Draining fork oil from trac forks?

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Found it.
There is a drain screw in the bottom.

image.php
 
I just drained a set of 1200 forks Dan and I was amazed at how much sludge I found when I removed the four allen bolts & Trak cover plate, I then turned the forks so the sludge could drain out of bottom of the fork overnight. The book says to also loosen the Trak adjustment screw on the side , the numbered one and it will drain even better. I am still debating on flushing the whole thing, can't decide on what to use as a flush, they were not leaking when I took the forks off.
 
On the right side I couldn't get that phillips screw off so I removed the Trac plate and discovered another drain screw which is much easier to get off.


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Fresh atf is in so that's done.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=130524#p130524:12ml78k0 said:
Omega Man » Sat Sep 06, 2014 12:42 pm[/url]":12ml78k0]
Is that part in the upper left of the pic adjustable?
Yup - it has 4 settings that adjust the amount of anti-dive control.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=129353#p129353:1mcyk8mj said:
backlander » Sun Aug 24, 2014 10:14 pm[/url]":1mcyk8mj]
I just drained a set of 1200 forks Dan and I was amazed at how much sludge I found... I am still debating on flushing the whole thing, can't decide on what to use as a flush, they were not leaking when I took the forks off.

Nobody answered this question but I'm about to drain mine and also need to do some sort of flush. I just flushed my engines sludge out with diesel and it seems to have worked perfectly, my oil was ending up black right after a fresh oil change but now its stayed clean this time after a good flush.

What if I try diesel to flush the forks, any problem with that idea, or should I just do a few changes of atf?

And as long as I'm here what is the correct capacity for 83 track forks when completely flushed? Engine oil gives different capacities when totally emptied vs regular oil change, wondering if this is similar.
 
I use the ATF to clean the motor so I'd be more inclined to flush with ATF. Not sure what the capacity is at this point but I'm sure it's in the manual. With the drains at the very bottom I doubt there will be much if any remaining inside if pumped a time or two.
 
It is a closed system that really doesn't get too many contaminants. If you are really wanting a clean system just repeat the oil change process again after riding on the new ATF for a few months. No need to try and flush IMHO.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=131323#p131323:2hqarlik said:
slabghost » Tue Sep 16, 2014 8:01 pm[/url]":2hqarlik]
I use the ATF to clean the motor so I'd be more inclined to flush with ATF. Not sure what the capacity is at this point but I'm sure it's in the manual. With the drains at the very bottom I doubt there will be much if any remaining inside if pumped a time or two.

I didn't think I had any need to flush the engine, until I realized I did with the black oil after fresh change and decades of neglect this bike has seen. I was hoping to use the diesel because I already have gallons of it, where does a person find cheap atf in bulk rather than quarts?

I realize you're all saying I don't need to do it, but man this bike was so neglected I'm sure they've never even been serviced and have over 100k on them. If others found sludge then I'm sure I will too and like the engine it'll just keep contaminating new oil so it's either flush once or change several times...
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=131327#p131327:2dbrx6qc said:
dan filipi » Tue Sep 16, 2014 8:16 pm[/url]":2dbrx6qc]
I just re filled mine, 83 with Trac, manual says 19.8 oz.

thanks

I don't have an 83 manual is why I needed to know this. Too poor to buy one and I could only find 80-82? manuals online.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=131333#p131333:230z9edr said:
Steve83 » Tue Sep 16, 2014 9:28 pm[/url]":230z9edr]
There's an '83 shop manual and owner's manual in the Gallery.

sure enough... I never noticed that, could have sure used those a few times now. I started my rebuild a ngw member, up until I had issue with moderators there and they locked me out, just didn't see those manuals here.
 
Put in 1/5th the oil capacity with ATF. Run for a few hundred miles or the next oil change. The oil will come out really dirty but the new oil will look new for quite a while.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=131331#p131331:1w2fwrld said:
83gl1200 » Tue Sep 16, 2014 9:16 pm[/url]":1w2fwrld]
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=131323#p131323:1w2fwrld said:
slabghost » Tue Sep 16, 2014 8:01 pm[/url]":1w2fwrld]
I use the ATF to clean the motor so I'd be more inclined to flush with ATF. Not sure what the capacity is at this point but I'm sure it's in the manual. With the drains at the very bottom I doubt there will be much if any remaining inside if pumped a time or two.

I didn't think I had any need to flush the engine, until I realized I did with the black oil after fresh change and decades of neglect this bike has seen. I was hoping to use the diesel because I already have gallons of it, where does a person find cheap atf in bulk rather than quarts?

I realize you're all saying I don't need to do it, but man this bike was so neglected I'm sure they've never even been serviced and have over 100k on them. If others found sludge then I'm sure I will too and like the engine it'll just keep contaminating new oil so it's either flush once or change several times...
Pour the diesel through them. I can't see how it could hurt.
 

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