GL1100 Carbs

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chewy999

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Somersham Cambs
Hi there, got a 1980 GL1100 as a project, had to delay start due to house extension, but have an initial problem. It only fires on three cylinders! I have swapped sparkplugs, and I know there is a spark going to the dodgy cylinder, so I suspect there may be a problem with the carb serving that cylinder. Has anyone any thoughts on that? I have been advised by a mate to get it running before I go to far, and spend to much stripping it down.
Also, I know this is a basic question, but looked all over for confirmation, can anyone explain which carb is no. 1, 2 etc.

Hear from you soon

Jon
 
I'd guess a clogged carb not serving up fuel to that cylinder.
Need to open it up and take a look, clean and new seals if needed.

Cylinder numbering is (while sitting on the bike)

Left front- 2

Left rear- 4

Right front- 1

Right rear- 3
 
chewy999":1ijn4erh said:
Hi there, got a 1980 GL1100 as a project, had to delay start due to house extension, but have an initial problem. It only fires on three cylinders! I have swapped sparkplugs, and I know there is a spark going to the dodgy cylinder, so I suspect there may be a problem with the carb serving that cylinder. Has anyone any thoughts on that? I have been advised by a mate to get it running before I go to far, and spend to much stripping it down.
Also, I know this is a basic question, but looked all over for confirmation, can anyone explain which carb is no. 1, 2 etc.

Hear from you soon

Jon
It sounds like your first job will be to clean the carbs. As you are sitting on the bike. Left side front is #2 and rear is #4. Right side front is #1 and rear is #3. It is possible that one float might be stuck closed. Warning. The little towers holding the float hinge pin break easily. Do not tap on that pin to remove it. Clean one carb at a time and keep all the parts together to go back in the same carb you removed them from. If you run into any problems post them here an help will be along soon.
 
Thanks guys, the carb in doubt is no. 3. I had planned to strip the carbs down anyway, sure I can do that with all the stuff I've seen online, and get the tank cleaned out.
Jon
 
dont take your advice ..if this is a project bike and unknown ...id have the false tank off seat off ,,,side cover off ....the gas tank probably rusty and need s to be cleaned ...if it was me and its running on three cylinders id check the compression first ...could be valve not seating good ...i just had that happening to me on a motor ....id have the timing covers off also to have access to the crank bolt .....if it shows good compression then the carb rack needs to come off as unit ....im sure its here where the problem will be .....there are flow test to the carbs that can be done with carbs off and also a flow stop test also ....if the clylinder is showing dead most of time its here where something is usealy wrong ...either no flow or wont stop flow ...it takes that kind of problem to stop a cylinder completely mostly ...be nice if its this only as its not hard to fix flow usaly

anyway a project is a project ...not a scatch and niff type thing ...i have an 80 1100 standard i just got ...it was sitting outside since 2004 it is stuck in form on the bike ...its thrity yrs old ....oldwings are great bike but need to be gone though totaly on a unknown bike so you know it well :builder: :mrgreen:
 
Done a compression test, spark plugs out, throttle wide open, all readings about 160, looking at the specs for a thirty year old bike, thought that was acceptable. Are the tests you mention achievable for someone at home, or is it a specialist job? Going to get tank cleaned out, new fuel lines and filter as well.
Jon
 
im no specialist ....im broke with no otherway ....but have been at this approach long enough that some think im a special something ...im not sure what tho....

yes these things i talked about can be done at home with moderate tool supply and some other tools added when needed for bike upkeep....the trick here is to be thurough and slow and ever checking at first as to not do something stupid ...its better to wait on something as to tear up something ....theres plenty of help here on this forum and we try to be a great resorce to all that need help ...theres a bank of knowledge here to pull from ...nobody cares about your machanical abilities at first you like me will gain quickly with the fellowship here

personaly ive done things to oldwings i wouldnt have dreamed of ....this forum now has me like a guru gone mad with the projects im doing now :hihihi:
 
I'm at that stage too, Chewy. I had to replace a bent valve and valve seals, but my bike had been sitting for at least 7 years with gas in it, so the carbs are quite a mess. I tried to rush it and do a quick clean so I could take it on a trip last summer. That was a waste of time. It ran, but it surely wasn't trip-worthy. Like Joe says, go slow and thoroughly. My accelerator pump check valves were so gummed up, it took a long time just to get them functioning. There is a wealth of information on this site and some really knowledgeable guys.
Welcome!
 
