Coil Logic?

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yes it has cdi's here are the one's i replaced
 

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They may have CDI in their part # but they are not a CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) part and thus the problem in coil selection as a CDI coil would be about that ohmage.

With ballast resistor in circuit you are drawing 6 amps and they saved your ignition.
The current dropped across them was incredible and they had to be very hot.
The ignitors have now been compromised, I doubt that the coils are harmed be are incorrect and not usable with any ignition made your application.
 
Thank you very much I'm also glad it did not hurt anything I did'nt let it run long but long enough to get really hot I've put the stock coil's back in and it run's fine well back to running fine for 4-5 minute's
than it start's losing cylinder's 1&3 it is on the same side of the motor was thinking could be carb's but run's so good to that point so sprayed starting fuel in the port's on that side no breather on funny thing did'nt pop or spuder or pick up so was thinking could it need the valve's adjusted even with no noise even then it should miss all the time may need to do a compression test :?
 
That also answers that the ballast resistor probably is not needed in the GL1100 when the appropriate coils are used.

FYI,

On my '82 bike, I do not have the ballast resistors on my coils because they were from my '81 1100 which did not have the ballast resistors. I did not know at the time when I swapped in my '83 engine that the '82 and '83 coils had ballast resistors. I went and checked the '82 coils that I had pulled when I restored the bike and sure enough there are the ballast resistors. No harm, no foul so far!
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=94017#p94017:2md92jg9 said:
Cleveland Caulder » Tue Aug 27, 2013 10:16 pm[/url]":2md92jg9]
Ooo" your running stock coil's from your 81 correct
Yep, stock '81 coils (they do not have ballast resistors), NGK D8EA Spark Plugs, Grey Dyna Spark Plug Wires with no resistor caps. I just changed my plugs before a road trip recently and they had about 10,000 miles on them. They were still gapped the same and no wear on the electrode so the setup seems to be working pretty good!
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=94005#p94005:2pounkwv said:
Cleveland Caulder » Tue Aug 27, 2013 9:43 pm[/url]":2pounkwv]
Thank you very much I'm also glad it did not hurt anything I did'nt let it run long but long enough to get really hot I've put the stock coil's back in and it run's fine well back to running fine for 4-5 minute's
than it start's losing cylinder's 1&3 it is on the same side of the motor was thinking could be carb's but run's so good to that point so sprayed starting fuel in the port's on that side no breather on funny thing did'nt pop or spuder or pick up so was thinking could it need the valve's adjusted even with no noise even then it should miss all the time may need to do a compression test :?
I think you're on the right track there. Loose valves clatter. Tight valves do not. Loose valves close completely but may not open fully if too loose. Tight valves may open fully but not close fully. Especially once they warm up. Do your compression test fully warmed and cold. Cold may be good as it seems fine for a few minutes. Warmed you may find compression has dropped significantly.
 
I agree with Slabghost. Many people think they dont need a valve adjustment because they aren't "noisy yet".
What they don't realize, is valves get tighter with age, not looser. That means they get quieter and once you reach the point where the valve cannot fully close (at higher engine temps) the sealing surface of the valve burns VERY quickly.

although i've ground both valves and seats during rebuilds, I now recommend replacing the valves and only refinishing the seats.
Modern valves are much too thin and there are several reasons I suggest NOT grinding them...but this is a COIL thread so i'll stop here.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=94282#p94282:1xzodq82 said:
C5Performance » Thu Aug 29, 2013 10:22 pm[/url]":1xzodq82]
Modern valves are much too thin and there are several reasons I suggest NOT grinding them...but this is a COIL thread so i'll stop here.

HIJACK ALERT!.....HIJACK ALERT!!!! :shock:

(BTW, while we hijack the thread, would the original Honda valves be considered modern valves?)

I mean......the valves in the coils,...right? :doh: (Just getting back on track here AFTER you respond to the modern valves question!) :hihihi:
 
I just got a text from a young man who thinks the popping from his carbs right after doing a valve adjustment might be related to ignition, so really it all ties together. Lack of compression or poor valve sealing can cause running issues that appear to be coil misfire.

My reference to modern valves is a broad view of valve material and thickness.

Roughly i would say on 4 valve engine (Honda used them alot in 4 stroke dirtbikes around the early 80's) and anything newer would be considered "modern". They are thinner and don't hold up well after grinding. Anything 2 valve with nice thick valves probably would be ok....so....Golwings might be ok, or at least on older ones.

If I saw pictures or held a Wing valve in my hand i would feel more comfortable giving my opinion on grinding or not.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=94282#p94282:1r1dhohz said:
C5Performance » Thu Aug 29, 2013 10:22 pm[/url]":1r1dhohz]
What they don't realize, is valves get tighter with age, not looser.

:read: :headscratch:
We're gunna need a new thread to explain this one.... :headscratch: :popcorn:
:mrgreen:
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=94326#p94326:3mzaxnd5 said:
C5Performance » Fri Aug 30, 2013 12:19 pm[/url]":3mzaxnd5]
no previous threads discussing valve wear and how it relates to adjustments?

I can start one if you guys want to know more.
Perfect timing......thread available for discussion here....viewtopic.php?p=94327#p94327
 
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