Gl 1200 question

[dan filipi]

Ohara » 2 minutes ago[/url]":2dq4r5oh]
Hi fellows, say is a 35 amp mini denso alternator strong enough to do the job on the aspencade?

35 amp is enough but i would go the 45 amp model as a minimum. Reason being is 35 will be working close to capacity and I believe having some to spare means the alternator won't have to work as hard and should last longer. I could be wrong and it doesn't matter but having more juice for other stuff is always good.

 

[Ansimp]

Original is only 20amp and if you convert to leds etc 35amp will be more than enough. Don't forget the higher the amperage output the more horsepower that is used. In a severely discharged state your are more likely to get belt slippage with a higher output alternator. :yes:

 

[dan filipi]

Ansimp » Today, 2:15 pm[/url]":1zdajkno]
Original is only 20amp and if you convert to leds etc 35amp will be more than enough. Don't forget the higher the amperage output the more horsepower that is used. In a severely discharged state your are more likely to get belt slippage with a higher output alternator. :yes:

Load on the engine will be the same at 20 amps driving a 45 amp alternator as it is driving a 35 amp alternator. Belt slip isn't caused by the alternator being 10 amps higher capacity. Tighten the belt or fix the alignment :smilie_happy:
Besides why limit yourself with a lower output alternator when a 45 is the same size shell.

 

[Ansimp]

But it will be full alternator output if battery is discharged, ever notice squeeling belts when a vehicle is first started!

 

[slabghost]

Yep! Found out my belt was loose again.

 

[dan filipi]

Ansimp » 11 minutes ago[/url]":1tj52ail]
But it will be full alternator output if battery is discharged, ever notice squeeling belts when a vehicle is first started!

That's not addressing the reason the belt is slipping even if the bike battery will accept that much charge on start up. The belt is not a regulator. Fix the belt.
If the battery was taking in the 145 amps my van alternator can produce, there wouldn't be any belt or battery left.

 

[Donpauli2]

99.9% of belt slipping is because it's too loose. Allowing slippage to continue will glaze it and slips more. If a belt is very tight and slips a wider pulley or a multi groove pulley will provide more grip


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[dan filipi]

Speaking from experience on my bike and running a 45 amp alternator....Twice I had to replace the regulator. First time it quit charging. Second time it started putting out over 15 volts. That second time the shop said the winding's smelt burned. This was after less than 20,000 miles on it so this is partly the reason I say to go much larger than needed if you have a choice. Higher capacity means it has more windings to handle the load. I've actually tried to find a 60 amp with the same small frame. No wonder the oldwing 20 amp stators burn up. It's never good to engineer anything electrical just marginal for the task. I've learned this by installing new and replacement commercial transformers along with various other problems that pop up.

Also need to be sure the internal fan is blowing across the windings. If not then it could be turning the wrong direction.
I reversed the "shark fins" on my 1100 fairing lowers to catch air and direct it into the alternator which helped a lot. Alternators get HOT.

 

[Ansimp]

Oldwings stators output 100% providing the revs are up their whole life. Alternators don't have that problem due to their regulators dropping output as required. I have fitted many aftermarket "upgrade" alternators in the marine industry and some high output units actually draw more power at low revs than they generate. I have had many cases where the alternator is too large for the engine and rev range ( not always possible to get correct ideal pulley ratios or cost effective) and have matched lower max output alternators that produce higher output at lower revs that don't constantly shred belts. I like your theory that bigger is better but their can be other trade offs that in many applications doesn't always make for the best outcome.

 

[Ohara]

More great information, thanks very much. Say Dan, did you manage to get a source for the 4inch pulleys? RGD in UK has a 3and 3/8 inch dia and a 4 inch dia that are close. (both may still require a spacer) I am undicided as to which dia use.

 

[dan filipi]

Ohara » Today, 3:13 am[/url]":30rl5h6w]
More great information, thanks very much. Say Dan, did you manage to get a source for the 4inch pulleys? RGD in UK has a 3and 3/8 inch dia and a 4 inch dia that are close. (both may still require a spacer) I am undicided as to which dia use.

Depending who you talk to, both those sizes will do fine

But seriously, I found a 2 to 1 speed ratio is best for the way I ride and the city I live in. That gives me good output at low rpm and idle, which you tend to do a lot of here in So Cal.

 

[Rednaxs60]

A 4 inch pulley off a '99 Prelude power steering pump works well and is inexpensive, paid $10.00 at the local wrecker for one. Did require a spacer as my pics show - three 1/8" thick washers and two bearings with 12 mm bores from Princess Auto. The most expensive part for the crank pulley was the new bolt because of the thread, cost approximately $15.00 dollars (live in Canada you know). Total for the crank pulley approximately $40.00 give or take.

Cheers

 

[Ohara]

Just an update, while gathering the items I need for the alt conversion, I have had the bike running several times. It will run until the temperature reaches 3 to 4 bars then it quits running and will not start until it cools for about an hour. Then it will star right up and run fine. Thanks to some information I got off this site I checked the pulse generators ohms when cool about 350 each once the bike quits running they show open. So I will be tracking down some pulse generators for my 86 Aspencade. Does anyone have a source for these as they are obsolete?

 

[slabghost]

Ebay has been where I search for most parts. Being north of the border you might try goldwingking. He may have some.

 

[Tom_Charlton]

Western Honda (Arizona) has been an extremely good (I didn't say cheap) source for GL1200 parts for me. "Obsolete" doesn't mean "not available". I had to replace the pulse generators on an 86I this fall and Western Honda had them here in a couple days.

 

[desertrefugee]

Ohara » Mon Nov 21, 2016 11:15 am[/url]":1rrgxi3e]
Just an update, while gathering the items I need for the alt conversion, I have had the bike running several times. It will run until the temperature reaches 3 to 4 bars then it quits running and will not start until it cools for about an hour. Then it will star right up and run fine. Thanks to some information I got off this site I checked the pulse generators ohms when cool about 350 each once the bike quits running they show open. So I will be tracking down some pulse generators for my 86 Aspencade. Does anyone have a source for these as they are obsolete?

Hmm. Interesting. Your first post to this thread makes me think this pulsar was bad when you bought the bike. In fact, it's likely the main reason the PO had it up for sale.

Western Honda IS a very good source for 4 cylinder Goldwing parts. Makes me REALLY glad they are a very short detour on my way home from work!

 

[Ansimp]

+1 on Western Honda, fair prices and excellent service. :salute:

 

[Ohara]

Thanks again for the information, looks like I am going shopping.

 

[Ohara]

Found a set on eBay thanks, and yes it is strange that both the stator and pulse generators are not working. Can this be related?

 

[Tom_Charlton]

Don't think the two are related. IMHO, I think the pulse generators break down due to age and possibly heat stress. 30 years is a long time for electronic components to continue working in a hot environment..

If cars lasted that long, I think you would see many electrical problems. My daughter had a 2008 Aveo that needed new coil packs about every 50,000 miles. The headlights on that car would burn out about once a year. 2 good reasons not to but another Aveo.