C5 Ignitions first pic of the 1100 kit!

[joedrum]

plus one .....im with ya

 

[C5Performance]

Well actually they are pricey because i am sick of working with Harbor Freight tools. I figured a bunch of old Goldwing guys have lots of money (being tight wads) and we could easily fleece you. :smilie_happy:

Alright, now for a serious answer:

The "C" series ignitions can be 3.66" down to 2.66" in diameter. They just wont fit and the first generation kit used our automotive ignition. It works awesome, looks nice, and is $100 cheaper. Do you know Wing owners told us?

"If you made a housing that looked like something Honda made I'll buy it".

I liked the first kit we offered, but we are using those to build automotive distributors and were much larger in diameter. As our machinist said "If you make it sexy they will come."

 

[slabghost]

Personally I wouldn't care if it was housed in a soup can. I'd rather ride than polish another piece.

 

[C5Performance]

slabghost » Sun Jun 30, 2013 10:05 pm[/url]":2mfz6toj]
Personally I wouldn't care if it was housed in a soup can. I'd rather ride than polish another piece.

If you prefer our old style I might be able to get one yet. Let me know :good:

 

[slabghost]

Gotta check my finances. Still got other parts to buy. My dresser build is a bit expensive already.

 

[Ansimp]

Paul I appreciate the effort that you are going to with your ignition. :good:
. I guess the Problem we are all faced with is that you have developed a product that provides high spark out put, multi firing, rev limiting and optical trigger and to have the best costs half the price that I paid for my bike.

 

[Ansimp]

We have purchased the Rats Nest and Dads 82 in CA. I will be arriving in LA on the 7th of August for our big ride ( 5 weeks from Wednesday ) . You can see the threads in Restorations.

 

[C5Performance]

SPECIAL ALERT:

I just spoke with Dan about my posts. It seems about four of my reply posts never made it to the forum over the past few days. We think it might be a “time out” issue. I want everyone to know i've answered moisture and price issues several times in those lost posts. I'd like to answer all the questions again...

Moisture-

Optic readers dont like water or oil. If you had a substantial oil leak and the eye of the reader were to be blocked, your motorcycle would shut off. You can clean it carefully with rubbing alcohol and dry it with a low heat hairdryer. I've done it before and it worked again right after.

Water that is in large enough quantities to block the encoder slots would do the same thing. Moisture accumulating from normal engine heat/cool cycles is not an issue. We try to vent the ignition near the bottom so moisture getting in has a way to evaporate or run back out. On the GL1000 the wiring leaves via a small hole in the bottom. Removing the cover would be easy if you drove in water over a foot in depth. On the GL1100 I don't think normal riding would involve being in 2-3 feet of water. If so, you'd have to dry out the encoder wheel to solve the issue.

The encoder wheel is stainless steel and the ignition is completely encased in “potting” material. PowerArc even went to the trouble of soldering the wires from an outside connector so water cannot be drawn into the module due to wicking.

Price-

As I told Dan, people buy products based on the following-

What are your current or past needs/wants
What are your past experiences with other related products
What can you AFFORD to spend on the product
What is your current excitement level about the product you are looking at

I could also use this guide to describe how I chose my wife LOL

If you think optic readers are junk, buy a magnetic triggered ignition.
If you can build one in your basement for $10, you are fortunate and I am envious of your talent.
If you want to bolt on a well assembled product, fire it up and go for a ride, then we have a U.S. Made product that might interest you.

Idea Sharing-

We appreciate this forum. I am on a few other Goldwing forums that are not as open to discussing our products as this one. Good or bad...your feedback is valuable to us. Please all we ask is if you dont like something, give us a clear description of what you'd like improved, and we'll try hard to improve it.

I spoke with Joedrum yesterday for quite some time. I was amazed at his knowledge and passion for properly adjusting the two timing belts. He was also very passionate about the Honda issues with wiring as it pertains to what we call CLEAN power for the coils and ignition. We are now going to work towards including a relay and wire harness to feed our ignitions directly from the battery. Joe has agreed to help us “get it right”.

That is the reason we love forums. Finding people like Dan or Joe, and a few others has been a blessing to us. I've gotten more feedback from this forum in two weeks than all other forums combined in 6 months!

 

[mcgovern61]

C5Performance » Mon Jul 01, 2013 9:55 am[/url]":1c8zcr2r]
I've gotten more feedback from this forum in two weeks than all other forums combined in 6 months!

