Final Drive Ratios und interchangeability

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Smokey66

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HERE WE GO AGAIN!Heres the deal:I know that the 80-81 has a 3.091ratio and the 82(which I have)has a 3.100,but what about the ones from the 1000 and 1200 models?And will they even fit(Bolt-in)? Reason being,I want something longer than 3.091.I would also like to keep my 17 inch rear wheel.My bike runs right at 4000rpm at 60 mph.I`d like to get that down to about 3500.Too much to ask? :headscratch:
 
Check out the Goldwing differences spreadsheets in the Gallery gallery/album.php?album_id=274

According to these, you'd have to go with a '84 from a 1200.
They do look very similar but I don't know if it would bolt up.
 
There is a thread on this I read just recently. I can't find it just now or I'd post a link. I think the 83 1100 has the ratio you are looking for.
 
There is a wealth of information in the Gallery.
We also have many of the original equipment owners manuals which list the transmission and final drive ratio's in the last pages.

By taking just a few minutes to look through these manuals and spreadsheets all questions about gear ratios are answered.
Many many hours have been invested by fellow members and myself to gather this information, please make use of it whenever possible.

I'm still on the lookout for the rest of the 4 cylinder's owners manuals so if anyone has them please let me know so we can get them posted to the forums.
 
smokey you have the tallest final drive for the 1100s already ....honda started messing around with the motor to trans rduction on the 1100 its so different than the 1000 , that if you put a 1000 motor in your bike the rpm at 70 mph would be about 3500 .....my mongruel had this setup and was a great touring bike and still had lots of power.....

so with your motor you would have to go with a 1200 or 1500 final drive and try to graft it to your 1100 swingarm or try and put swingarm and finaldrive wheel an brake setup on your frame ....this is all very hard modifying and about as far as it gets from direct hook up

its easier to change the gearing on your bike by changing motors .....the 82 motor sounds about just the rpm you were looking for the 83 is even taller ......
 
Thanks for all the info!I was thinking/hoping maybe the drive-unit from a 1000 or earlier/later 1100 ,which would be a bolt-on,would provide the desired effect.I`d like to see an 1100 and 1200 unit side by side for compairison(anybody got some pics?);it might fit without to much hick-hack.I KNOW the 1500 is a different animal all together.I `m not shy when it comes to modification/fabrication and could easily graft a different swing-arm/ rear-drive from something else on her,but I want to keep the old girl looking original.I`ts not that the bike doesent feel comfortable at 4000rpm and above,but it just don`t feel right to me;A big comfortable touring bike with the motor buzzing like a saw.Take a ride on an Electra-Glide (or any tourer/cruzer built in the last 20years for that matter)and then ride your wing.......you`ll see what I mean.Maybe I`ll get over it...someday. :nea:
 
the 1200 and 1500 have different wheel gear as well and a ratio of 2.84 tats it they even use this ratio on the 1800....actualy theraly 1500 and 1200 final drives are quite the same with the same wheel gear ....pretty much have to go with 1200 or 1500 wheel tyre brake and swingarm setup , shocks maybe driveshaft shorten or lengthen to fit right ...ive seen the 1200 swingarm put on a 1000.....

i felt i was in your possition when i put the 1100 swingarm and finaldrive front forks wheels shocks on my 1000 .....it turned it into a different bike and would do the hyway thing with ease at about 3500 -3600 at 70mph .....it was alot of modifying but im glad i did it ...i think a 1200 finaldrive would put you where you want to go with rpm .....you could put the trans gears in from a 82-83 and come up with gearing like an 82 that would put you 70mph at 4000 rpm ....nothing easy
 
joedrum":1ffl6f4f said:
....nothing easy
Click to expand...

Unfortunately that's true.

I put the '83 gears into a '81 engine (the original engine had a damaged cylinder sleeve) and used the '81 final drive and 17 inch wheel. This put my highway rpm's at a good place, roughly 35-3800 at 70.
 
Thats probley what I`ll do;other gears/trans in my cases,that way it`ll still look original and my frame and motor numbers still match.I promised myself I`d keep this one original and not modify or customise it like I did the other 30 some odd bikes I`ve had/still have.Usually ended up compromising rideability for looks.But this one is my daily driver and will stay like it is(except for the gears and the taller windscheild and the extra gauges and the.........).
 
slabghost":1mugk98p said:
Sure gets hard to keep any bike stock. :builder:
Click to expand...
My bike is stock (technically), at least it is all Goldwing! :smilie_happy:

'81 brakes, forks, fenders, shelter, wiring harness, tail light assembly, ignition system, carbs, gas tank, radiator
'82 frame, wheels, rotors, cables, final drive, handlebars, mirrors, radiator deflectors, front foot pegs
'83 engine, trans, passenger foot pegs

Add ons:
Saddleman road sofa seat, Markland fork brace, Hondaline aftermarket removable bags, trunk and luggage rack, Vetter fairing and lowers, Sony radio, Infinity speakers
 
I have a 1981 standard with a Vetter Fairing . would just changing the rear gear to an 83 Asp make a difference in rpm and highway speed??? if so is it a direct bolt?
 
VA Rider":1nowzl88 said:
I have a 1981 standard with a Vetter Fairing . would just changing the rear gear to an 83 Asp make a difference in rpm and highway speed??? if so is it a direct bolt?
Click to expand...
Joe is correct. also, the '81 has taller wheels than the '83 which adds to the higher RPMs.
 

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