Blowing fuses on gauges circuit

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canuckxxxx

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The fuse that powers the gas/temp gauges, neutral light etc has blown twice in the past 2 weeks. I see that one of the things it feeds is the 7v regulator. Can that regulator fail causing a blown fuse?

Thanks
Brian
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=177202#p177202:390a4qzg said:
dan filipi » Tue Jul 19, 2016 8:09 pm[/url]":390a4qzg]
Is there any add on hooked up to that circuit that might be overloading that fuse?

No, nothing added on. From my wiring diagram; that fuse feeds the 7v regulator that supplies the gauges and also the oil press light and neutral light.

The thing is that when I change fuse the gauges work normally for a little while before the fuses blows so doesn't seem like a short but more of an overload. I need to measure current from feed to regulator.
 
More than likely an ittermittent short in the regulator. If this is the original regulator it is a vibrating contact voltage reducer/regulator, make an electronic one or buy one from goldwingfacts.
 
Before replacing the regulator I would start by removing each light one at a time, try isolating each circuit to identify what exactly is causing the short. There is a lot of wiring associated with those gauges and lights, it would be a shame to replace the regulator to later fine out you have a short in the wiring.
 
In older vehicles I have replaced quite a few and some wore out the their insulators and shorted to the metal case.
 
So to isolate the problem I've removed the 7 v reg. And put it back together. So now the neutral light and temp. Light works. So I will ride it like this for a bit to see if the fuse holds.

I can now test the reg and try and make a replacement if needed.

Does this look like the OE reg?
 
OK, I set up a little test for my regulator. I have a 13.3v source (battery charger) + connected to black/red, - connected to green through the a test light. I measure 7.05V between green/black and the green. So it is working as it should. I will leave it like this and see if it eventually shorts out at which time the light should come on.

 
Mouser make's a great solution to the 7volt regulator issue. :yes: Bought a dozen for less than $20 to my door, a little soldering, some connector's, shrink wrap, and your in business. :yahoo:
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=177380#p177380:tx5x30zw said:
Denver » Thu Jul 21, 2016 4:58 pm[/url]":tx5x30zw]
Mouser make's a great solution to the 7volt regulator issue. :yes: Bought a dozen for less than $20 to my door, a little soldering, some connector's, shrink wrap, and your in business. :yahoo:

Sounds interesting Denver. Do you have details?
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=177302#p177302:1y90j86f said:
canuckxxxx » Wed Jul 20, 2016 6:58 pm[/url]":1y90j86f]
OK, I set up a little test for my regulator. I have a 13.3v source (battery charger) + connected to black/red, - connected to green through the a test light. I measure 7.05V between green/black and the green. So it is working as it should. I will leave it like this and see if it eventually shorts out at which time the light should come on.


I kept this setup powered up all night and still giving 7V this morning. But then I realized that it wouldn't test for where it shorts to the case because the case wasn't connected to ground. So I added a jumper from case to ground and powered it up through a 6A fuse. That was 4 hours ago and fuse holding. Will leave it this way till tomorrow.

I'm starting to think the regulator is OK.
 
Mouser electronics, is in Texas. :headscratch: Look under voltage regulator's, should have three terminals, and cost about $.50 each. :read: Diagram shows you the way to wire it in, voltage in, ground, voltage out, simple :good: .
 

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