carb sync
- Thread starter glider101
- Start date
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there is a good carb syn. in the tech side.
personaly i like bench syncing...it can be done close enough with just screwdriver and wrench for the lock nuts just head around bike to see if all the carbs start moving at same time .....super car syncing is not realy good till most issues are dealt with... :mrgreen:
Based on recent experience with Tatanka, I'm sold on carb synchronization for better performance, mileage, and smoothness. I have a 4-hose carb synch dial gauge set. Takes about 45 minutes (I'm slow 
) from cold engine to done.
I've never done a bench carb synch. In a "dynamic" synch, cylinders 1-3 are synch'd to unadjustable cylinder 4. Adjustments are made to the pilot screws on the '86 GL1200. Really made a difference on the first bike I finished and plan to use it as soon as Bobo ('83 GL1100) is ready.
By the way, it is also a good test for vacuum leaks. If you can't get the dials (or mercury level) to remain pretty steady, even after playing with the dampener screws, then any wandering or jumping cylinder most likely has an air leak. First bet is the O-rings at the bottom of the intake elbows. I've replaced them and the timing belts on both bikes already (Bobo had sat for 10 years! :sensored:
) from cold engine to done.I've never done a bench carb synch. In a "dynamic" synch, cylinders 1-3 are synch'd to unadjustable cylinder 4. Adjustments are made to the pilot screws on the '86 GL1200. Really made a difference on the first bike I finished and plan to use it as soon as Bobo ('83 GL1100) is ready.
By the way, it is also a good test for vacuum leaks. If you can't get the dials (or mercury level) to remain pretty steady, even after playing with the dampener screws, then any wandering or jumping cylinder most likely has an air leak. First bet is the O-rings at the bottom of the intake elbows. I've replaced them and the timing belts on both bikes already (Bobo had sat for 10 years! :sensored:
slabghost
Well-known member
I don't have a 1200 carb rack or repair manual. However synchronizing my KZ and 1100 wing is done at the linkage. Air fuel mix screws are adjusted to achieve highest idle rpm and left there.Bobo":1way64pi said:Based on recent experience with Tatanka, I'm sold on carb synchronization for better performance, mileage, and smoothness. I have a 4-hose carb synch dial gauge set. Takes about 45 minutes (I'm slow
I've never done a bench carb synch. In a "dynamic" synch, cylinders 1-3 are synch'd to unadjustable cylinder 4. Adjustments are made to the pilot screws on the '86 GL1200. Really made a difference on the first bike I finished and plan to use it as soon as Bobo ('83 GL1100) is ready.
By the way, it is also a good test for vacuum leaks. If you can't get the dials (or mercury level) to remain pretty steady, even after playing with the dampener screws, then any wandering or jumping cylinder most likely has an air leak. First bet is the O-rings at the bottom of the intake elbows. I've replaced them and the timing belts on both bikes already (Bobo had sat for 10 years! :sensored:
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Bench sync is just a good way to get started after the carbs are off, rebuilt or cleaned. Withe the carbs off the bike, you use a very small wire (very thin paper clip works) and place it in the butterfly. Adjust the carbs until the butterfly's touch the clip (s). This will at least have each butterfly set at the same spacing and opening to start the bike for final syncing with gauges.Bobo":1zvw7yae said:
I had just bought the gauge set to sync. mine on 83 1100 aspencade and just did it then
went for a ride made a big difference in performance wow. Was ok before but now better
went for a ride made a big difference in performance wow. Was ok before but now better
