Bike finally arrived, lot's of concerns!!

[quennc]

Well i mentioned in a previous post that i would let you all know what i found with this bike once i got it. First thing i looked at when i got home were the 3 yellow wires. Below you'll see in a pic that they look new. Obviously has been replaced. I don't really know why. So do i take the time and solder them now or do i just leave the way they are. Also i posted some pics of antifreeze in the bed of my truck. The bike has been sitting in there for more then 24 hrs. Problem is , is that it rained throughout the night and day so don't know for certain how much leaked out or if it was just from the drive in the truck. None the less, it still has me worried. I also poted another pic showing were i beleive the leak is coming from. When we were loading the bike , it somewhat grounded out on the part that i beleive is were the thermostat is. Again not certain if that's what the part is or if that's what caused the leak. Lastly but not least, the fuel tank is almost empty and the last time the tank was filled, sea foam was added. So my question is , would SEA FOAM create smoke from the exhaust until it's runs through the fuel system. I have not had a chance to run the bike long to see if the smoke disappears. Again tank is empty and i'm stuck with work right now until Saturday. That i when the bike is going for safety.
One more thing , is this exhaust stock or aftermarket. I see no baffles in the ends, You can pretty much see right through.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[54Greybeard]

I wouldn't worry about the leak until I knew where it was coming from. Looks like the hose clamps were replaced, maybe the hose too. Run it and see where the leak is coming from. Mufflers/exhaust look stock except that the rolled edge and the end of the mufflers has been cut off and the baffles taken out. The alternator wires look to be in good shape. The paint job is gorgeous! Start her up, let her talk to you a little. Pancake engines sometimes will smoke a little on start up, especially if leaning to one side on the side stand. Oil seeps through the ring gaps overnight, nothing to worry about.

 

[mcgovern61]

Check those wires again. In the pic, it looks like the center wire (at the top) is chaffed or melted. The exhaust is (was) stock and yes the baffles were cut out and removed. If you leave the bike on the side stand, it will smoke on startup. I agree that I would not worry right away about the antifreeze leak until you are sure where it is coming from. However, my guess is that it is coming from the water pump seal.

 

[slabghost]

Coolant leaks often seal after a bit of running. Yes a lot of seafoam in a little old gas can cause smoke. It wouldn't hurt to go ahead and solder the stator wires. You may want to check the charging system first to be certain it's all working right. Then get some fresh gas and give the old girl some exercise.

 

[quennc]

Looked at the wires before leaving for work and they all look fine. It's just the picture that makes it look bad. I will be taking the tester to it to see how she charges. I knew there was something different about the exhaust. As for the the leak, It rained again all night so couldn't see anything with the leak this morning. But like previously suggested i will wait till i get her to run and go from there. I do know the line and clamps and thermostat were replaced last year. I did notice that the oil light is always on when i go to start the bike and while it runs. Have yet to check that. Hope the safety goes smooth. Dying to ride this girl. Lol!!! Just don't tell my wife.

 

[dan filipi]

First I'd find out why the oil light is staying on, no oil pressure will quickly lock up the engine.
I wouldn't run it anymore until you put a pressure gauge on it to test.
All the other things mentioned earlier are small problems.

 

[Piper]

On that subject Dan, where is a good unobtrusive tap in spot for the oil pressure? I would really like to replace the goofy altimeter in the gauge cluster with an actual oil pressure gauge.

 

[dan filipi]

On that subject Dan, where is a good unobtrusive tap in spot for the oil pressure? I would really like to replace the goofy altimeter in the gauge cluster with an actual oil pressure gauge.

The simplest I found is the same place the sending unit is now.
The idiot light is nice as a pop up warning but not really needed if you have a gauge to monitor so you could leave the old sender out or use a brass tee to use both senders.

Keep in mind that the thread size/adapters they supply with SAE aftermarket gauges at the chain stores is slightly different, SAE not metric.
When I put one on mine I used teflon tape which threaded in tight, was secure and sealed but a metric adapter would be better.

 

[quennc]

Where exactly on the motor is that sending unit. Really like that idea of a gauge. Also will be doing a compression test tonight when i get home. Are the plugs a standard size plug. I only have 2 adaptors for my tester. 1was for mytruck and the other for my snowmobile.

 

[Piper]

Where exactly on the motor is that sending unit.

The oil pressure sensor is on top of the engine, right side, toward the rear behind the fuel pump and has a rubber cap on it. I have the T fitting installed and am going to finish the line up to the gauge today. Eventually I am going to have all white gauges with chrome bezels.

 

[RBG]

Note your water leak maybe from the weep hole on the water pump housing..not a big deal but will need to replaced..the pump shaft and or bearings are going out causing a wiggle and a leak..only use non-sicilate anti freeze in GL's. The weep hole is there to let you know you have a pump going out or a bad o ring or oil seal..oil can leak out of there too the oil pump shaft is what turns the water pump. Just get down and look the hole is easy to see.

Sea foam won't make your engine smoke unless you put a high concentration in the gas. But leaking valve seals or rings will. If it goes away after a minute or two I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[54Greybeard]

So what's going on with the oil light

 

[quennc]

Bringing the bike to a mechanic to do a pressure test on monday. Like someone mentionned i really don't want to be running the bike until i know for sure what's going on with the light. Could be nothing, could be something. But i'm not equipped with the knowledge and know how to work on these bikes. Better to have someone with some experience to try and solve this. Just a quick question, before actually starting the bike, do all the lights come on then once it's starts they all go off except for neutral. Kinda like a car. Reason why i ask is because when i first went to look at this bike, i turned the key and the only light that came on was the neutral light. Now the oil light is on when i turn the key. Can the oil light be temporarilly disconnected? I think you'll know where i'm going with this question.

 

[slabghost]

Oil light should be on with key on and motor not running. If it is off motor running it has oil pressure. Neutral light will be on as long as you don't shift gears. Motor running or not. If you use the kill switch to shut down it may take a second for the oil light to come on. If it flickers or remains on when running and you know there is oil. The switch or oil pump may be bad.

 

[dan filipi]

I've had 3 times so far the oil light flicker at idle and turned out the oil pickup was clogged.

The first time clogged was the first time I ever checked the screen, the other 2 times were after using a Purolator oil filter.
I still can't explain those 2 times, I've also never heard of any one else having a filter clogging the pickup screen.

 

[54Greybeard]

While you're waiting on Monday, fire that baby up and see if the oil light goes off. Should go off in a couple of seconds of running and that's what your mechanic is gonna do. 3-5 seconds isn't gonna hurt it any more than it's already hurt if it doesn't have oil pressure.

 

[quennc]

safety done. No more issues with oi light. Only i have now is that i can't pull the choke. Tried turning counter clockwise but no luck. Any ideas.

 

[dan filipi]

Maybe the cable is frozen to the jacket?

Try shooting penetrating oil right where the cable enters the jacket then repeat every few hours.
That cable and jacket is pretty small and depending how far down it's frozen it may not loosen up so it might have to be replaced.

 

[slabghost]

Might not be a cable issue. Maybe choke linkage on carbs is frozen. Try removing the cable from the carbs. If it is still frozen coil it up and soak it in oil.

 

[quennc]

The choke linkage at the carbs moves freely, even the cable seems to move in and out at the exit point,no issues there. Going to try penetrating oil at the starting point. If it doesn't free up then i'll have no choice but to remove the false tank and see if there's a bind in the cable or simply replace it.