Carb synchronization video how to by Dan

[dan filipi]

My new 4 gauge carb sync arrived today, yay new toy!

When I first got my 1100 I didn't know the proper procedure to sync the carbs so I made a video of me syncing my '83 GL1100. The procedure is the same for all years 1100 and I believe the 1000. Can someone confirm if the GL1000 is the same?

Prior to the gauge hookups I calibrated each gauge to each other by connecting them one by one to the number 3 carb vacuum port. This ensures your gauge readings will be accurate.
Thanks Mcgovern61 for that tip!

The video's are long (9 minutes and 7 minutes) and in 2 parts because of upload limitations at Youtube.

I hope this helps someone out, I know a video sure would have helped me back then!

 

[lew1701]

Excellent videos. Looks like someone could us a "helmet cam" :grin: . And you are correct, the 1000's have the same setup.

 

[thewhiterhino]

Thanks Dan for the Instructional videos... :music: I have to rebuild my carbs and then sync them so I appreciate all you do to help us. :thanks: :thanks: :thanks:

 

[Omega Man]

Excellent tutorial! ..."you want to ajust your vales before doing this." at the end :smilie_happy:

I can't wait to try this.

~O~

 

[dan filipi]

Thanks Lew for confirming the 1000.

One thing I didn't mention in the videos is to throttle up to 3000-4000 rpm after the sync is done, hold it steady there for 10 seconds or so and look at the gauges. They should all be VERY close within a inch of vacuum. If not there may be some linkage problems. The reason for this check is you want all 4 pulling equal load out on the highway cruising for the best power and fuel economy.

I did this sync before making any other adjustments to the carbs and engine so I have a reference before and after.
I'm always curious what each tune up adjustment has an effect on so I'll do before and after checks.

This morning starting cold the persistent primary chain rattle is still there at idle but less than it's ever been and it stopped rattling once warmed up for a minute or so. Before it would rattle until the temp was at the bottom of the solid bar.

This morning I pulled the plugs after letting it idle to full warm up. All but #4 are tan. 4 is black but not sooty so I figure it's running just a bit rich and my eyes burn from the exhaust.

Next I'm going to do an idle drop adjustment on the pilot/idle mixture jets and see if that throws off the sync.
I don't have an electronic tach to see the idle drop so I have to do this by ear, which I can usually do pretty accurately.
It's been awhile so I'll have to see how that goes.

Tomorrow morning I'll adjust the valves.

 

[joedrum]

yeah helment cam sounds like neat deal but at 100+ temps i would have trouble wearing anything on my head ....its hot in southern indiana too....nice video dan sure will help a lot of people .....bike sounds pretty good dan seems to rev smoothly......could be weak spark on that clylinder .....one of the best things i ever did was get rid of the stock coils and ballist resister and replace it with one that did not need ballist.....sure did cure a lot of carb problems i thought i had.....

thanks dan great stuff :builder: :mrgreen:

 

[dan filipi]

So I went and adjusted the valves, a couple were just a tad tight and one was loose.
Didn't seem to affect vacuum readings at all.

Did a compression check also, 165 to 175. These engines really impress me how tough they are!

Then I did the idle drop, man that's hard when it's hot!

After that I saw a change in all vacuum readings which threw the sync off on 1 and 2, 4 stayed in sync with 3.
After syncing she idles smoooooth man!

Bike is back in the garage, too damn hot today to put all the covers and stuff on and I want to cold start in the morning and take a look at the sync again.

So I didn't really think adjusting the idle jets would make any difference in the sync but it sure does which makes it worth doing.

 

[mcgovern61]

Nice job Dan! Aren't those gauges great! Any chance of posting how an idle drop is done?

 

[dan filipi]

That :uparrow: is the "official" way to do idle drop.

Since I don't have an electronic tach to see 50 rpms change I listen carefully for a speed change in the idle.
It's pretty difficult to hear the change but I kinda have a knack for it from my old days working on Rochester and Holley carbs playing with jetting and mixtures.

To keep it simple, I turn each mixture screw out until I start to hear an increase in rpm then turn the screw in 1/2 turn and leave it. This has worked well for me so far.

 

[dan filipi]

This morning when checking everything to button up I found out the 2 right intake tube clamps were real loose, I never tightened them after using this carb rack to fire up the parts bike :blush:

Tightened those then decided to check myself on the idle drop so I did it by the book this time, well except for a tachometer.

Interestingly the sync is now closer than it was yesterday with loose intake clamps and when I rev it the needle swings on all 4 are very close where #4 especially was quite different.

 

[joedrum]

okay so loosen the right two carb clamps first and then sync the carbs and then tighten them back up and it gets better :smilie_happy: :mrgreen: i might have to try that out of the box method :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :yahoo: :whistling: :hihihi: :mrgreen:

 

[dan filipi]

okay so loosen the right two carb clamps first and then sync the carbs and then tighten them back up and it gets better :smilie_happy: :mrgreen: i might have to try that out of the box method :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :yahoo: :whistling: :hihihi: :mrgreen:

That's right Joe.

Basically do everything backward,
sync,
then adjust the valves,
then tighten everything so there's no vacuum leaks,
then do idle drop adjustments,
then sync again. :blush:

But seriously, I like to make comparisons to see what effects each thing has on each other and I learned a few things in the process.

The order I'd do all this next time is,

Adjust valves,
sync,
adjust idle drop
sync.

 

[Dave]

okay so loosen the right two carb clamps first and then sync the carbs and then tighten them back up and it gets better :smilie_happy: :mrgreen: i might have to try that out of the box method :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :yahoo: :whistling: :hihihi: :mrgreen:

:smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy:

but seriously, if you want a digital tacho look in go-kart shops or E-bay go-kart stuff, don't get all confused with the number of cylinders, we use 2 spark plugs per coil so something that will work for a twin should be good, and then there's the dual fire set-up's and it get's deep, but they all come with intructions, no wire cutting is needed and they all have a setting that will work on a Wing

 

[GILLT]

Used Dan's tutorial today to sync the carbs.
Outstanding turorial. :good: Made it easy to do the job.
Had a little trouble with dialing in the #2 carb, but after a bit, it came around.
The carbs where not to far out. Just needed to tweek them in and get them dialed
in side to side. :headscratch: Adjusted the valves the other day, so that was already to go.
Could not Believe how much better the throttle response was after I got done. :yahoo: :yahoo:

:thanks: Dan for taking the time to do the tutorial, it came in mighty handy.

Now, do ya know what time it is? :salute: :salute: :beer: :beer: :beer:

 

[swapdip]

nice resource