That is good! It could also be a little tough! These guys are pretty straight forward with their comments, whether we like the comments or not! :hihihi:

But that makes for a good learning experience, a check on ego sometimes and certainly makes for relationships with give and take. That is what I like about this forum! :thanks:

 

[dan filipi]

I liken the price point to the $1000 we just put into the Suburban stereo.
Did we need it? No
Could we afford it? Not really.
Are we enjoying it? Absolutely!

It is not the best by a long shot but I'm still glad we did it.

 

[AApple]

C5Performance » Mon Jul 01, 2013 9:55 am[/url]":1j4vfk35]
On the GL1100 I don't think normal riding would involve being in 2-3 feet of water.

Well...maybe...maybe not....

emilio scotto

• carl62cycles
• Dec 10, 2010

:smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy:

Thank you for the additional info on moisture. With the location of the ign. on the 1100, it prolly is not as big of a deal as it would be on the 1000, but was still a concern I had. :thanks:
I know when I had my ign off, there was quite a bit of rust scale built up in there, and best I could tell, it had never been opened up. It all cleaned up nicely...mostly just surface rust, but it still had to come from moisture getting in there. If your ign "can" is sealed well, then that shouldn't be a problem, but it does need some kind of venting, if for no other reason than for cooling the electronic components. I'm just throwing this out there for discussion....just curious, more than anything. :good:

 

[slabghost]

Under normal conditions I really doubt moisture will be much of an issue. If you ford streams though I suggest you drill a hole in the cover insert a tube. Seal the cover and tube to the cover and run the free end up under the seat somewhere.

 

[AApple]

My thinking, too. I've had a lot of experience dealing with the Opti Spark systems on Corvettes, and that's why I have pushed the moisture issue so much. GM eventually went with a vented system that draws a small amount of vacuum thru the "can", with a fresh air hose running up, and behind the air filter. Won't help if you drown it out, of course, but it keeps the "normal" moisture/humidity from being a problem.
Of course, the Corvette system is up front(splash water), and under the water pump(pump leaks)...so it's got two strikes against it to begin with.
This is the ONLY reason I even bring the subject up. On the 1000 engine, it's easy enough to dry it out if it gets wet. On the 1100...not so much....
k:
I'm all for a new ign system like this....and if I can afford it, would prolly get it. :yes:

 

[stanlw]

How difficult is it to remove/replace the ignition module on the 1100? I still have not figured out how to remove the coils. :head bang:

 

[joedrum]

its rather difficult ...but if one seeks all the forum help they can get and can post pics i think its doable for most ...

 

[slabghost]

stanlw » Mon Jul 01, 2013 12:47 pm[/url]":24a9u45c]
How difficult is it to remove/replace the ignition module on the 1100? I still have not figured out how to remove the coils. :head bang:

Removing the coils gets a lot easier after you remove the false tank. Getting the ignition out takes a lot more. Need to remove the battery, seat, rear tire, drop rear master cylinder, remove the fuel valve, remove the fuel tank and any luggage in the way. It's easier if you also remove the swingarm but not absolutely necessary.

 

[Ansimp]

As Paul has discovered the reason I am a huge fan of CGW in most cases its not just theory it is actual members making things that work for our Oldwings. :good: :salute: :good:

 

[Offcenter]

Thanks Paul for the quick and direct replies to the questions.
And thanks to everyone else for intelligent questions that prompted Paul
to give more answers! :smilie_happy:

Since I have no plans to ride my 76 through deep water, I believe
that this system will work well on my bike.
I'll probably be ordering mine in about a week. Just have to
drop a few more pennies in the piggy bank. :mrgreen:

 

[C5Performance]

Is that a photograph of Emilio Scotto? I read his book and it was one of the best books I have ever read!!
He is a bit nuts, but i loved the part where they ran in the streets with gunfire all around (revolution going on and he thought it would be a great idea to visit that country anyway).

As i said before, i plan on turning my GL1000 into a submarine and really see how deep i can go. Does anyone have advice on what other items need venting? (rear diff, crank, carb vents relocated, etc...)

Thanks ahead of time for your suggestions!!

 

[slabghost]

Battery vents and all electrical connections sealed. Crankcase breathers. Exhaust will need raised up. Intake filter box will need sealed and snorkeled. I may be missing a few things but that's a pretty good start.