Battery charger

[scdmarx]

I recently bought a battery maintainer to use on the bike that's not being ridden. But so far I've been leaving it on the one I ride, and boy what a difference! I don't really think there's anything wrong with the charging system, but I see a very impressive difference in the way it starts in the mornings. This is the wet cell battery that was in the bike when I bought it, and the PO said it was new. When I do ever need to replace it, it will get a AGM. I went ahead and got a maintainer that does 6 & 12 volts, and 3 different types of batteries. It knows when to turn itself on and off. Not cheap, but the difference I see is worth every cent! Wish I'da done this a long time ago!

 

[mcgovern61]

Any details on the make and model? Also, can it be used with an AGM battery? I think I read here somewhere that the AGM batteries need a different type of charger?

 

[AApple]

I use a Battery Tender on the '74 Corvette, 24/7 year round. It has saved me from having to buy another(already bought two of them) $260 repro battery since the car pretty much just sits there holding the garage floor down.
I need to get another one for the bike...I just haven't yet. The one I have sells for around $40-$50, depending on where ya find it...I have seen them cheaper. One thing I don't like about them is they are NOT very good at handling power failures, such as when the electricity goes off for any reason. I've had to have mine replaced 4 times now for that. :sensored:
I would also mention that anyone looking to get one, be sure to check the specs on them. Some put out over 1.75 amps while maintaining the charge. This can boil the battery over time, regardless of what they say...
Get one that puts out .75 or less, and you'll be good to go. At least that's what the battery folks tell me. :ahem:

I read something the other day about AGM batteries, and using a Battery Tender type charger on them...it said it wasn't good. My Tender states it will work on them, tho. I'll have to see if I can find that article an re-read it.... :read:


click on image for link This is the one I have...You'll notice this one runs @ 1.25 amps, which is still too high, but so far, so good for me. They do show a different charger for the GEL batteries... :good:

 

[scdmarx]

I would also mention that anyone looking to get one, be sure to check the specs on them. Some put out over 1.75 amps while maintaining the charge. This can boil the battery over time, regardless of what they say...
Get one that puts out .75 or less, and you'll be good to go. At least that's what the battery folks tell me. :ahem:

I read something the other day about AGM batteries, and using a Battery Tender type charger on them...it said it wasn't good. My Tender states it will work on them, tho. I'll have to see if I can find that article an re-read it.... :read:

"Battery Charging - Remember you must put back the energy you use immediately. If you don't the battery sulfates and that affects performance and longevity. The alternator is a battery charger. It works well if the battery is not deeply discharged. The alternator tends to overcharge batteries that are very low and the overcharge can damage batteries. In fact an engine starting battery on average has only about 10 deep cycles available when recharged by an alternator. Batteries like to be charged in a certain way, especially when they have been deeply discharged. This type of charging is called 3 step regulated charging. Please note that only special SMART CHARGERS using computer technology can perform 3 step charging techniques. You don't find these types of chargers in parts stores and Wal-Marts. The first step is bulk charging where up to 80% of the battery energy capacity is replaced by the charger at the maximum voltage and current amp rating of the charger. When the battery voltage reaches 14.4 volts this begins the absorption charge step. This is where the voltage is held at a constant 14.4 volts and the current (amps) declines until the battery is 98% charged. Next comes the Float Step. This is a regulated voltage of not more than 13.4 volts and usually less than 1 amp of current. This in time will bring the battery to 100% charged or close to it. The float charge will not boil or heat batteries but will maintain the batteries at 100% readiness and prevent cycling during long term inactivity. Some Gel Cell and AGM batteries may require special settings or chargers."

#9. taken from here: (scroll down to #9)https://www.batterystuff.com/tutorial_battery.html

 

[dan filipi]

I would also mention that anyone looking to get one, be sure to check the specs on them. Some put out over 1.75 amps while maintaining the charge. This can boil the battery over time, regardless of what they say...
Get one that puts out .75 or less, and you'll be good to go. At least that's what the battery folks tell me. :ahem:

I read something the other day about AGM batteries, and using a Battery Tender type charger on them...it said it wasn't good. My Tender states it will work on them, tho. I'll have to see if I can find that article an re-read it.... :read:

"Battery Charging - Remember you must put back the energy you use immediately. If you don't the battery sulfates and that affects performance and longevity. The alternator is a battery charger. It works well if the battery is not deeply discharged. The alternator tends to overcharge batteries that are very low and the overcharge can damage batteries. In fact an engine starting battery on average has only about 10 deep cycles available when recharged by an alternator. Batteries like to be charged in a certain way, especially when they have been deeply discharged. This type of charging is called 3 step regulated charging. Please note that only special SMART CHARGERS using computer technology can perform 3 step charging techniques. You don't find these types of chargers in parts stores and Wal-Marts. The first step is bulk charging where up to 80% of the battery energy capacity is replaced by the charger at the maximum voltage and current amp rating of the charger. When the battery voltage reaches 14.4 volts this begins the absorption charge step. This is where the voltage is held at a constant 14.4 volts and the current (amps) declines until the battery is 98% charged. Next comes the Float Step. This is a regulated voltage of not more than 13.4 volts and usually less than 1 amp of current. This in time will bring the battery to 100% charged or close to it. The float charge will not boil or heat batteries but will maintain the batteries at 100% readiness and prevent cycling during long term inactivity. Some Gel Cell and AGM batteries may require special settings or chargers."

#9. taken from here: (scroll down to #9)https://www.batterystuff.com/tutorial_battery.html

This is why I bought the recommended charger from Odyssey.
There are other chargers but from my searches all I found that could charge this way were more money.

 

[scdmarx]

#9. taken from here: (scroll down to #9)https://www.batterystuff.com/tutorial_battery.html

This is why I bought the recommended charger from Odyssey.
There are other chargers but from my searches all I found that could charge this way were more money.

