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flash2002

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Hi guys, I need help, I'm trying to adjust my carbs on my 79, the carbs are all clean and rebuilt. The problem is the #3 carb seems to suck more vacum than the other ones :head bang: . When I try to adjust #1 and #3 the #3 overtakes #1 no matter how far I adjust #1 does anybody know whats going on. Is there a special way to adjust these carbs, I did the ones on my GL1100 and it works fine.
 
try tapping on carbs ....with something that wont hurt the looks ....go back to the air screws mix screws adjusting ..you might be amaze what this dose for ya hopefully....while at idle and messing air mix screws
 
set each air mix screw to obtain highest rpm at idle resetting idle before going to the next carb. Do all of them twice.
 
flash2002":33s770ri said:
Ok, I will try what you say, one more thing, the way the carbs are I guess it's normal that it's knocking on the right side because of the carbs not being adjusted.
I'm glad you mentioned that adjusting them on the center stand will even the flow to both sides. On the side stand fuel tends to flow easier to the left carbs.
 
slabghost":1lakb70c said:
flash2002":1lakb70c said:
Ok, I will try what you say, one more thing, the way the carbs are I guess it's normal that it's knocking on the right side because of the carbs not being adjusted.
I'm glad you mentioned that adjusting them on the center stand will even the flow to both sides. On the side stand fuel tends to flow easier to the left carbs.
Slabghost, the bike is on the center stand, the knocking come from the right side, it seems to come from the #3 cylinder, it must be way off or the combination of #1 and #3 being off.
 
'now I've thought a little' are you using gages or vacuum tubes with oil? Synch is in linkage so all slides open simultaneously. Did you set them all at a base setting? Say with a small stick or wire?
 
I did do a adjustment at first with wire then install on bike. The gauge I'm using is vacuum tube, one thing, should the oil be lite or heavy right now I'm using trans oil mix with light oil.
 
Vacuum can be pretty strong as you have found. These are designed after what used to have mercury. So heavy oil helps. Many have used carb jets to limit air flow at the open end. Others have used fish tank air valves. If you use air valves I suggest you set one then attach each hose to the same port at same rpm and set the others the same. That way all will react the same. This will assure carbs are indeed balanced when all four are level (equal). I know the book suggests synchronizing first but my preference is to set air fuel mix first.
 
I think slab pegged the problem, you need a restrictor in the vacuum line to slow the flow.
I made a manometer out of 1/4" tubing filled with ATF before I bought a 4 gauge kit and had the same problem.

When I first hooked it up to my homemade job all the atf was sucked out.

The adjustable fish tank valves work great to slow the flow and steady the pulses and makes the job much more manageable.

If one cylinder is sucking too hard (too high vacuum), that means the throttle plate in that carb is closed more than the others. With the valves, you can close that one and slowly open it to see how it's comparing without sucking out the fluid.
 
Thanks for your help guys, got it running pretty good not 100% but good. :music: I'm going to try it tonight to see if it's ok :moped: Theres is a guy that wants to buy it so it as to run.
 
Shoot, Shoot, Shoot, took the bike out last night, it started fine but it started to missed on one cylinder :Awe: , I think it's #3 again. I guess I have to take it apart to see whats up :builder: . It seems to be flooding, it was running fine yesterday and when I restarted later it ran bad, :head bang: . Any idea
 
Put 6-8 oz of ATF in the fuel if tank is full. Smack the carbs with a screwdriver handle to try and jog the float valve into moving. Run it until it quits with the fuel off. Then turn it on (the fuel) and the flood of fuel to fill often will wash out and dirt on the needles or needle seats. Good luck.
 

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