the carbs and got the idle down well below 1000. I'm sure it will idle even slower but the timing chain chatters. I did a short road test and it runs great and even shifts smoother. Color me done.
If you checked plugs during a hard run (under a load in third or fourth gear) your plugs should be light tan or even off white.
Let me explain...
Warm up the bike, go for a ride with your sparkplug tool, and find a nice flat or slightly uphill road. Hit the throttle and get it up to high rpm in a gear tall enough to provide a slight load on the engine. Now hit the kill switch and return the throttle to idle at the same time. Coast to a stop and pull the plugs.
With multiple sparking you should have no color (or very light tan). This will be slightly lighter than your average engine but with multi spark there is little unburned fuel to provide "plug color". If the plugs are still dark, you have an excessive rich condition.
I hope this helps. Although various motorcycles and cars run better when rich, your goal will always be to bring plug color to a very light tan. Checking with an air/fuel meter would also be a great idea, and most shops with a dyno could test that.
We set the idle on Goldwings around 800. Although we brag about getting them to idle down to 400, this is NOT what we recommend. It is simply a way to test for a strong ignition and proper carb adjustment. After we test a GL the idle is always set back to 800 to provide proper oil pressure and engine function.
Thanks for posting your information. It helps us all better understand how fuel and ignition affect engine function. Enjoy your improved Wing!!