I posted this link during my lunch break today. I got caught up in some other stuff and ran out of time, and had to hit the "submit" button and run. Sorry 'bout that.
Unfortunately, this seems to be a subject that furnishes a different answer everytime you ask, and all the research you can do still leaves you sitting there pondering contradicting results.
Going with the recommendation from the same guys that made your battery is probably the best advice.
I got mine from my Snap On dealer who I've been buying tools from for 13 years. I know he's a salesman, but I've spent a lot of money with him over the years and he knows he has to come back to visit me every week, so he does a pretty good job of taking care of any problems to my satisfaction. He told me that he and his kids use these chargers on their ATV's and garden tracktors and love being able to just go out and start something that's been sitting for long periods and not have to mess with charging the batteries a day before they need to use it. He said it's been a couple of years since he's had to buy batteries, and before he had to buy batteries every season.
This charger/maintainer does 6v & 12v batteries. (I don't remember the last time I needed to mess with a 6v battery) It will work on STD & AGM & Gel Cell & Spiral Wound batteries. It comes with "clamps", "rings", and a cig lighter/power point adapter. It has reverse polarity protection, shorted cell protection, and automatic operation. I have to manually select the volts and battery type, then press the "ON" button. From there it will do the regulated chraging/maintaining thing.
I currently have two different types of motorcycle batteries, and I can use it on my cars if I have to. The price was about what I paid for a new AGM motorcycle battery. Ya, I know, they're all made in China and I probably could have found a cheaper one somewhere. But I like the versatility of this one, and I am comfortable dealing with the guy that has been takeing care of me for years.
But that's not what I meant for this to be about. What I really wanted to say was, everyone should own and use a battery maintainer. I didn't even think I needed one, but 'lo and behold, what a difference a fully charged battery makes!!!!!!
A guy could get spoiled having a fully charged battery all the time! :smilie_happy:
And I wonder how the whole charging system feels about that, too? :yahoo:

 

[AApple]

It will certainly take a load off of the alternator/stator by it not having to fully recharge the battery while running, since the batt is already at full charge all the time. I love mine...I wish I had one for each of the other vehicles I have that just sit. k:

 

[dan filipi]

It will certainly take a load off of the alternator/stator by it not having to fully recharge the battery while running, since the batt is already at full charge all the time.

Since the charging system is a constant output with unused current shed to ground I don't think it matters.
In other words, output of the stator being 300 watts it is always putting out 300 watts whether a portion of it is going to the battery or not.
Where the gain of a fully charged battery would apply is in the amount of time needed to bring the battery up to a full charge.

 

[Andyb]

And, just to add a slightly different data point...

If you have a multi-meter, next time you hook up your charger, set your multi-meter on its ammeter setting and put it inline with your charger. I found that my old charger with a 2 amp and a 6 amp charge setting was actually charging at about .8 amps on the 2 amp setting. I was actually quite happy with that given the need to slow charge motorcycle batteries when you first get them. Over on the NGW site, someone posted that letting standard lead/acid batteries stand overnight when you first put the acid in is a good way to lenghthen the service life. I don't know if that is true, but I did it when I bought my new battery and I have had no problems yet.

 

[dan filipi]

Good point about the charger amps.
I have a 2/12 amp charger with a ammeter. The ammeter will show it's putting out more than 2 when set on 2, usually 4-5 when first put on.
I also have a 2 amp MC charger. It too will put out more than it's suppose to. That's an old one time to pitch it.

 

[AApple]

I was next door at Pep-Gurls the other day, and stopped to look at the maintainer chargers they had. They did have one that was rated at .750 amps...for $39. Forget what brand it was, but I'm prolly gonna get one next week. It's small enough to attach to a bike, if ya wanted, then you could just plug it in when needed. No muss/no fuss. :good:

 

[joedrum]

id have to have some kind of quick disconnect or something for pluged up take offs ..... :smilie_happy: :mrgreen:

 

[BIGmackie]

I got my maintainer at Wal-mart for a little over 20 bones. Don't recall the brand, but it's a 1.5v that came with both clamps and rings. According to the literature provided it's computer controlled and after the change enters a Maint cycle similar to what is described above. There's a quick disconnect, so I attached the rings to the batt and leave it plugged in all the time. It's been a huge lifesaver with all the electrical work I've been doing on mine, leaving power on for long periods of time without fear of the battery dying.

That's the first I've heard of anything over .75 amps boiling a battery over, but I'll watch out for it now that I know. I usually have the wing parked over a drip pan, so the worst thing would be having to rinse my frame off, repaint everything and probably argue with my wife... Maybe that's why my dad always charged batteries in a plastic tub outside the vehicle...

 

[wilcoy02]

I use a tender on my 1100. I have put a plug in my garage door light to get the electricity to the tender.This causes the tender to operate about 5 mins each time the garage door is opened and closed.This keeps the battery charged and does not boil the h2o out of the battery. Have used htis several years.

 

[joedrum]

thats a classic fix ...what a good way to use what you have ...out of thin air teck

 

[scdmarx]

That give me an idea! I need a beer everytime somebody opens the door. So...... :good:

 

[bronzestarvue]

I've always used the Battery Tender (BT) trickle chargers on all my bikes. Key is to make sure the battery is full up on fluids, if it's one of those batteries that you can add distilled water to. I have my Goldwing and a 1991 Saab 900S 16-valve turbo convertible in the garage, and switch the BT between them. I use the jumper cable style connectors on the Saab, and the plug-in connector on the GW. If I know I'll be riding the bike or taking the Saab out, I'll hook up the BT, and they've never failed to start. For $50 or so, it's a good investment.