Carb prob 1980 gw

[Gumby]

Hi picked up an 80 gw interstate had been sitting in a heated and closed garage for 8yrs. The tank
Is thick with rust and gum I soaked it with muratic acid and it did come clean but there is still a
Fair amount of rust so off she comes (tank) question is there anything better than Kreem as a coating?

Also I removed and cleaned my carbs not too sure of the floats. the springs seem to work fine but seemed weak to the touch set float height etc.. The bike started but gas started flowing into the intakes from the #1 or #3 carbs pulled them again and with carb intake face down the #1 float was laying Flat on the carb body. So are my float pistons shot? am trying not to rebuild the carbs as the
Kits from randaak or eBay are either over kill (not needed) or not enough to address my problem
Floats etc.. Hmmm any suggestions? Would bad floats cause this problem?

Thx Gumby

 

[zman]

Yes it would. The floats springs can become thin and weak and the rubber tip gets hard. If your seats are good you can just buy the float needles for cheap, K&L 7-8 bucks each. The float needle combo cost much more but if your seats are pitted there isnt much you can do but buy new or find good used.
You should also fill then with gas on the bench first to check for leaks then drain each bowl to check how much fuel in each.

 

[brianinpa]

Hey Gumby, Welcome to Classics. Another option is to send your carbs off to get the work done by Pistol Pete. A few members here have used him in the past and are pleased with the results, but myself, I would rather do it myself.

 

[joedrum]

yes I can see we are in total agreement on your assessment of carb kits ... so we can well here ... it is ridicules to think gaskits and Viton are regualar orings will solve your problem .... if gas is not present in air box then the gaskits and orings are pretty much not your problem .....if the floats are banging the top while trying to shut off flow ... they have to cone down some to make sure that full impact of shutting off fuel is not compromised at all...regardless of what any book says ... it is also very important that the needle valve is cleaned good and spring is freed up good so it provides good operation ....the float seat sould be gently clean in place with q tip at first ... there are screens uder the seats but in most cases these screens are not the problem ... and taking seats out can get bad in a hurry ... till it proves to be problem I wouldn't mess with it.....the flow and stop bench test will most likely prove if the flow is even or not ... using gravity tank carb sitting like in motor no intake horns on bowls drains out you can pic up temp tank above carbs and see if all carbs are getting flow about the same speed ... if that passes ... put drains back in ... put tank above carbs again in this test the gas flow sould stop ... I useally tie tank off up high and leave it this way for all day .. if gas comes out of carbs there leaking into piston when on bike ... if dry id be putting them on to try ... floats float so on your ouestion of bad floats throw them in gas if it one sinks it aint good

 

[Gumby]

Hi where could you buy a gravity fed tank with a 1/4 inch fitting went to harbor freight they looked at me cross eyed.

 

[joedrum]

rip it off the lawn mower ... anything can be riged up ... just be safe as number one concern

 

[dan filipi]

Gumby » Wed Sep 04, 2013 9:22 am[/url]":311elicv]
Hi where could you buy a gravity fed tank with a 1/4 inch fitting went to harbor freight they looked at me cross eyed.

Real cheap.
Use an old gallon milk carton then drill a hole in the cap the right size for a 1/4" hose barb fitting and thread it in.
As yo use it and gas goes out a vacuum will get in there and the jug will collapse. When it goes too far then flip it upright and loosen the cap to let air in.

Or better. Drill the fitting into the top of a plastic 2 gallon gas can then put a rubber cap on it for when you go fill it.
When flipped up and connected to carbs, loosen the filler end for a vent.

 

[zman]

You guys and your fancy tools :mrgreen: I used 5 ft of tubing with a funnel at the end, tied the funnel to an elevated railing then poured till the funnel was full, equal to aboot the same pressure the carbs will see.

 

[dan filipi]

zman » Wed Sep 04, 2013 10:20 am[/url]":uritf6ox]
You guys and your fancy tools :mrgreen: I used 5 ft of tubing with a funnel at the end, tied the funnel to an elevated railing then poured till the funnel was full, equal to aboot the same pressure the carbs will see.

I like it!

 

[Gumby]

Love the funnel.

 

[zman]

Put a towel under the carbs to soak up any spills(gas stinks) and when your done you can just take some pliers and pinch the tubing at the nipple on the carb , wiggle it loose hold it over the gas can and drain the excess fuel into the can, keep checking around the carbs while filling for leaks..No sence in filling the funnel to the top if you leak right away.

 

[joedrum]

this is all good to me if it can by left to in place to ck for long term gas leaking that takes a while to eventually hydro lock a motor .. in the float fuel closing position it takes time to see if it stops gas flow

 

[Steve83]

Hey, Gumby, welcome to the forum from Southern California! Good luck with those carbs! They can be annoying, but when they're right, they're sweet!