Thanks for the advice,guys. I just received Randakk's carb kit, so here begins the next stage of restoration. Randy no longer supplies a fuel filter with the kit, so I am debating whether to buy his new permanent filter or just stick with an auto parts store special.
(edit) Sorry, this might not make sense. I got this posted in the wrong thread re: carbs.
 
the flow test mention above is no more than ...when you get the carbs out of the bike and horns off ...take the drain plugs out of the bowls ....hook to a temp tank ..i have one from a small lawn mower tank with a hose about 4ft long that slip over the common oldwing feed line to the carb rack ....then lift this temp tank up over the carbs laying on a bench and see if the gas gose to the drains about the same on all four.....if that test passes then put the drain plugs back in and again lift the temp up an secure it there ....the float valves sould stop this flow when the bowls fill ...id leave it this way at least an hr to see if any gas runs out of the carbs ....the flow and stop test ....
 
well if the 79 1000 is what your asking about the 1100 carbs make a great mod on the 79 old wing ...the 1100 carbs are slightly smaller than the 79 1000 carbs ...but are much better in operation the the 79 carbs ....if i had both id diffinitly try the 1100 carbs on it ....good working 1100 carbs are realy sweet on 1000s ...78-79 especialy ...1100 carbs work the best where 78-79 cams are made for power .....i have this setup on my 77 1000 its smooth as silk even down low in the rpm ...cant wait to get some more ride time in as this bike hasnt been far yet
 
I agree with Joe drum,

Oldwing's Have a certain Cool about them that can only be experienced, they are The MOST addicting substance Known to man.

When you are thinking of restoring one of them, take my 83' GL1100 for instance, It is 29 years Old. This one the engine was Frozen & so were the Brakes, it wouldn't Stop or Go.

The Date code on my tires when i Bought my 83' was about 15 years old, they did not look real bad, but not worth risking your life over, Yes I also replaced the Valve Stems, another $2.00 worth of parts to lose your life over.

It was a real POS.

There are a lot of systems on a Oldwing, that probably are in dis-repair, due to NO Maintenance/lack of knowledge.

How many Prior Owners did my bike have prior to me.

Were the Prior Owners Knowledgeable of G-Oldwing repair?

Did they fix/repair like a factory trained (Come on guys give the factory tech's the benefit of the doubt) Tech. would?

Was Maintenance performed on a regular schedule.

My 88' GL1500 during the test ride, had leaky Forks, that drained down on to the Front Brakes/Caliper's, and there was No fork oil in the forks, it had all leaked out, and No front Brakes.

When i test rode it i hit the brakes the bike did not want to stop, and the front end Dove down so low in the front I thought I was going to go over the front of the bike.

On a Old wing do not trust anything and Check/Rebuild Important systems first.
Brakes.
I would rebuild the complete Brake system, before i even got on the bike. At least you know it will stop before you take that Irresistible test ride. This includes Brake hoses, they can look good but be dry rotted inside.

Get in your mind that OldBikes are going to need most systems rebuilt.

Brakes, Frozen Brakes, Better include Tires to Brakes
Carbs., My 83' GL1100 Carbs were Really Dirty Inside
Cooling system, Was EXTREMELY Very Dirty
Cables, were Garbage
Oil filter Housing pressure relief/anti back up valve was missing.
Head Gaskets were blown
Water pump needed replacement
Thermostat replacement
Engine was still Over heating
Starter needed repair/rebuild
Repair Vacuum Advance
Replaced Stator
Rebuild Front Forks

Hope i did not scare you, but, it is always good to come back safely from a nice ride.

Dont get me wrong this 83' GL1100 was transformed from Big, Harry, POS, into a Nice Old Wing that I hope is reliable, and along the way you will with the help of these Fine Oldwing Mechanics.
Will also turn you into a Old wing mechanic and your bike into a Great running bike that you will be able to work on.
 
With all that crap said, wow last guy was pretty windy.

The 1100 Carbs are nice, They have a Long throttle Pull almost like a Micro throttle adjustment, very smooth.

While 1200 carbs are shorter pull and more abrupt, in the throttle increments, still smooth, but not as small of an adjustment as the 1100 carbs.

Not only that but the 1100 Carb's are Great looking carbs, when all polished up, and they are more plentiful.

I also like the 1100 carbs better than the 1000 carbs, when I rebuilt the last 1000 carbs I had a jet that broke on one, it rendered this set of carbs useless, Bought another set, the Metal was Very soft inside all the carbs, Like a really thick peanut butter, Never saw that before, took that set back, the third set/time was a charm from a 1975' Bike in great shape, as they were going back on to a 75' engine into a 78' gl1000 bike.

Carbs should be soaked over night, I spray my carbs with Brake cleaner, let it sit for a hour, then to loose up everything up spray all parts & jets with liberal amounts of PB.

I would love to try a set of 1100 carbs on a 79' GL10.
 
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